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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have an Ariens Sno-Thro Model 910955 probably from the 1970's with a bad internal governor. The repair shop did not want to repair it. I have some time now to try it if it makes sense. I have moderate skills and some good hand tools. If I fail, I can get a new one. I got kind of attached to the old one.

So, is there a good video that shows how to do it? I understand that some bolts are hard to remove especially in such an old unit. Where are these? If I can get these out maybe the rest is possible.

I would appreciate any advice that you have.

Thanks
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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This should be a pretty simple operation, but you do need to open the engine case. The gov "gear" as it is typically called is a resin (nylon?) gear with the governor flyweights attached to it that sits adjacent to the cam, and which is replaced as a single part. I don't personnally have any vids, but any overhaul/teardown video should show what you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This should be a pretty simple operation, but you do need to open the engine case. The gov "gear" as it is typically called is a resin (nylon?) gear with the governor flyweights attached to it that sits adjacent to the cam, and which is replaced as a single part. I don't personnally have any vids, but any overhaul/teardown video should show what you need.
I looked for a overhaul/teardown video but I did not find one that opened the area where the governor is. Can you find one for me?
 

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As Posted Above, You have to split the case to get at it. The Governor is bolted to the inside of the case. I may have one laying around somewhere if you get that far.
 
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Hello,

I have an Ariens Sno-Thro Model 910955 probably from the 1970's with a bad internal governor. The repair shop did not want to repair it. I have some time now to try it if it makes sense. I have moderate skills and some good hand tools. If I fail, I can get a new one. I got kind of attached to the old one.

So, is there a good video that shows how to do it? I understand that some bolts are hard to remove especially in such an old unit. Where are these? If I can get these out maybe the rest is possible.

I would appreciate any advice that you have.

Thanks
I don't have a solution for you but what I don't get is how difficult it would be for a repair shop to open up an engine and repair a bad governor, after all this should be their bread and butter unless it is too time consuming and too involved for a repair shop to refuse the fix.
I went through the same experience with my Ariens (2013 model) that had a bad governor, the repair shop owner also did not want to go near it, I have never done this type of repair myself but you'd think it's an easy task for a "pro" shop but I guess I was wrong.
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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I don't have a solution for you but what I don't get is how difficult it would be for a repair shop to open up an engine and repair a bad governor, after all this should be their bread and butter unless it is too time consuming and too involved for a repair shop to refuse the fix.
I went through the same experience with my Ariens (2013 model) that had a bad governor, the repair shop owner also did not want to go near it, I have never done this type of repair myself but you'd think it's an easy task for a "pro" shop but I guess I was wrong.
No, I think they are just lazy, and use it as an excuse to try to ram something new down your throat that you may not need . . . gov replacement is generally pretty trivial . . .
 

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A shop by me said that because Tecumseh is out of business and parts are so hard to find, that it's just too much of a crap shoot.

They got $300 deep into a repair, found out that a part they needed was no longer available & they ended up eating the repair. Customer just left it and bought a new, more powerful engine for $369 + tax. So when shops say it's just not worth it, I can understand what they mean.

I am in that exact situation right now. 13 hp Tecumseh started over revving badly. I think I turned it off in time. But I looked into a Briggs replacement engine......$1300 - $2000 & no one had one in stock. I bought a 15.8 hp engine brand new for $429.99 + tax & a 2 year complete replacement warranty for $100. So I completely understand the it's just not worth our time attitude.
 

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I see lots of Tec gov spools out there in about the $10 price range . . . not buying the "not worth it BS" (still).

But, definitely check for the parts before starting the job . . . Even if something else is wrong, you are out less than $20, and can likely sell the part to someone else . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi,

I began the replacement or repair project with the first step. I drained the oil. It was a milky gray color. I had changed the oil before the winter. I had put gasoline into the tank but did not shut off the valve. I found the gas tank empty. So, my guess is that the gasoline leaked into the oil. Before I get much further into it, do I have another problem to look at aside from me trying to remember to shut off the gas when I am not using it?

The video was good and sort of funny.

Thanks.
 

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If this is a flatheat, that should be impossible - the carbs on these engines sit lower than the intake port, and any fuel leaking past the needle would just run out the intake. Milky is also typically moisture, not oil . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I went down to the repair shop. He saw that the governor was doing what it was supposed to do. He reiterated that the engine was racing. I did not get much of an answer as to what I should try next.

I am buying a new gasket from him to close up the engine. Do I need any gasket adhesive between the gasket and the assembly?

I am thinking of looking at the carburetor and possibly replacing it. There must be a logical answer.

Thanks all.
 
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