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find a new shop the guy is a dope
better yet watch a few vids carbs are easy to change yourself
govenors are easy to adjust watch a video
would not want that guy putting the cover back on
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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Basically, the throttle lever puts tension on the gov link that tries to pull the throttle open. The gov pulls against it to try to pull it closed. The balance between the two is the governed speed. Sooo, if the gov is working, then there is either too much tension (wrong spring, or hooked in the wrong place, or ???), the linkage is wrong (pushing the throttle open too far), or perhaps it is not adjusted correctly. (I don't recall if you did a gov setup or not, and too lazy at the moment to reread the thread . . . )
 

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I see lots of Tec gov spools out there in about the $10 price range . . . not buying the "not worth it BS" (still).

But, definitely check for the parts before starting the job . . . Even if something else is wrong, you are out less than $20, and can likely sell the part to someone else . . .

You don't see how it's not worth it for a shop to repair an old flathead?
How long do you figure it would take?
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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You don't see how it's not worth it for a shop to repair an old flathead?
How long do you figure it would take?
For a bad gov on an otherwise good engine? maybe an hour - possibly less (depending on if on a machine or not), unless the tech is a moron . . . Ultimately, unmound/remount/pulleys are a wash, si ce that gets done whether repair or replace.

Age is irrelevant - condition is what matters! An L head with low hours and light wear can be expected to have the same (and likely better) life than a typical Chinese turd . . . a Honda GX should outlive it, but then again, the cost difference becomes huge then . . . Myself, if something is serviceable, I almost always repair instead of replace . . .

Open case
remove old gear and any loose fragments.
clean case
place new gear
close case

Nothing needs to come off other than the cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Another update:

I closed the engine, mounted the engine on the snow thrower, and put the essential parts back on. I put a wire through the orifices in the two adjustment holes and reset them. Added oil and gasoline.

It would not start unless I put some gasolier in the spark plug hole. Then at best it ran doe maybe 15 seconds then raced than died.

I am thinking either rebuild the carb or replace, I am leaning towards replacing.
 

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For a bad gov on an otherwise good engine? maybe an hour - possibly less (depending on if on a machine or not), unless the tech is a moron . . . Ultimately, unmound/remount/pulleys are a wash, si ce that gets done whether repair or replace.

Age is irrelevant - condition is what matters! An L head with low hours and light wear can be expected to have the same (and likely better) life than a typical Chinese turd . . . a Honda GX should outlive it, but then again, the cost difference becomes huge then . . . Myself, if something is serviceable, I almost always repair instead of replace . . .

Open case
remove old gear and any loose fragments.
clean case
place new gear
close case

Nothing needs to come off other than the cover.
Age is very relevant.
You called someone that's trying to run a business lazy because he didn't want to waste his time on an old Tecumseh.

An hour in most places is $100-120. Are you going to pay him $100 plus parts MINIMUM etc to fix that? Maybe it's cheaper in other areas but that's what it runs where I am.

And then there's the fun of when things go wrong which is highly likely on something that age. It's not a profitable job that doesn't make the guy lazy.


I'd bet a Chinese clone with ball bearings and cast iron sleeve to outlive the Tecumseh by a long shot. I Feel you're really really far off on that comment.
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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Age is very relevant.
You called someone that's trying to run a business lazy because he didn't want to waste his time on an old Tecumseh.

An hour in most places is $100-120. Are you going to pay him $100 plus parts MINIMUM etc to fix that? Maybe it's cheaper in other areas but that's what it runs where I am.

And then there's the fun of when things go wrong which is highly likely on something that age. It's not a profitable job that doesn't make the guy lazy.


I'd bet a Chinese clone with ball bearings and cast iron sleeve to outlive the Tecumseh by a long shot. I Feel you're really really far off on that comment.
When you have a Chinese turd that is over 50 years with no issues, get back to me. That's where my Tecs are now, and I would certainly spend $100 in labo and about $20 in parts to service a gov before I would even begin to consider the aforementioned turd.

(For that matter, I was fed the same BS on the Honda GX on my mower . . . about $75 in parts and a few hours of my time for a repair/rebuild and I was $100's ahead of a replacement . . .

Oh, and what, in the fantasy world you live is, wears with age whe not being run? Condition is EVERYTHING!
 

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When you have a Chinese turd that is over 50 years with no issues, get back to me. That's where my Tecs are now, and I would certainly spend $100 in labo and about $20 in parts to service a gov before I would even begin to consider the aforementioned turd.

(For that matter, I was fed the same BS on the Honda GX on my mower . . . about $75 in parts and a few hours of my time for a repair/rebuild and I was $100's ahead of a replacement . . .

Oh, and what, in the fantasy world you live is, wears with age whe not being run? Condition is EVERYTHING!
Amazing.

In the same post you essentially say age matters and then you then say age doesn't matter.
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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Amazing.

In the same post you essentially say age matters and then you then say age doesn't matter.
Allow me to suggest reading lessons . . . I have never intended to inply or suggest that age matters with regard to determining suitability of an engine for repair/rebuild, only condition . . .

The simple point that you seem to repeatedly miss is that the Chinese IP theft engines have not existed in the marketplace .ong enough to have a good feel for failure rate "in the big picture". . . and to spell it out clearly, this also related to condition, which relates to use, which have a very small relationship to age (since there is no predictability of hours run per year.) So, you check condition - the ONLY indicator of actual wear . . .

But then again, nitpicking and introducing irrelevancies has become a typical debate tactic these days for folks that don't have a supportable argument . . . I get it, you were traumatized by a Tec as a child or something, and have an irrational hatred of them . . .
 

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Allow me to suggest reading lessons . . . I have never intended to inply or suggest that age matters with regard to determining suitability of an engine for repair/rebuild, only condition . . .

The simple point that you seem to repeatedly miss is that the Chinese IP theft engines have not existed in the marketplace .ong enough to have a good feel for failure rate "in the big picture". . . and to spell it out clearly, this also related to condition, which relates to use, which have a very small relationship to age (since there is no predictability of hours run per year.) So, you check condition - the ONLY indicator of actual wear . . .

But then again, nitpicking and introducing irrelevancies has become a typical debate topic these days for folks that don't have a supportable argument . . . I get it, you were traumatized by a Tec as a child or something, and have an irrational hatred of them . . .
I don't even know what to say at this point.
You attack my ability to read and attack me multiple times and then comment about people nitpicking an introducing irrelevancies.

Please, enjoy the rest of your day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Now back to my Ariens, if that is okay.

I took pictures of my linkages to make sure that they were positioned correctly and not causing my problems and to document where they are before I order a new carburetor. Does anyone see a problem with the way they are positioned?

Also, I was looking on Amazon for the carburetor and found when I asked if it would work for me I was told that that one was only for use with a primer. My Sno-Thro does not have one. Can anyone recommend a carburetor that would work for me?

Thank you.

Peace.
 

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It appears your linkages are hooked up properly, I attached some photos of my H50 below.

Can you make sure your governor linkage rod is not hitting the arm on the carb mounting bracket? If it is, that will cause issues.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Gas



The spring is on the outer hole on my machine.
Tire Wheel Bicycle tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle



Tire Wheel Crankset Motor vehicle Automotive tire


Automotive tire Wood Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive wheel system
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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I don't even know what to say at this point.
You attack my ability to read and attack me multiple times and then comment about people nitpicking an introducing irrelevancies.

Please, enjoy the rest of your day.
@ChrisJ: You clearly either missed or ignored my point, and started on things that have no relevance to this thread, so what do you expect me to think? And nobody was attacked - evidence based observations are facts, not attacks (well, perhaps to those other than snowflakes, but I digress). My mistake appears to be having attempted an intelligent debate with an unequipped person, so buh-bye! (And sorry for sidetracking this thread to all others!)
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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To the OP, I think I asked this earlier, but the response may have been lost . . . Have you checked the gov linkage setup IE the positiom of the gov arm on the shaft coming out of the block? That can also easy result in an overrev situation. I also forget (sorry!), but does the throttle control have any effect on speed at all? IE, can you reduce it to idle, but it overrevs when you bring the contol up, or?? Also, if you push the throttle plate/linkage closed by hand, can you reduce speed? If so, I doubt a carb replacement will do much, but if you cannot, then it may well help.

Also, note the metal rod with the "U" shaped bend in Ziggy's second photo. This is the speed adjustment point on these engines. After setting the gov link, you bend this open or closed to set the top governed speed.

I can't see anything that stands out as wrong on your linkages from your photos, but they are showing up verry blurry here, so it is really hard to be certain. Any chance you can attach some higher res images?
 

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I blocked the guy - I'm done!
I certainly hope so... we're on very thin ice here and I don't like thin ice. :cool:

Just a note:

SBF Fightnight is every third Saturday beginning at 7pm, out behind the SBF bar. Cover charge is $20 and includes one Bourbon, one Scotch and one beer. Consumption is required to participate in Fightnight.

Fighting within SBF itself may/will lead to suspension of bar privileges.

Now, let us speak no more of this (not a suggestion).

Thank you, the Management.

Sorry OP... back to you(r) Governor. 🍻
 
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