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Even engine oil is better than nothing but a dedicated liquid or spray chain lube will stick better and might be better able to penetrate.
With a spray you want to make sure to protect the rubber friction wheel and the plate that drives it from the spray.
Can of chain lube will usually run anywhere from $5-$10 depending on where and what you buy.

Just two examples.



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Chain lubes consist of a sticky grease in solution with a solvent 'carrier'. You spray the stuff on, it seeps into all the nooks and crannies of the chain, and the 'carrier' evaporates, leaving the lubricant behind. Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD40 are NOT lubricants, and will wash away the grease, leaving the steel exposed to rust.
 

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Bel-Ray super clean is a good chain lube.
 

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Chain lubes consist of a sticky grease in solution with a solvent 'carrier'. You spray the stuff on, it seeps into all the nooks and crannies of the chain, and the 'carrier' evaporates, leaving the lubricant behind. Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD40 are NOT lubricants, and will wash away the grease, leaving the steel exposed to rust.
i use Blaster and Liquid Wrench CHAIN and CABLE LUBE. These are specifically chain and cable lubes. If you say these are no good then I'll change over to something you recommend.

Always trying to learn about better products. Some chain lubes are super expensive though and I work on a lot of machines.
 

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wrenchit, your saying that Blaster Chain lube isn't a chain lube
That is not the same product as 'PB Blaster' is, that is a totally different product that is meant for chains. The standard 'PB Blaster' is not meant for chains although it will work for a very short time to free up a rusted/frozen chain, it will also wash out any grease that is in between the pins and rollers, the 'Critical' part of the chain that needs the grease and lubricants.
Honda offers an excellent chain lube that contains 'Moly' and 'PTFE' or 'Teflon' that does not fling off of a chain, it also penetrates down into the pins and rollers very well and dries to a 'Tacky' coating.
Most good motorcycle chain lubricants/oils are of the aerosol spray on type that are specifically made for chains that penetrate in and dry to a tacky coating so they do not fling off. They are water resistant, meant for the severe applications a motorcycle chain encounters and are long lasting.
A good chain lubricant could cost $10-15-20 a can. Bel-Ray makes a good chain lube also as does many other companies, normally available at motorcycle shops.
 

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I have a 50/50 mix of ATF and 10W30 in my hand held oiler.
I apply it sparingly and dab off any excess with a paper towel.

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I like watching Project Farm videos on youtube. sometimes the most expensive stuff is not the best.

I used to use expensive penetrating oil that cost $20 a can and found out thru his video that Liquid Wrench penetrating oil at $4 a can came out on top.

Same can be said for many shop materials like carburetor cleaner, chain and cable lubes , and more.
 

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As mentioned above, things have changed and one of the ones I've been caught on is WD40. The original WD40 isn't really a lubricant but it's somehow become the "Kleenex" of around the home and garage lubes for a lot of people. Original WD40 was great for what it was designed for, "W"ater "D"isplacement. It was great for drying out ignition components.
But now they make a whole array of products so when someone says WD40 I always think they're talking about the original stuff and I'm too quick to say that's not the stuff to use. I'm pretty sure WD40 does make a specific chain lube.
I like using the original WD40 for cleaning tools. Quick spray and a wipe (y)

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wrenchit, your saying that Blaster Chain lube isn't a chain lube
i use Blaster and Liquid Wrench CHAIN and CABLE LUBE. These are specifically chain and cable lubes. If you say these are no good then I'll change over to something you recommend.
No guys, I misunderstood the term "Blaster". Everyone I hang out with uses that for PB Blaster - a penetrating juice like Kroil, etc. I have no problem with anything sold as chain lube until told otherwise. As said, penetrating oils will act as a solvent, cleaning out the grease deep in the chain where it is needed most.

Sorry for the confusion.
I like watching Project Farm videos on youtube. sometimes the most expensive stuff is not the best.
I used to use expensive penetrating oil that cost $20 a can and found out thru his video that Liquid Wrench penetrating oil at $4 a can came out on top.
The best penetrating oil is the one that works for you...just like the best tradesman is the guy who solved your problem after 3 other guys eliminated most of the possibliites. I've read a number of testimonials from guys swearing Brand X is the best, and come to the conclusion that they all will work eventually. Which one works best on a given problem is a guess. I've read that the top performer is a home brew of 50:50 ATF and Acetone. And here are more brands than I knew existed. Absent a double blind study that includes a statistically valid sample, all these 'reviews' are like those on Amazon - half come from paid shills, the others are anecdotal and worthless. I have Kroil, PB and WD on my shelf and I use them in rotation. All work for me.
As mentioned above, things have changed and one of the ones I've been caught on is WD40.
Yup, things have changed. For me, WD screwed the pooch so to speak. WD will always be known to most people as WD40 - they have an uphill battle to broaden knowledge of their product line.
 

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I've been using used motor oil for chainsaw bar lube, dirt bike chain rust preventative, bicycle chain lubricant, and anywhere else exposed to the elements. Why waste money by spending the resource or disposing of something which still has value?

Last time I had the gear train exposed on the Ariens, you guessed it, a liberal application of used motor oil.
 

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My Ariens is three years old and I've never lubed the chain, thank you.
As they say in my ancestral homeland, "Silly Buggers"... i.e. "There'll be a serious accident sooner or later if people don't stop playing silly buggers." All chains need lubing fairly frequently... A quality motorcycle chain lube is the dope.
 
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All chains need lubing fairly frequently...
Yes and no... O-ring chains on street and dirt motorcycles are lubed upon assembly and have little tiny O-rings to seal the weather out and the lubrication in. These are lubricated-for-life chains. However, the external metal surfaces still need oil as a rust preventative. The O-ring chains still wear out. But, they certainly last a ton longer than old-school no-O-ring chains. There is a slight down-side... The O-rings add just a bit of mechanical friction.

My chain driven street bike has over 100k miles on the clock. It has a Scott Olier which occasionally drips ATF on the chain when the engine is running. The drip is solely for corrosion prevention and dirt removal.
 

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Oh, and if curious as to the lifespan of a street bike O-ring chain, the drive sprocket (the one on the engine output shaft) is good for around 10k miles. The O-ring chain and driven sprocket usually see two drive sprockets before total component refresh.
 

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...frequent applications of Honda chain lube.
Chain lubrication is just as much ritual and ideology as engine oil skirmish dust ups. My preference is to go the inexpensive route and use what's already on-hand. It seems to work for me and I assume the rituals for others work for them.

The short answer to the question which has killed hundreds of thousands of man-lives of Internet time?

"What oil and lube to use?" Use it often... ;-)
 
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