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Discussion Starter #1
Inherited a Gilson 26" 5hp blower from my grandfather. It was seized, I'm assuming he ran it low on oil. I just managed to get it un-seized and I am surprised at the condition of the bore.

I do need to pull the sump cover and inspect the cam and crank for rust because I drained more water out of the unit than oil. Currently filled with ATF to help lube things up. Happy that it's pulling over.


I found a few ebay rebuild kits that I hope will work but I am unsure if they are correct?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-5HP-5-horse-power-for-Briggs-and-Stratton-rebuild-010-Bore-Rod-Valves/141229924420?hash=item20e1f5a044:g:7J4AAMXQQJBQ4kXS:rk:5:pf:1&frcectupt=true

Can this engine be bored out? Or is the cylinder like a chainsaw; a chrome/nickle coating? I do not see any sort of "sleeve" after removing the head?

Engine number casting 130202
I was going to toss a Princess Auto engine on it but now that I see the bore I think it's worth further investigating

PA engine is $226 + monkeying around with the carb since that adjustable needle is no longer available from Mr. Waterloo

If I can punch out this block I think it's worth it or just use the stock size
 

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PA engine is your best bet. They work very well right out of the box.
 

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That engine can be bored over by 10, 20 or 30 thousandths. I'd be thorough in tallying up the parts including gaskets and inspect carefully for any concealed damage.



Your desire to stay original may be the tipping point.


One trade-off may be ending up with a non snow ready engine. If you have warm dry storage that can dry the unit between storms this is less of an issue.



It's not a trivial modification but if it's a solid unit the extra work to get an 8 HP on there will result in a much better performer.


Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have to tarp the blower after I’m finished using it. I don’t want to park it inside the shed because of the wood floor.

Glad to see you post up Spectrum. I have been using your site for the past year or so when my grandfather asked if I wanted this blower.

Which 8hp are you reviewing to? A Chonda snow ready 8hp? I am currently downsizing from a 10/32 Sears (Roper) snowblower. In my opinion the 10hp b&S barely had the grunt to move a full bucket of snow.

Between the pain to get it out of the backyard, summer storage and around vehicles I think I’ll be much happier
 

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I have to tarp the blower after I’m finished using it. I don’t want to park it inside the shed because of the wood floor.

Glad to see you post up Spectrum. I have been using your site for the past year or so when my grandfather asked if I wanted this blower.

Which 8hp are you reviewing to? A Chonda snow ready 8hp? I am currently downsizing from a 10/32 Sears (Roper) snowblower. In my opinion the 10hp b&S barely had the grunt to move a full bucket of snow.

Between the pain to get it out of the backyard, summer storage and around vehicles I think I’ll be much happier

A snow engine has a lot of little features other than a heater box and no muffler. Things like a visor over the recoil and a secondary shield around the clutch. The engine is bound to have snow and water on it when you are done and as that melts it will get into places where freezing makes bad stuff happen. These are things that will need special attention if the engine cannot dry off between events.


I park my snowy tractor in a ply wood floored shed (1/2 fir CDX) over 2X6 and it dries up surprisingly well with a little sun warmth. I must have at least a decade on that unfinished floor with no deterioration. The tractor only sees occasional snow use I'll admit. It's an intermittent situation that causes little harm.



It sounds like you have a UniTrol so you want to pay attention to that threaded hole in the camshaft boss where the traction idler and belt retainer are mounted. A good used L head would be a genuine solution.



On my re-powering page there is a nice example of a B&S InteK Snow on a UniTrol.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I think the 5hp is done for, tore it down today and the crank, rod and crankshaft end supports are all badly scored.
I could probably clean up the crank with emery cloth but I don't know how long my backyard/basement repair will last. The flywheel side of the crank is scored the most.

Because the idler for the main belt is attached to the oil sump cover with that 3/4" thread, does someone have a pic of a predator mount on an Gilson or Montgomery?
 

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