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Discussion Starter #1
Changing the oil is a real pain as the drain spout is not very long (right above the wheel with no clearance) and I can barely get a funnel under it. What a mess. Do you all have any tricks, tips or suggestions. Does sno-tek sell a type of extender? Would it pose a problem if it extended out over the wheel. I went to the hardware store and looked a threaded piping but they did not sell metric (believe it is 10m - 1.25 pitch).
Thanks
 

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i bent a piece of sheet metal in a " u " shape, its long enough to clear the body and goes under the drain pipe by 1/2 inch. any old piece of tape holds it in place while the oil drains
 

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someone had mentioned making a funel out of tin foil. sounded easy and fool proof. then you crumble the foil and throw it away.
 

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The wheel might be the kind that comes off really easy. It takes about one minute. I use a block of wood under the machine to hold it up. This works well on my Ariens. Hope it works for you.

Ken
 

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Took care of my problem for a couple bucks.. Rest the pan on the tire. Worked fine.
 

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There are inexpensive suction devices that can help keep these messes under control. One typically finds these at marine supply stores. I've even seen cheapie versions for a couple of dollars at Hardware Fright.
 

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I would have thought it to be NPT as that's what is used on most any B&S Tech.
My 28 Deluxe has the drain tube extension comeing off the back off the engine instead of the side and was one of the major selling points for me.
Sorry not any help but maybe Ariens can be of some help.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for your replies. I think the sheet metal/tin foil idea might work.
I think there is a design flaw or machine was not assembled correctly. There is an unused hole to the left of where the motor bolts to the body. If that hole was used the engine would be moved to the left and the oil drain spout would align up with the V that has been notched out of the body, which would allow space for a funnel.
Keep the ideas coming.
 

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I picked up a really narrow flexible funnel from Walmart's auto department that works perfectly. It's red, only about an inch and a half wide at the top, and about 8 inches long when fully extended. It can be bent to hold its shape (the plastic is ribbed like the bendable part of a drinking straw) so I put the oil pan behind the blower and run the funnel between the blower's wheel and main body. I have the Snotek 20 so I don't have a high-mounted fill tube and the same funnel works perfectly for putting the new oil in as well. I think it was only a buck or so.
 

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Thanks for your replies. I think the sheet metal/tin foil idea might work.
I think there is a design flaw or machine was not assembled correctly. There is an unused hole to the left of where the motor bolts to the body. If that hole was used the engine would be moved to the left and the oil drain spout would align up with the V that has been notched out of the body, which would allow space for a funnel.
Keep the ideas coming.
Your blower should have an engine made by LCT. So far, they are proving to be a good engines. Although, the LCTs that I have seen, have their drain hole on the side opposite of the cylinder. This puts it by the right wheel. The Tecumseh's and I think Briggs have them piped to the rear. Piped to the rear is sure easier to drain.

There could be a rare to slim chance, that the chassis sheet metal was punched wrong before it was bent up. I would highly doubt it, but any thing is possible.

I know it is a hassle, but if you could post some pictures, they might generate some answers or least some ideas.

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I picked up a really narrow flexible funnel from Walmart's auto department that works perfectly. It's red, only about an inch and a half wide at the top, and about 8 inches long when fully extended. It can be bent to hold its shape (the plastic is ribbed like the bendable part of a drinking straw) so I put the oil pan behind the blower and run the funnel between the blower's wheel and main body. I have the Snotek 20 so I don't have a high-mounted fill tube and the same funnel works perfectly for putting the new oil in as well. I think it was only a buck or so.
thanks- will try to get one for both draining and filling as I too have a low mounted fill tube - Someone here (MKD, kudoos to him) suggested I add oil by drilling a hole in the oil bottle cap, insert flexible tubing and fill it that way - IT WORKS.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Your blower should have an engine made by LCT. So far, they are proving to be a good engines. Although, the LCTs that I have seen, have their drain hole on the side opposite of the cylinder. This puts it by the right wheel. The Tecumseh's and I think Briggs have them piped to the rear. Piped to the rear is sure easier to drain.

There could be a rare to slim chance, that the chassis sheet metal was punched wrong before it was bent up. I would highly doubt it, but any thing is possible.

I know it is a hassle, but if you could post some pictures, they might generate some answers or least some ideas.

Ken
Yup - my old craftsman had a rear draining spout - was a breeze to change the oil - just tip back on the handles and all the oil drained out in 2 minutes -
I will try to take a few pics this weekend of the sno-tek.
 

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Your blower should have an engine made by LCT. So far, they are proving to be a good engines. Although, the LCTs that I have seen, have their drain hole on the side opposite of the cylinder. This puts it by the right wheel. The Tecumseh's and I think Briggs have them piped to the rear. Piped to the rear is sure easier to drain.

Ken
Post #9 are pics of my Ariens Axe 254cc engine with rear piped oil drain as it came from Ariens.
 

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Post #9 are pics of my Ariens Axe 254cc engine with rear piped oil drain as it came from Ariens.
That's great, I must not have not seen the LCT like yours. Of all the LCTs that I have seen (which is not every one), they where out the side. Much easier to drain out the back. The 414cc and the 291cc are out the side. The OPs must be too.

Ken
 

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There is Form-A-Funnel which is a flexible/formable rubbery plastic panel (formafunnel.com) but at NAPA it was over 20 bucks.

A simple fix is to use the empty plastic oil bottle. Take a utility knife and cut out one of the wider sides of the bottle leaving the neck intact. Depending on the location and amount of clearance, you may or may not want to cut off the bottom of the bottle. This will leave you with a wide but shallow rectangular funnel that is low profile to slide into a tight space but with a good spout to collect the used oil.

If you have a real tight space, instead of cutting out the wide side, cut out one of the narrow sides of the bottle. You can always cut it down to reduce the remaining "height" of your funnel. This gives you a narrow width funnel and you can vary the height.

It's hard to beat the price.
 
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