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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I've had a Predator 212cc repower on my 1968 Ariens 10M6D for a few years. It's got the common stalling issue after a few minutes. I've tried the discussed solutions, including rejet and drilling out the breather system. I'm going to throw in the towel and get another engine.

Rather than get another Predator 212cc, I am looking at this LCT Storm King 208 cc

Before I pull the trigger, is there anything I need to consider? Hole pattern, pulley fit, relocation of the chute rod. I vaguely recall I had to do that when I put the predator on initially.

Thanks.
 

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If you can find a 254cc LCT it uses the exact same footprint to the 208cc so a little extra power if you can find one at a good price
 

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@ash,


Strange, I also put a 99.00 Predator on my 10M6 years ago ... still working great, and fires right up ... no problems at all. I never had to re-jet or do any drilling on it. I never heard of the Predator having a stalling issue. That sure sounds like bad gas, clogged system, or maybe left untreated gas to long in it. Shame.
 

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I agree with oneacer, my predator on my pressure washer runs great. I picked up the adjustable main jet from a fella on ebay (he isn't selling any right now) and adjusted it and it works great.


As far as engine goes.. 15C107-0040 11.5 Briggs And Stratton Snow Engine 3/4" x 2-5/16" Formerly 8HP from the auction site ebay for about $184 shipped. Has the same crank height as the predator and same mounting pattern and it's a bit more oomph!


Some engines DO NOT HAVE A THROTTLE so be aware of that. I prefer a throttle because I do not like to start a cold engine and have it immediately go wide open.



Not sure what LCT models would work but you need to make sure the crankshaft is 3/4" with a keyway and that it's about 4" from the bottom of the engine base to the center of the crank. Much over the B&S 1150 sized engine and the crank sits another inch higher and you'd need new longer belts and possibly have to modify the belt guard. You don't want to just remove the guard because you'll get snow on the belts and they'll sit and spin.


So yes I fully agree if you're going to spend the money then get a bigger engine! And the predator line won't work because the cranks are 1" on the engines above the 6.5.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@ash,


Strange, I also put a 99.00 Predator on my 10M6 years ago ... still working great, and fires right up ... no problems at all. I never had to re-jet or do any drilling on it. I never heard of the Predator having a stalling issue. That sure sounds like bad gas, clogged system, or maybe left untreated gas to long in it. Shame.
I am experiencing issues similar to this thread: Stalling thread for the 212

It certainly would not surprise me if there is bad gas, clogs, going on too. It does start relatively easy but just dies out after 15 minutes. It might not be a bad idea to empty the gas and start with some fresh gas. Early on in its life, it ran ok. It is 4 years old now.

I am interested in the LCT because it is seems purpose built for snow throwers and winter use.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not sure what LCT models would work but you need to make sure the crankshaft is 3/4" with a keyway and that it's about 4" from the bottom of the engine base to the center of the crank.
Just FYI for anyone interested. The vendor, small engine suppliers, has a link to drawings of the LCT engines. The LCT 254cc looks to have the crank at 106mm (4.17") from the base to the center.
 

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Yup that's the LCT equivalent to the B&S model, at least in regards to displacement. You can also go directly to the manufacturer as that's what the engine supplier did, https://lctusa.com/types/winter-engines/



The 254cc one is good but the 291cc engine is too tall.


The much better deal is the B&S on ebay for about $185 shipped with an electric start. The price is so low because it's a prior model design, you can compare the air cover to the ones on small engine suppliers and see the top edge is more rounded and the key is angled up vs straight out. And the cheaper one doesn't have a fuel shut off but Briggs & Stratton 698180 Fuel Shut-Off Valve For Quantum Engines and 625-675 Series Engines on amazon is $12 so..
 

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LCT makes I think just 2 size engine blocks, Small is the 136cc to the 254cc the larger is the 291cc to the 414 or 420 (not sure why there are two so close) But the smaller are drop on replacements for each other, I have a Sno-Tek that I got with a locked up engine and found a Husqvana labeled LCT 254cc and it dropped right on and pulley's bolted right up with no mods, I think the engine swap too 45 minutes taking my time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The much better deal is the B&S on ebay for about $185 shipped with an electric start.
Price already going up
$217.92 shipped + tax

** just bought it anyway.** My predator is off the unit and I got the pulley off no problem, so just waiting now for this bad boy. I hope the chute locator rod fits ok. I already moved it down for the Predator, so hopefully that will clear this.
 

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Shop must be running out of old stock. Hit up amazon for the fuel shut off while you're at it. Pull the red throttle handle off (friction fit) and take off those two screws and the panel folds to the right. Two gas tank screws in front and two in back. I was able to line everything up and just cut the fuel line on the bend and slot in the fuel shut off.
 

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Price already going up
$217.92 shipped + tax

** just bought it anyway.** My predator is off the unit and I got the pulley off no problem, so just waiting now for this bad boy. I hope the chute locator rod fits ok. I already moved it down for the Predator, so hopefully that will clear this.



Wow, when I posted my message I checked ebay and the price was as stated! That was a quick jump in price!


I was looking at another one for my pressure washer, and looking if I could put an airfilter on it or not. With the higher price I'll just find a bigger engine as the crank height doesn't matter, just the bolt hole position around the crank.
 

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One thing to check for that almost nobody ever checks is the valve clearance.
After running it for around 15 minutes, it could be getting the valve stems hot enough to expand in length and cause the clearance to become tight and not allow a valve to close all the way, thus causing it to leak, and stall the engine when its warm.
It might act like its running out of gas once it gets hot. Just a little thing to check if nothing else seems to help it, and that is a common problem on those LCT and predator engines because the valve faces wear out rather quickly, causing tight valve clearance, stem to rocker arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Just a note for anyone doing a similar re-power using Briggs and Stratton 1150 255cc engine on an Airens 10M6d.

The lever for belt tension his the starter. It was either remove the starter or relocate the lever more forward by an inch. I removed the started held on by two torx T40 bolts.
 

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Hi All,

I've had a Predator 212cc repower on my 1968 Ariens 10M6D for a few years. It's got the common stalling issue after a few minutes. I've tried the discussed solutions, including rejet and drilling out the breather system. I'm going to throw in the towel and get another engine.

Rather than get another Predator 212cc, I am looking at this LCT Storm King 208 cc

Before I pull the trigger, is there anything I need to consider? Hole pattern, pulley fit, relocation of the chute rod. I vaguely recall I had to do that when I put the predator on initially.

Thanks.

Just wondering...

Which 212 Predator do you have - the version with the shiny smooth style valve cover or the dull cast style valve cover?

 
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