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I am on my 4th Carburetor for my Ariens 5524 with a Tecumseh engine. I’m in Denver at 5800 elevation.

The engine works OK for a time (with a new Carb). But over time it needs more and more choke, until to keep running you need to push the red button. This sequence has happened on 2 of the carbs. The others would run for 10 minutes and then just quit, loaded or not.
I have removed the jet at the bottom of the bowl and cleaned it out and verified it was not blocked, but this did not affect the operation. I cleaned the spark plug (a bit of carbon), not wet, to no avail. In the early days I tried to “rebuild the existing carburetor cleaning with seafoam to no avail.
Replacing the carb (Thank you amazon) works, but not for too many runs (3 storms worth).
As in Please help.
David (new Member)
 

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Remove and clean the gas tank, replace the fuel line, though I don't use a fuel filter you may want to consider that. Drain your fuel container and clean out. I would put all the fuel in a 2l clear soda container to check for clarity, color, and water.
 

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Remove and clean the gas tank, replace the fuel line, though I don't use a fuel filter you may want to consider that. Drain your fuel container and clean out. I would put all the fuel in a 2l clear soda container to check for clarity, color, and water.

All that. I'd even go as far as to remove the tank and clean it up. Put dish detergent in it, shake it around, empty and rinse it good, let it dry.


By any chance is it a metal tank that may have flaking inside? If so, either get a new tank, or you'll have to coat the inside of they one you have. Having coated tanks, it a messy, expensive ordeal. Could cost you $65, which I suspect is more than the cost of the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The last one lasted 3 snows. (IE 3 uses).
There was no evidence of anything in the carburetor jets or bowl though.
I will try the tank cleanout and inspection.
Thanks much
I had run out of ideas.

David
 

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Note that there are two small passages in the side (though the threads) of the main jet body, not just the hole the needle goes through. Very easy to miss, but if they clog, nothing works right . . . . Likely you have three perfectly good carbs on the shelf, and a need to refine your cleaning technique a wee bit.


I had a similar issue with reclogging, and ended up taking my tank off, flushing, airing out, blowing out, etc. until it was reliable again. New fuel line is mandatory as well - fine particles can flake off an aging line and clog those small passages instantly!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks
I washed out the gas tank and hose with soap and water . (I will get a new hose soon when the next carburetor arrives). And yes there was dirt, even a small leaf in the tank. I was very hopeful...

When reassembled it did the same thing, IE start in full choke only, but then stop.

As there was dirt in the tank, it may be in the carb now as well. I had assumed the tank or carb would have a filter. Silly me. I will look for an inline gas filter to add. We are supposed to get 4 to 7 inches of snow tomorrow. Sigh.


From another comment, yes I had seen the small jet holes on the side of the main jet body and verified they were open.
And again, thanks for all the help. I was out of ideas. It looks like I am back to blaming the carburetor.

David
 

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Gas filter is a good idea. If it's a metal tank, I'd be pricing a new one. If it's not too expensive, that's what I'd be doing. The tanks I coated, the materials cost $65 just to do one. Now, you can re-use two of the three chemicals you need (the cleaner and etcher) but have to buy new "paint" to do more. It's an epoxy system.



I don't know WHY they use metal tanks anymore.
 

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Gas filter is a good idea. ...
I don't know WHY they use metal tanks anymore.
As I mentioned in another thread today, make sure you get an appropriate fuel filter, for engines without fuel pumps. This Briggs filter is 150 microns, and suitable for a gravity-fed blower.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004RB1A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think the paper-element filters are too-tight for engines without fuel pumps.

As for why metal tanks are being used so much now, I'm guessing cost. Injection molds are quite expensive. Maybe the equipment to form metal tanks is cheaper. I do think it's kind of unfortunate, it's re-introducing concerns that haven't been much of a factor for a while.
 

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As I mentioned in another thread today, make sure you get an appropriate fuel filter, for engines without fuel pumps. This Briggs filter is 150 microns, and suitable for a gravity-fed blower.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004RB1A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think the paper-element filters are too-tight for engines without fuel pumps.

As for why metal tanks are being used so much now, I'm guessing cost. Injection molds are quite expensive. Maybe the equipment to form metal tanks is cheaper. I do think it's kind of unfortunate, it's re-introducing concerns that haven't been much of a factor for a while.

Ya think that if they give you a metal tank, they'd at least put a screen at the petcock in the tank, if they even give you a petcock. Generators are built that way. And in addition, generators typically come with fuel filters.
 

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Thanks
I washed out the gas tank and hose with soap and water . (I will get a new hose soon when the next carburetor arrives). And yes there was dirt, even a small leaf in the tank. I was very hopeful...

When reassembled it did the same thing, IE start in full choke only, but then stop.

As there was dirt in the tank, it may be in the carb now as well. I had assumed the tank or carb would have a filter. Silly me. I will look for an inline gas filter to add. We are supposed to get 4 to 7 inches of snow tomorrow. Sigh.


From another comment, yes I had seen the small jet holes on the side of the main jet body and verified they were open.
And again, thanks for all the help. I was out of ideas. It looks like I am back to blaming the carburetor.

David
That's pretty much what mine did with dirt. Running it gradually plugs the small passages, and then sometimes even just sloshin when no running will move enough crap for it to be able to do that again. Clean it end to end all at once, and you should be good.
 

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As I mentioned in another thread today, make sure you get an appropriate fuel filter, for engines without fuel pumps. This Briggs filter is 150 microns, and suitable for a gravity-fed blower.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004RB1A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think the paper-element filters are too-tight for engines without fuel pumps.

As for why metal tanks are being used so much now, I'm guessing cost. Injection molds are quite expensive. Maybe the equipment to form metal tanks is cheaper. I do think it's kind of unfortunate, it's re-introducing concerns that haven't been much of a factor for a while.
I would think dies to stamp metal ones would be similarly expensive, and in either case, both should have a long life span. I gotta wonder if it isn't some fire safety thing, since plastic tanks will melt and release the fuel much more easily.
 

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Fire is an interesting point. Though in either case, perhaps the rubber fuel lines would give you trouble? I don't know much about metal stamping, hopefully someone can chime in.

An injection mold needs to form the shape, but also come together very precisely at the edges, to keep the plastic from trying to "leak" through little gaps (creating flash in the molded part).

Perhaps the metal stampings have this edge formed by another process (maybe a flat punch first, to cut the shape?), maybe the exact edges are a bit less critical?

I'd like to know more about why tanks are moving towards metal, hopefully someone can help enlighten us.
 

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Fuel lines would not result in a catastrophic dump of the tank all at once . . . . but yes, much fire and there really isn't any way to keep that genie fully in the bottle. Might also be that an old plastic tank got brittle and broke, someone got burned, sued, and ta-da! Back to metal . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That's pretty much what mine did with dirt. Running it gradually plugs the small passages, and then sometimes even just sloshin when no running will move enough crap for it to be able to do that again. Clean it end to end all at once, and you should be good.
The dirt corresponds to most of my symptoms. The last gasp of this carburetor changed with sloshing before it gave up entirely.
I appreciate all the help. I think you guys have resolved my dilemma. Thanks again.
David
 
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