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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

Firstly great website here. I've spent some time researching the forum for an answer to an issue i'm having with my cub cadet snowblower. Hoping to get some help to diagnose the issue.

The snowblower is a Cub Cadet 208cc two stage blower approximately 11 years old. I had issues starting it this winter so i cleaned the carburetor, changed the oil, put in a new spark plug and fresh 91 octane fuel. The blower started for a few seconds and then stopped. When i pulled the spark plug out it was wet and black. I cleaned it with a rag and dipped it in some gas and put it back into the blower and tried starting it again to see if it would start up. No luck, again when i pulled out the plug it was wet and black.


Based on the research i've done i'm thinking that it could be oil leaking into the spark plug well. Which could mean that the piston rings or head gasket may need to be replaced. I'm def not a handy person when it comes to engines but wanted to get the thoughts from the pros on the forum.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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That engine is a Honda clone. These carbs have fixed jets. Non adjustable. Could be that the fuel inlet needle is not seating causing a high fuel level. These carbs are not easy to clean without an ultrasonic cleaner. You can find that carb on Ebay for 20.00.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That engine is a Honda clone. These carbs have fixed jets. Non adjustable. Could be that the fuel inlet needle is not seating causing a high fuel level. These carbs are not easy to clean without an ultrasonic cleaner. You can find that carb on Ebay for 20.00.
The needle did seem fine when I cleaned it. Is there any other reasons that could be causing this? I should add that if I try to start it now even after cleaning the plug it fails to start or hesitates and nearly starts doesn’t.

I appreciate the help!
 

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The needle and seat can look good, but the best way to check it is to pressure test it. I rebuild a lot of carburetors and I would throw that one away.
My mistake on the 20.00, it's more like 12.00. Enter your part number on ebay. Don't worry about whether or not you are getting asian parts. Every part of that engine is from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The needle and seat can look good, but the best way to check it is to pressure test it. I rebuild a lot of carburetors and I would throw that one away.
My mistake on the 20.00, it's more like 12.00. Enter your part number on ebay. Don't worry about whether or not you are getting asian parts. Every part of that engine is from there.

Thanks will do. I'll order that. Any idea on how difficult it is to also replace the ignition coil? the metal collar that plugs into the spark plug just snapped on me when i tried removing the spark plug. F*** my life.

Wondering if it's worthwhile to attempt to repair the machine given all the troubles its given me over the last few years or if i should just buy a new one.

If i replace the carb and the ignition coil, would that ensure the snowblower will start or could there be other issues preventing it from starting?

Sorry for the noob questions!
 

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If there is a mechanic nearby, they should have a plug terminal and could install it on the wire for you. As far as other issues, you can only fix them when they arise. Money spent fixing a snowblower is better than spending it on a shovel. You learn stuff too.
 

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Any chance the plug cap was marginal before you got to it, and you just found out when you pulled it? That could also explain a lot of your problems . . . . And yes, as others have stated, just put a new clip and boot on it if the wire isn't torn up as well . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Any chance the plug cap was marginal before you got to it, and you just found out when you pulled it? That could also explain a lot of your problems . . . . And yes, as others have stated, just put a new clip and boot on it if the wire isn't torn up as well . . .
I'm unsure if this could be the case as when i did the check for spark, there was spark. But if you're implying that the plug could have played a role in delivering a inconsistent spark, that could be the case.

Question - Would you guys recommend changing the ignition coil as a whole or have someone add a new clip to the boot? I've added two pictures to give you guys an idea of the damage.

Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting
 

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Don't apologize my friend, we were all new at this.

Its not like Briggs and Stratton is making 52,000 gas engines a day in Milwaukee or Tecumseh is making gas engines in the United States anymore-I wish they were as this junk clone crap would not exist.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
lol thanks Leonz! What are your thoughts on the ignition coil? Should i just fix the spark plug boot or replace the ignition coil?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Does anybody have any thoughts on any positives of replacing the ignition coil entirely vs the spark plug boot?
 

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If it were me, I would just fix the wire end. If the coil works, then there is no advantage to replace it. On some coils you can replace the whole wire, but I'm not sure on that one. You would have to look at it to see how the factory put it together.
 

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I don't know how much the coil is. If it's $10, maybe just swap the coil. But if it's $50, I'd try to attach a new clip to the existing wire. I've never looked into what sort of parts are available for doing this, though.
 
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