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Discussion Starter #1
At new member introduction we got on the topic of the interplay (adjustment) of the scraper bar, auger depth and skid shoes.

Attached is a photo of my new driveway in general (I like it) and the one area I suspect may have contours that could give me fits.
 

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Driveway

Buford

I like it, very elegant. I'm having a hard time telling, did you sand between the joints or not?

If you want 2 cents worth of thoughts. It does not appear you have any humps, only dips. Assuming that is correct, I'd take your blower out and sit it in various spots around the drive and see what the differences are aound the drive. I'd go so far as to intentionally put a skid in one of the worst joints and see how that measures. Based on what you get for results, that would be my determining factor in setting the gap.

In blowing, I'd go one step further, I'd blow on the diagonal if I could. That would keep the dropping of one side or the other at a minimum due to less likelyhood of a skid falling into a joint.

Just some thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you HCBPH, I do love my finished driveway. I did none of the work myself. I had a very professional crew and they did an excellent job. (Jason Blake Landscaping for those near Pittsburgh who might be interested.)

They also made the walls for me and a patio area behind the house about the same size as the driveway. I can post patio photos if anyone is interested? Jason used some polymeric sand that is 100% crushed (angular not round by nature) and has an additive that hardens with water. If only one damaged paver needs to removed they may just get groups of 4-5 pavers precisely because the sand hardens and sticks like cement. So far it has been perfect at keeping out insects and preventing grass. They must have used a pallet load at $25 per bag at my house.

If this makes any sense: One always starts building a wall at the lowest spot then builds up evenly row by row. My lowest spot along the wall is in the middle of the curve. One can't start there. So Jason dug extra deep beside the steps so that that would be the deepest spot. Where the wall meets the steps I bet I have 5 tiers of block below grade.

I could get a 30" piece of wood trim and do some quick checking for dips and humps. That would be easier than wheeling out the snow blower.

I can see the benefit of a diagonal pattern of attack but my initial reaction was that there is no way to blow on the diagonal because of the walls on both sides. My snow cab turns a normal size snow blower in to crew cab long bed 3/4 ton pickup.

My old pattern on asphalt was down and back twice following the tall wall. Then once I had that turn around room (4x24") I would start at the top near the steps and go straight across working from top to bottom, blowing forward only in one direction of travel.

Until this morning I assumed I could just clear one path down the middle and work back both sides from the middle. It is most efficient to blow in both directions if possible. I like your idea: clean on a diagonal even better. I will try a lot of ideas until I figure it out. The prevailing winds come from the direction of the tall wall toward the low wall. So throwing snow on top of the tall wall is often blowing into the wind.

One could over analyze the hump/dip thing. That may be what forums do best and maybe what this forum does best when we have no snow. (joke, I did ask for help, thank you for the help) Does it make sense to adjust your shoes for just one spot? Why not just dig the tiny little spot with a shovel if it is that bad? I have to dig out the steps anyway?

I picked up a brochure at my borough zoning office, after I had the custom railing made and installed. The rules for railings are much like those for baby cribs. Must be child proof, with verticals spacing of "at least this" but "no more than that". I wanted a railing I could shovel/push snow through so don't turn me in to the official UNICEF railing sheriff.

Thank you for the 2 cents, your check is in the mail. (smile) Oh, I did install the official Ariens non-abrasive shoes and spaced them 1/8" lower than the scraper. That might help?
 
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