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Discussion Starter #1
As promised here is the restoration of my Drift Breaker 536.882702. Unfortunately this one is a little on the rusty side.

I bought this guy from a small engine repair person just east of Pittsburgh Penn and had it shipped by Fastenal to Danbury, Ct. I have deconstructed it and have ordered all parts that I think I will need. The plan is to replace all known bad parts and try it out-then tear it all apart and paint it.

Parts ordered:
Flange bearing 3/4 inch for the axle UCF 204-12 Ebay
Flange bearing 1 inch for the auger SARFT205-16 1" Ebay
B&S Cable for the Chute 78059MA
1630RS Bearing for the auger drive shaft.
2 sprockets Martin brand 41BS14 1 Ebay for the 3rd stage drive chain. Mine are shot and I cut the welds and removed them from the auger and top drift breaker.
NOS Piston rings 34866A
Head gasket
Engine side cover gasket

I have inspected the Transmission mounts and they look great and are tight.

I the auger tines are rusted to the front gear case shafts and I can't get them apart. I don't want to heat them because I don't want to burn the seals in the gear case. I have penetrating oil on them now. Any recommendations for getting them apart is welcome.

The Bearing for the Auger drive shaft had seized and screwed up the drive shaft which I will have to Mig weld and file down back to 3/4"
 

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If those augers are like my Sears/Murray, the shafts on the gearbox, they are stubs about 4 or 5" long. You can tap them all around as much as you can with a small hammer enough to slightly expand them a bit to loosen them enough to start working them off, along with the penetrating oil or that other concoction, transmission fluid and I think acetone. That might help.
Sid
 

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Welcome sockfeet!

Unfortunately I'm afraid you're going to need alot of heat on those auger rakes...and patience.

I've had luck going back-and-forth using heat/penetrant (I like acetone + ATF) and a homemade electrolysis tank.

You'll then need to decide if you're going to push (shot press) or pull (puller) on the auger shafts...maybe both.

It looks like someone has already taken a crack at trying to remove them:
 

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Wow...that is an ambitious project!..If it were me....I'd paint while I was restoring and assemble it only once.......come on...have some self confidence!
 

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If those augers are like my Sears/Murray, the shafts on the gearbox, they are stubs about 4 or 5" long. You can tap them all around as much as you can with a small hammer enough to slightly expand them a bit to loosen them enough to start working them off, along with the penetrating oil or that other concoction, transmission fluid and I think acetone. That might help.
Sid
Good call Sid! That is indeed a stub-axle. I guess the good news is that there's less axle inside of the rake.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I get that theory of restoring but I want to feel it out and see if the engine is even worth bothering with. If the engine is even slightly suspect, I am going to put a new one on. The Sprockets are going to be the challenge as well as the auger tines.

I am on the hunt for another 10 Hp 32" drift breaker for a friend as well. Please let me know if you see any more of these out there. I don't have any problem shipping them distances. The new snow blowers are such garbage, I don't care if this takes me 100 hours and $1000 to restore.
 

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Welcome sockfeet!

Unfortunately I'm afraid you're going to need alot of heat on those auger rakes...and patience.

I've had luck going back-and-forth using heat/penetrant (I like acetone + ATF) and a homemade electrolysis tank.

You'll then need to decide if you're going to push (shot press) or pull (puller) on the auger shafts...maybe both.

It looks like someone has already taken a crack at trying to remove them:
There was a bolt in where the shear pin would go and it broke when I tried to get it out. I have since drilled it out. I have used the map gas to heat up the auger and sprayed oil every where.
 

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I've restored a 536.882700 blower that was in really sad condition when I got it in the past. It's a sound structure, very well built machine but totally abused when I got it. I documented what I did to disassemble it and rebuild it, it was one really sad case when I bought it. In fact I bought it for the electric starter and planned to part it out, but decided to rebuild it instead. There was virtually no area in this blower or engine that I didn't touch, everything was in really sad (rusty or broken) state when I got it but it turned out well in the end. Even the engine was salvageable when I got done, and it's unbelievable how bad it looked when I initially got it.

The last digit of the model number apparently depends on whether the unit came with an electric starter or not when purchased from what I can tell.

I do have a doc on the machine as I went through it if you're interested in a copy along with a doc on what I do to get auger rakes that are rusted onto the auger shaft off. I have them both in pdf and doc format (the machine rebuild along with one on getting rusted auger rakes off). If interested, send me a pm with your email address and I can send you a copy of each of them if interested.

I have to admit getting the auger rakes off can be a problem. typically I use a combination of penetrant, heat and pressure to get them loose. I also made some special tools to help shock them and hopefully break the rust loose between the rakes and the shaft. One thing I do is once they're off, clean and paint the shaft then coat them with anti-seize to help reduce the chance of them rusting solid again (this model blower does have a full width auger shaft in it).
 

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Found some pictures of a auger assembly where the rakes were rusted on solid. Like I said I typically use penetrant, heat & pressure to get them off. You have to be careful using the one tool I made to help shock them loose. Here's a brief set of pictures that show some of the various steps I use. Which are used depends on the conditions encountered so there's more than used in every situation.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've restored a 536.882700 blower that was in really sad condition when I got it in the past. It's a sound structure, very well built machine but totally abused when I got it. I documented what I did to disassemble it and rebuild it, it was one really sad case when I bought it. In fact I bought it for the electric starter and planned to part it out, but decided to rebuild it instead. There was virtually no area in this blower or engine that I didn't touch, everything was in really sad (rusty or broken) state when I got it but it turned out well in the end. Even the engine was salvageable when I got done, and it's unbelievable how bad it looked when I initially got it.

The last digit of the model number apparently depends on whether the unit came with an electric starter or not when purchased from what I can tell.

I do have a doc on the machine as I went through it if you're interested in a copy along with a doc on what I do to get auger rakes that are rusted onto the auger shaft off. I have them both in pdf and doc format (the machine rebuild along with one on getting rusted auger rakes off). If interested, send me a pm with your email address and I can send you a copy of each of them if interested.

I have to admit getting the auger rakes off can be a problem. typically I use a combination of penetrant, heat and pressure to get them loose. I also made some special tools to help shock them and hopefully break the rust loose between the rakes and the shaft. One thing I do is once they're off, clean and paint the shaft then coat them with anti-seize to help reduce the chance of them rusting solid again (this model blower does have a full width auger shaft in it).

I have been studying your posts of this unit and i was hoping you would ad your $.02. I wish I could have found one in better condition and not as rusty.
I am going to try your some of your methods for separating the Rakes.
 

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I have been studying your posts of this unit and i was hoping you would ad your $.02. I wish I could have found one in better condition and not as rusty.
I am going to try your some of your methods for separating the Rakes.
I was wondering why the last number is a 2. This one has a 110 electric starter. Could the last digit be the year it was made. Maybe 1982? Does anyone know how they came up with the model numbers?
 

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Take a good look at the before picture of the one I did, yours looks to be in a whole lot better condition than mine was. I had dents in the auger housing I took out, a considerable amount of surface rust, damaged sprockets, a motor whose carb and internals were rusted beyond belief. Thing was with some serious planning for it to come together. I even had to pull the commutator out of the engine so there was that retiming too. Needless to say it all came together, not quick but worked very well by the time I got done. Even split the auger/drive controls from a single to dual controls.

That's why I offered the doc, hopefully there's a lot of good stuff that might be helpful.
 

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I was wondering why the last number is a 2. This one has a 110 electric starter. Could the last digit be the year it was made. Maybe 1982? Does anyone know how they came up with the model numbers?
Year mfg - nope. I happened to find a couple of manuals on the same base model machine, plus having bought a couple like that too. 2d digit was 2 if they had an electric starter on them. Easy to add an electric starter so it wasn't a big deal if you can find one at an affordable price.

Have not come up anything logical on if there's some hidden pattern to model numbers. Only thing is the first 3 digits (536) designates it was made by Murray, rest of it - who knows. There are large frame blowers with lower and with higher model numbers than the 4-5 hp small frame ones.
 

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Take a good look at the before picture of the one I did, yours looks to be in a whole lot better condition than mine was. I had dents in the auger housing I took out, a considerable amount of surface rust, damaged sprockets, a motor whose carb and internals were rusted beyond belief. Thing was with some serious planning for it to come together. I even had to pull the commutator out of the engine so there was that retiming too. Needless to say it all came together, not quick but worked very well by the time I got done. Even split the auger/drive controls from a single to dual controls.

That's why I offered the doc, hopefully there's a lot of good stuff that might be helpful.
Is the doc on line or could you email it. I would love to see it all. I really don't think that I am going to get the auger apart without ruining seals. I wish the shaft was hollow all of the way. I wouldn't even mind talking on the phone. I might want to split the drive too. This certainly will take hours upon hours .
 

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Is the doc on line or could you email it. I would love to see it all. I really don't think that I am going to get the auger apart without ruining seals. I wish the shaft was hollow all of the way. I wouldn't even mind talking on the phone. I might want to split the drive too. This certainly will take hours upon hours .
Don't worry about the seals, they are cheap available parts. You just press them in from the outside, the one on the impeller shaft has to be pressed in after the 2 halves are bolted back together. Biggest issue you will encounter in the auger case is aligning the wedge cutout on the bushings correctly in the case. You have a possible 4 bushings to deal with and 3 seals along with the gasket between the 2 halves of the case. It's not rocket science, just take it slow and easy and you'll get through it.

The auger doc is on a small frame blower while yours is a large frame, but I don't remember if that has a 1" or 3/4" shaft. Just make sure you get the right size bushings and seals for yours.

Paul
 

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Craig


Sent you a copy of the manual in pdf format today.
Don't lose faith, that machine is a beast when it's done, there are few that can keep up with it and the Tecumseh transmission is just gravy on it.


Paul
 

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You stated earlier about looking for a 10 HP Driftbreaker for a friend. While this is not a 10 HP, there is none-the-less an 8 HP Driftbreaker up in Worcester for $50 if you are interested - the neighborhood where it is located is fine. It's been sitting on Craigslist forever so you probably can get it for $30....

Link: https://worcester.craigslist.org/grd/d/sears-snowblower/6391664950.html

There's a also a 4-speed version of the machine that you are restoring in nearby Manchester, Conn. This one's pricey at $200 and is going nowhere fast. Perhaps you might be interested in this one for short money as a parts machine for your current restoration....

Link #2: https://hartford.craigslist.org/grd/d/snowblower-sears-craftsman/6434012528.html
 

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