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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After the first reply (thank you vangasman) I realize I only have 2 questions:
  1. 1) What is the extra lead (w/ white nylon end) out of the new coil? I figure it fits some other engine (the part lists that this coil fits several motors) and I plan to just put it out of the way.
  2. 2) And I will simply cut the two trigger leads off the old coil and connect them to the new female connectors from the new coil (si I need not expose where the wires clip)
And thank you ahead of time...
========ORIGINAL POST BELOW =============
The Model # 247.886940 - Is this the correct number to identify it?

This is my neighbor's blower, but I have used it last year.
  1. It's always started with a few pulls, It has electric start (works well - I used it in diagnosing the problem)
  2. Last Friday, first start of year, it would not start although it sure seemed like it wanted to, both using rope and then electric start. I used ether.
  3. Found no spark, using original and another spark plug,
  4. Saw nothing amiss in the kill switch/key.
DID RESEARCH! I searched this forum and You Tube!

Bought a new coil from Amazon. Under $20 and the construction is outstanding. I used to own a car repair shop, so I have some sense of quality. For $20! Although instructions would have been good.

I brought the blower to my garage and dug in.-
  • Could not remove control panel, although I disconnected the primer tube. I could not get the knob on the speed control loose!
  • But I could get to 4 bolts holding rope and cover assembly. Removed, unscrewed coil.


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And now I've run into problems.
  • DO I HAVE TO DISMANTLE THE HOUSINGS TO ACCESS WHERE THE 2 SMALL WIRES PLUG INTO?
    • Or can i splice?
    • I want to cut both trigger wires on the old coil, add a male spade connector, and plug into the beautiful female plugs on the 2 wires in the new coil. And if it doesn't work, I can remove more housings and run the 2 wires correctly.
  • WHAT IS THE "VACUUM LINE"
    • The old coil has what looks like a car vac line, but it's plugged up an inch from the end (I tested w/ an icepick), and I don't think it had been connected to anything.
    • the new coil hss a nylon fitting at the end that looks like it could fit onto something.
  • ANY TRICK TO PULLING SPARK PLUG CAP OFF WIRE? Just pull, twist, or ?
And hey, big thanks to everyone of you who reads this!

If my pictures are not adequate, ask me to shoot what you'd like to see.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The vacuum hose you speak of appears to be the spark plug wire.
I am such a dope! Thank you.
I pulled the spark plug cap off and then pulled the wire through to make more room. And then I saw the extra lead from the new coil and got confused, thinking that the old coil had a similar thing.
Thank you!
 

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I'd avoid cutting and splicing unless you've isolated the fault to the coil itself through continuity or voltage testing. Otherwise a mouse might've chewed a wire behind the housing (assuming that's even possible, I don't know this model blower at all) and you'd do all this work for nothing. No idea what that white plug is
 

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After the first reply (thank you vangasman) I realize I only have 2 questions:
  1. 1) What is the extra lead (w/ white nylon end) out of the new coil? I figure it fits some other engine (the part lists that this coil fits several motors) and I plan to just put it out of the way.
  2. 2) And I will simply cut the two trigger leads off the old coil and connect them to the new female connectors from the new coil (si I need not expose where the wires clip)
My references are the RED arrows:)

1. It is the kill switch for the throttle arm/linkage and visible in your picture here:

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2. As Mentioned by others before, splicing defeats the purpose of replacing the item especially if you have no verification it is solely the coil itself and not the wiring to and from it causing your no spark condition. It is literally plug and play.
This plugs to the back of the key switch on the carb cover shroud.


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