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Discussion Starter #1
Can you replace Single stage auger belting with baler belting? By removing the auger belting, laying it on the baler belt, marking, cutting, drilling the holes. Though more labor, for the price of some of the replacements such as Honda, it seems cheaper. It may even be longer lasting as you can get thicker material. Does anyone know what the hardness is of the original belting?
 

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If the drive belt is a multi groove flat V belt it will not track or work properly and the splice will not work.
 

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I think he's referring to the rubber on the paddles, not the drive belt.

If the baler material is as durable as the OEM material it should work just fine


.
 

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Is this the sort of drive where the belt needs to run free until tensioned to engage the auger? If so then I've found problems using different belts as the friction was too great, meaning the belt snatched when the drive was supposed to be disengaged unless it was set so slack that then it wouldn't properly engage. If the idea is to save paying for original spares, then a suitable formulation belt of the correct size should be be a lot cheaper. For example for my blower the auger belt is a standard size A39 (section A, 39" outside), but it needs to be one designed for mowers or similar. Price for a branded Kevlar belt is around 1/3 of the cost of the manufacturer's spare part.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm addressing the auger belting commonly called paddles, not the drive belts.
 
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