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Hi all. Newbe here. I'm buying a new Ariens 28" Deluxe thrower #921022. I would like to know what is the break-in procedure, engine, belts? This is my first new blower. My old 1971 Hanns-Eclipes died last winter when we had tons of snow. Everyone here on the east coast had no blowers in stock, what a winter! Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
 

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shryp, thank you very much for the owners manual. When they deliver the throw, I should know how to use it. lol!
 

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After much deliberation I bought a Ariens Deluxe 24", which is on its way. I would love to take a look at the manual for it (or any of the Deluxe models), but the link above no longer works. Does anyone have a copy, or another link that works, or an Serial I can use to download it from the Ariens website? I am very excited to get it...this will be my first snowblower, too.
 

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Aren't we all?
 

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I was a bit surprised to see the B&S recommendation about not running the engine at full load until it's done 5 - 10 hrs. I generally believed snow blowers/throwers are designed to run at full throttle (only) :confused:

B&S said:
What are the recommended break-in procedures for my engine?
In general, there is no special engine operation procedure required during the break-in period. There are, however 2 major points to consider when using an air cooled engine for the first time:

Do not operate the engine at full load during the first 5-10 hours of operation.

Change the oil after the first 5-10 hours of use.

In the past, the engine break-in period was very important to the overall life and durability or the engine. The break-in period required has changed over the years with improved piston ring materials and designs. The break-in period now (5-10 hours) is short in comparison with that of engines of the past. Aluminum cylinder bore engine piston rings break-in faster than those used on case iron cylinder bores.

Break-in period is accomplished at any speed above idle and may occur faster if the engine is operated at varying loads and speeds. However, break-in occurs at an acceptable rate if the engine is operated at slightly less than top no-load speed with or without a moderate load. Combustion pressures at this speed are sufficiently high to cause piston rings to conform to the cylinder wall. It is recommended that an engine not be operated continuously at full load during the initial hours of operation. This can lead to permanent deformation of the cylinder bore.

It is very important to perform the initial break-in oil change, however. After the first 5-10 hours of operation, the oil should be changed to remove asperities that have broken from the bearings of the engine components and cylinder wall. Break-in can be performed using the recommended grades of standard or synthetic oil. Which switching to synthetic oil, the most cost effective method would be to use our standard oil for the break-in procedure, and if desired, use synthetic oil afterwards. For more information on oil types, please visit our Oil Recommendations page.
 

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I was a bit surprised to see the B&S recommendation about not running the engine at full load until it's done 5 - 10 hrs. I generally believed snow blowers/throwers are designed to run at full throttle (only) :confused:
They are designed to run full-throttle..but only during "regular" use..which in the case of newer Briggs engines, does not apply to the first 5-10 hours! ;)
In cases like this, always believe the manufacturer..they made the engine, they know best.

Scot
 

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Scot, thanks. So do i run it at 75% throttle? Is that what they are suggesting or should I actually be varying engine speed as I go along?
 

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I think full load and full throttle are 2 different things. I would consider full load as running the engine hard enough to almost stall it.
 

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I just bought my Honda recently and performed the break-in very carefully. Based on what I learned, I would do things slightly differently.

A). First hour, run engine on idle.

B). Change engine oil.

C). Second hour, run engine at 50%.

D). Change engine oil.

E). Third hour, run engine on idle.

F). Fourth hour, run engine at 50%.

G). Change oil for final time until next season.

Note: Based on the amount of non-ferrous and ferrous particles discovered during waste oil inspection, I would change the oil sooner than later. I did my oil changes at four hours and at six hours.
 

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Guys, thanks for the tips and pointers. I may have the opportunity to run it for the first time this week :) (fingers crossed)
 

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After much deliberation I bought a Ariens Deluxe 24", which is on its way. I would love to take a look at the manual for it (or any of the Deluxe models), but the link above no longer works. Does anyone have a copy, or another link that works, or an Serial I can use to download it from the Ariens website? I am very excited to get it...this will be my first snowblower, too.
Follow this link to the Ariens manual page.

Ariens Order Owners Manuals

Put in 921024 as the model number and 104500 as the serial number for the 2014-2015 blower. You will then see the manuals
 

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I think full load and full throttle are 2 different things. I would consider full load as running the engine hard enough to almost stall it.
This.

Full load and full throttle are different. In fact, many of the newer Briggs and Stratton snow engines have a fixed speed throttle, so the engine is running at full throttle all the time. I believe they did away with adjustable throttles for emissions reasons.
 

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i would recommend using it for light loads, or letting it run 75% throttle for 5 hours in the diveway and changing the oil
 

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You can also park it outside and just let it run varying the speed every so often to build up the hours on the engine so if you need to push it hard it would be ready.

What happened to the Hahn :( ?? Craigslist, trade in, future project :confused:
 
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