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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I've got a 926TE that I bought new in 1998. I noticed the drive was slipping a bit last winter so I decided to take it apart this year before the snow flies. I ended up replacing the dive belt, auger belts and the rubber part of the friction drive assembly.

All that went well but now the unit tends to drive forward on its own in gear 4, 5 & 6 without depressing the drive lever. It's pretty stable in the lower gears or in reverse. I've never had to adjust any of the cables in the 19 years I've owned it and there appears to be plenty of slack (perhaps too much) in the cable when the drive lever it not depressed.

Is there something I missed internally during the reassembly that would cause this? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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Driving on its own would indicate the drive wheel is touching the plate. I would check the adjustments again and make sure there is enough slack in it. Sometimes the vibration of the engine just makes them move.

If the bearings in the hex shaft or friction plate are worn it could be kicking it to an angle making it touch as well.
 

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first post so welcome to the site
sounds like you might have miss adjusted the drive wheel if it's moving on it's own with out engaging the belt just back trace your work SLOWLY!
 

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I notice on my machine, when it is neutral, the rubber disc is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch off the drive disc, and it is actually adjustable. Thats probably because it is so old. But all the above posts point out what could be wrong.
Sid
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I appreciate all the replies. I opened the bottom panel again to verify everything is correct. All springs, cables and stop bolts are in place and functioning properly. (I have 40 years of experience turning wrenches on anything that has nuts and bolts so I'm generally confident in my work.)

When standing upright on the auger section that friction plate freely moves as far forward as possible (the stop bolt) and there is indeed 1/8" to 1/4" of gap between the disc and the rubber friction wheel. It's impossible to see what is going on when it's sitting upright on its tracks but I suspect Shyrp is correct and engine vibration is causing the issue. The bearings that hold the hex shaft are in good shape with no detectable play.

It seems to me that a lightweight spring pulling that friction disc away from the friction wheel would solve the problem while still allowing the spring pressure of the drive engaging lever (when depressed) to cause it to drive.

I've double checked the drive cable to make sure it is allowing that friction plate to fully disengage and there is oodles of play there so I do not suspect a cable adjustment would help anything.

I assume that engine vibration and a new friction wheel is the source of the issue so maybe it just needs a little idle time to begin behaving properly again? Once the friction wheel heats up thoroughly it should glaze over slighting and have less gription. (if that's a word)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just finished letting it run full speed with the gear selector on "6" and and drive lever disengaged while pressing against a board for about 40 minutes so it couldn't creep forward at all. It does not seem as jumpy or inclined to move on it's own so it's getting better. I think that by the time I blow the first couple of storms away it should be working as normal.

I also extended the impellers with an old TORO rubber sweeper blade. This improve performance in wet snow/slush as well as throwing regular snow even further. I finished everything up with a nice coat of dry teflon lubricant spray to keep snow from accumulating on the auger and other areas. I also changed the oil and switched to synthetic.

Now that I'm ready it won't snow for three years.!
 

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You are right about the spring. Every machine I have worked on has a return spring that pulls the disc away. Are you saying yours is just floating there? What is there to pull the handle back up when you release it?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
On this unit the friction disc is mounted to a steel gate-like part hinged at the top. The cable from the drive lever (on right side) pulls the friction disk rearward to engage the friction wheel when you depress the lever. When depressed, the cable is actually pulled through the center of a spring which causes the spring to load up which in turn causes drive lever to disengage when you let go. That system is not rigged to pull the friction disk back forward (away from the friction wheel) to disengage the friction wheel. I think that is accomplished by hinging it slightly forward so that when it hangs straight down it is naturally disengaged.

I hope that makes sense. It seems to be getting better now that I've "run it in" a bit. I'll see how it acts when it turns cold.
 
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