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I have my dad's old ~1999 Craftsman snowblower that I rescued from going to the junkyard in 2014.

Model #: 536.886540
Code: 321502661
Engine: Tecumseh HS50

I got the engine running like new but now the auger gear is stripped. I'm trying to remove the augers but they're rusted on tight.

I've tried all the techniques I saw on here: soaking them in Deep Creep multiple days from the ends and through the shear pin holes and banging them out, using the pullers in the pics, borrowed from Autozone but they don't fit great.

I tried electrolysis on one side but that didn't help (see setup in pic).

I tried the 2x4 method but that has just cut grooves in my 2x4. I even tried prying it off against the impeller shaft but that just bent the auger.

I don't want to give up but I am at a loss as to what I can do. Any help is appreciated!


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+1 on the heat.. lots and lots of heat. Donyboy has some great vids.
 
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Oxy Acetylene torch using a two long pipe wrenches on each side wiggling back and forth. Any auto shop may help you. On occasion I've gone to my local community college technical, a high school auto shop may help. It's a learning experience for the students.
 
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Hang in there with the Heat and penetrating oil. At a minimum, use Mapp gas; propane isn't hot enough.

Try Kroil, Liquid Wrench, PB blaster or a homemade concoction of acetone/ATF (50/50).

(deep creep is not a penetrating oil... it's seafoam in aerosol form).
 

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Hang in there with the Heat and penetrating oil. At a minimum, use Mapp gas; propane isn't hot enough.

Try Kroil, Liquid Wrench, PB blaster or a homemade concoction of acetone/ATF (50/50).

(deep creep is not a penetrating oil... it's seafoam in aerosol form).
A Lot of what I've used in the past along with a hydraulic press. Put it on end, heat and use penetrant, rap it some with a big hammer and try pressure using the hydraulic press. May use something cold at times to heat shock it too. Biggest thing is attempting to break the bond between the auger rakes and the auger shaft
Another thing I've heard to work on the steel parts is electrolysis. Big thing is don't immerse it to the point of getting the auger gearcase wet as that could lead to other problems.

I've put out a pdf on how I've done it in the past and gotten rusted on auger rakes off.
 

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Thanks for all the tips. I don't have access to an oxyacetalyne torch but good suggestion on talking to a car shop. I did hear you need at least MAPP gas. Will this Benzo torch in the pic be enough?

That's interesting on deep creep. I had some and saw this video so I figured it should be good. I think I'll still get some Liquid Wrench because it performs even better.


I have seen those Donyboy videos - he's great. I was hoping not to have to mangle the auger shaft like he did.

I might try to fashion a puller like I saw on here. Seem like that method should be effective.
 

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A Lot of what I've used in the past along with a hydraulic press. Put it on end, heat and use penetrant, rap it some with a big hammer and try pressure using the hydraulic press. May use something cold at times to heat shock it too. Biggest thing is attempting to break the bond between the auger rakes and the auger shaft
Another thing I've heard to work on the steel parts is electrolysis. Big thing is don't immerse it to the point of getting the auger gearcase wet as that could lead to other problems.

I've put out a pdf on how I've done it in the past and gotten rusted on auger rakes off.
If you would send me the pdf I would love to take a look at that! My email is [email protected]
 

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He mentions using a 12" blunt shaft in the air hammer, so it might have been a piece of metal he had lying around...maybe some sort of drift? Too bad there weren't any pics of what he was describing.
 
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MAPP is significantly less heat than oxy acet. I've even had problems with oxy acet, you can give it a try. Not only does it not heat fast enough, nor hot enough, but because it is not hot enough, out cools faster.

Thanks for all the tips. I don't have access to an oxyacetalyne torch but good suggestion on talking to a car shop. I did hear you need at least MAPP gas. Will this Benzo torch in the pic be enough?

That's interesting on deep creep. I had some and saw this video so I figured it should be good. I think I'll still get some Liquid Wrench because it performs even better.

https://youtu.be/st8dkGzJWtg

I have seen those Donyboy videos - he's great. I was hoping not to have to mangle the auger shaft like he did.

I might try to fashion a puller like I saw on here. Seem like that method should be effective.
 
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That's interesting on deep creep. I had some and saw this video so I figured it should be good. I think I'll still get some Liquid Wrench because it performs even better.
Seafoam deep creep actually performed pretty well in that comparative study! I've only used it for dissolving carbon and varnish deposits.
 

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+1 oxyacetylene torch and a air hammer.

I just rehabbed an old simplicity 860. Augers and impellers were rusted solid on the shafts. It took ALOT of heat and a air hammer.

You may need to bite the bullet and go to auto repair shop to get it apart.

I drilled a 1/4” hole a 1/4” deep in the center of the auger shaft to keep my air hammer from walking and from mushrooming the end of the shaft then propped it up securely heated until cherry red and air hammered the shaft down through the auger. Rinse and repeat.
 

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Wow, you've definitely been thorough so far! I think I've seen people talk about using the air hammer from the side, along the auger shaft, as well. Beating on it along the auger tube.

You could also maybe try a cutoff wheel on a Dremel, angle grinder, etc. Maybe cut slits along the length of the auger tube (don't cut into the auger shaft itself). I'd think perhaps 2 slots max, 180 degrees apart, in the same area. But starting with 1 slit would be safer.

The idea would be to let the tube expand a bit, so it can decompress from the rust that's mashing the auger tube & auger shaft together currently.

But don't do anything too close to the shear pins. That's where the torque transfers into the auger tube. You don't want to weaken the tube too much.

I've never tried this, I'm more thinking out loud. One other benefit would be that you could apply penetrating oil at each slit, which would let you lubricate much more of the auger shaft. Heck, just drilled holes would allow minor oiling at multiple locations.
 
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