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Discussion Starter #1
New to me Craftsman snowblower. I'm this far in. Trying to get the smooth large friction wheel off. Unsure of next steps. Have a look. Any tips appreciated.
Thanks. Keith

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Discussion Starter #2
Been screwing with this too long tonight. Still not able to figure this one out. I came in from the shop to look up part numbers and research.
I see a hex on the shaft that turns the plate. It fits into the back of hex socket on the back of the plate. Won't come apart though. I found these photos of the parts on line. I was able to remove a snap ring and get more crap to flop around. But still won't come apart. There is no room to move the plate upward due to the speed fork for the friction rubber disc movement. It's above the friction plate. There is a bearing on the shaft not allowing shaft to come out he bottom. No dang room in there! LOL.

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This is interesting...104 views and not 1 comment. Am I going where no man has gone before? Kinda scary! I will head out soon again to my shop and keep at it. If/when I get this figured out I will update how I did so. In the meantime, I'll keep checking back. Fingers crossed someone can explain how this plate is to be removed.
 

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I would have taken the engine off the frame (4bolts) to easily get in there and work on it on a bench. Your all apart anyways.

Pay close attention to the springs and there locations, and don't lose any.

I was not aware of a grease zerk fitting on those drive plates?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Model info in pic below. It is a Murray, built for Craftsman Canada. I'll get more pics of the other side of the plate posted later. I may indeed pull the engine yet. We'll see.

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not trying to be a smart a$$ but what is your reasoning for removing this?

can you remove the entire assembly? meaning the metal plate that the disk is connected to?

it might be easier to figure out, if you can remove the entire assembly from inside there
 

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For those that are wondering about spending the extra money for a toro or ariens, look at the thickness of the friction disk in the photo, and compare it with yours, and i think that you will agree that you spent your money well.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
does taking this bolt out do anything?
That bolt retains a sprung idler pulley arm for a drive belt. No, it does not affect removal of the friction plate.

@jerryvvv The reason I am trying to remove the drive plate is, the jack shaft with sprocket, just to the left of it needs work. It's flopping around loose and causing problems. The drive plate restricts access to the sprocket shaft mounting bearing. I cannot remove it, nor attempt to shim the shaft as a trial.

Update: I think I just found my problem. The wall of the tranny area, that the plate drive shaft goes through, has a sub floor. Hard to see up in there as it is mostly enclosed. Peeking in there with a flashlight I can see a nut. It is on the end of the brass colored vertical control rod for adjusting the speed and direction of the friction disc. It is above the plate. The forks that hold the friction coated disc are impeding movement of the drive plate from going upwards in my photos. I see a relief hole cut in the lowest layer of the sub floor. I will get in there later and remove the nut. I suspect rod will rise up and allow me to get the friction plate off. We shall see later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Success. I removed the plate and found my problem. See sprocket is not sitting square. Accentuated by the red line. When properly mounted it sits crooked. Upon further research I see why. Slightly tweaked bent frame
and broken welds. Hmm. I think I can fix this. Straighten it out and re-weld.

There ya go. Buyer beware. I just bought the blower used. Be aware out there folks! I can likely fix it but for a shop to repair it, likely fairly costly. A lot has to come apart to gain access it. Then be it all has to be reassembled.
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Discussion Starter #18
did you buy the snowblower in "non-working" condition?
Yes I did. I was prepared to fix it. I just was not sure on the depth of the repair. The engine ran very well. The auger and blower seem to work well. Tranny kept jumping the chain was the known complaint. Now we know why. I don't feel like I was screwed. Just letting others know, to be on the lookout for similar faults in used blowers.

I was not aware until I took this one apart that the drive on these blowers is a double reduction gear ratio. There is some serious gear reduction going in that tranny. 5.14:1 on the first set of set of gears & chain. Then another further 5.14:1 reduction again on the second drive chain & sprocket. 11 HP 4 stroke 350cc engine. Man that's some torque to the ground. No wonder the frame that supports the tranny is bent. When it hits a hard pack sizeable pile of snow and ice, those tires can bite pretty hard....Something has got to give. That's a lot of torsional forces changing direction a lot of times. I respect the contraption! More than I did before.
 

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"Buyer beware " is the motto on any machine that has issues ... all mine were free and not running, but I am fortunate to have the time, tools and knowledge to dismantle and repair them.

Snowblowers are a machine that has the capability to mame or kill you, ... yes, respect on these and any machine is at the top of the list.

Glad you finally dismantled it and found your issue ... for me it is a joy to work on them and make the repairs, reassemble and have a nice running machine. Take it as therapy, and a good learning experience. At least now you have a real understanding of your machine, and how it operates.
 

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The old Murrays wren built quite tough, my signature machine is like a tank, will probably outlive me.
Sid
 
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