Leave it alone unless it is time for an oil change
.

 

Does the manufacturer make any mention of this? On some 4 stroke engines, if they are turned over a certain way the motor oil will get up past the piston rings and basically hydrolock the cylinder making it impossible to start. Until you remove the spark plug, and cycle the starter enough times to clear the cylinder of the excess motor oil.
A relative did this with an old Craftsman riding lawn mower. Turned it up to remove and sharpen the blade. Motor seemed hydrolocked (because it was). Called me up I came over and removed the plug, cranked it over enough to get the oil out. Replaced the plug and started it. The residual oil in the muffler ignited and shot a flame out the end of it! Exciting. So just be careful. It ran fine after that.

 

i have never had an issue with the oil when a machine is on its snout. fuel level in the tank is another story.:icon-embarrassed:

 

I dont drain oil when its face down. Just gas must be below half


-efisher-

 

Before I do any heavy duty work I make sure everything is empty. that way I don't have to clean up any after birth on the garage floor.k:k:k:k:k:

 

What did some oil come out the muffler?

 

Just in case you have to access the underbelly while the gas tank is more than ½ full, one of my Tecumseh Manuals suggested placing two (2) thicknesses of Saran Wrap under the gas cap and screwing the cap down tight . . . . and this will prevent leakage while the unit is tipped.

I've done this successfully while servicing the unit for a few hours; but not for days !

I can't speak to how long it might take to decompose the plastic.

 

I'm with Powershift93, before I flip a snowblower on its nose, or a lawn mower on its side, I drain the gas and oil. Usually, that means run it out of gas and drain (change) the oil. Yes, some machines are laid out that some turning over might not spill any fluid ... but I don't like to chance it ... makes too much of a mess if you're wrong. Others have also mentioned there is a chance of hydrolock.

Besides, an extra oil change for your motor isn't a bad thing ... and most only take 16-20 ounces. If you want to be really cheap, you can capture the oil and pour it back in. However, the oil will have bits in it from the sump that you should not pour back in ... and the act of draining the oil also usually adds a few bits as well. Drain the oil through a cloth, coffee filter or the like before re-using ... and have some fresh oil standing by as you WILL lose some oil in the process and you won't have enough to completely refill the engine.

 

Great Discussion Guys, There isn't enough oil in most of today's engines to get past the rings and cause Hydro-Static lock. That would certainly be a consideration when the engineers designed a 'Service Position' to begin with. Lawn tractors are a different story (horizontal vs vertical cranks, plus, did he lay that tractor on it's hood?). The biggest issue with oil leaks I have, is when I pull 40 snow blowers in at night, and put them in "Service Position', some of the machines will leak a small amount of oil from the dipstick tube/fill tube. I use old disposable rubber gloves.... take the Dipstick out, push the stick through the old glove, then insert stick in tube and tighten down. Fuel usually isn't a problem, as most units are brought in empty or I have already drained the fuel and put a small amount back in. But the old gloves would work for that application also. GLuck, Jay

 

I use old disposable rubber gloves.... take the Dipstick out, push the stick through the old glove, then insert stick in tube and tighten down.

I do the same thing. Same for the gas cap as well.

Not necessary to drain all the fluids

 

JayZAuto1, I never really thought about the path oil would take to get INTO the combustion chamber ... but that makes sense that hydrolock would be practically impossible.

I did, however, turn a push mower on its side when I was a teenager and most of the oil drained out (through the exhaust valve?) and severely damaged the main bearing when it was run.

 

I just caught that post about little push mowers.... that's a different animal. as they don't hold much oil to begin with and most have vertical crankshafts. They are particular which side they can be tipped over on. ESP the newer low-priced units with no drain plug. The generous manufactures insist on draining the oil through the fill...GENIUS!!!! Jay

 

Why bother with rubber gloves? There is supposed to be an o-ring on the dip stick tube.

 

Those O-Rings IF there, don't always seal the oil in. Some of the Tubes are cracked, stripped or have a combination of maladies. Not all customers take care of their machines or are interested in putting any money in them. So rather than deal with the mess or letting the oil run out, I simply use old gloves.....economical, environmentally friendly and best of all Quick!!!!! J

 

I actually ruined a motor doing this. I was replacing the motor mount bolts on a Kohler equipped Deere riding motor and didn't bother to drain the oil. I'm sure I had it upside down and sideways a few times and when I started it, it went BOOOM and never ran again. I think I blew some teeth off the timing gears but never took it apart to find out because it was pretty shot anyway. Point of the story. just drain the **** oil.
Alfred

 

Upside down is different then on its side no?


-efisher-

 

Yeah, probably, but it's a really simple precaution to take. Takes about five minutes, in Americanadian units that's one beer (unless you don't have a heated garage, in that case two beers), and could save you hundreds of dollars. Just drain the thing, it probably needs it anyways.