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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
i'm revisiting a spring purchase Ariens 10ML60D. After cosmetic improvements, i could not get it to start. lots of fuel was pouring out of the carb area. i mothballed it until now. i would like to get it up and running well. i just put fuel in the tank, opened the fuel shut off, put the choke on, and primed the recoil. i noticed a lot of fuel dripping. took a look, and it appears to at least be pouring out of a tiny hole on the left side of the carburetor in an area. a very narrow view, so my pic is not very good.

in the spring i thought fuel was pouring out the choke opening (and there may be other leak points), but this was a little geyser. don't know what the purpose of that little hole is. should pull the whole carb, rebuild it, replace it? i don't have great faith in the quality of the super cheap chinese carbs, though i don't yet know if new OE is available.

appreciate the help/insight.
 

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I would read up and review you tube videos on carb cleaning and remove the carb, dismantle and give it another thorough cleaning. See if that solves the run issue.

I could not find an exact replacement cheap Chinese carb, when I replaced the original on my 1969 H50 10000 series. I had to use parts off my original carb on the Chinese carb I bought that was the closest match I could find, so I could maintain the original throttle control. The Chinese carb has run well for 3 or 4 years now, but is not the same quality as the original.

If the original carb is in good condition and the shafts on your carb are not worn, I would consider buying a carb kit for your original carb.

Perhaps Chinese carbs for the H60 are available with the identical linkages as the original.
If you do find an exact replacement Chinese carb with the correct linkage and choke plates please post a link, as it would be beneficial to others. I don't think the H50 and H60 use the same carb?
 

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Neither of those carbs will work on a H50 or H60 with out modifications as I mentioned above.

Also the choke lever is plastic and designed to be connected to a knob on the top of the heater box, not controlled out the side of the heater box.

These are actually closer to the original carb, but still require mods as mentioned above


 

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If you've never had it open, it could just be the bowl gasket dried up. I suspect by your description though it is leaking out the atmospheric vent which means the float is not shutting fuel off when full. (red circle, your carb won't have the primer nipple)
Those old carbs can get saturated and the bowls can develop pin holes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you've never had it open, it could just be the bowl gasket dried up. I suspect by your description though it is leaking out the atmospheric vent which means the float is not shutting fuel off when full. (red circle, your carb won't have the primer nipple)
Those old carbs can get saturated and the bowls can develop pin holes.
yes, that looks like the hole the fuel is pouring out of! thx. i would like to keep the original carb. i've never actually rebuild one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
maybe good news here, i have a full engine i took home from the dump recently. it is almost identical, H60 7500xx, and it started and ran well when i tried it earlier. seems to have the exact same carb unit (vent hole included). so i will just unbolt the whole thing and do a complete swap.
 

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Most of those engines share the same carburetor, but with differnt choke setups, ( i.e. differnt part numbers).....and are usually very easy to swap out, as the choke butterfly usually snaps in the choke rod, and then the choke rod pulls out ... easy swap ... just make sure your connections, i.e. throttle levers, primer,, etc ... are the same. I always try for the adjustable versions.

Most of these replacements are undewr 15.00 ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
holy moly, just finished the carb swap. took longer than i thought because i didn't realize the best way to do it was to unscrew the two bolts holding it to the engine block rather than trying to impossibly remove the 7/16ths nuts holding the carb body to the flange-y thing.

btw, no gaskets on the engine mount side? i think there were only gaskets out near the spring prime knob.

anyway, don't want to drag this on. took a little while, but the engine fired up! also, the original throttle cable broke off at the handlebar. tried separating it to fix, gave up, and mounted the 10k style from the donor engine, which is much more robust. throttle worked great now.

the blower ate my porch runner! i was working on it on the porch, and when it was running, i forgot the augers move with the tranny! it gobbled it up, and stalled. just a tear, machine is fine. took it outside, restarted it, and put it through its paces. ran really well. had not been started by me since picking it up in early spring.

have not installed the other friction spring. too precious to use! so it is one wheel drive right now. Oneacer has one of these, maybe he can comment on one spring drive.

getting this blower up and running has been on my list all summer. with fall/winter here, really relieved to get this one done! thx to anyone who pitched in with advice and encouragement.
 

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@rwh963,

I have the ratchet drive kit that was available back then on my 10ML60D ...... Works better in the turns than any machine I own ... I am fortunate that both sides are working as they should. On that machine e I installed a Predator 212 ..... One of my favorite machines....

Glad you got yours running good, and I would definitely have both sides operating as they should if one is not working properly.

I am very much looking forward operating my Cub Zero turn as well as my restored JD 826 with its clutch differential, which I totally rebuilt, and it is working flawlessly ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
@rwh963,

I have the ratchet drive kit that was available back then on my 10ML60D ...... Works better in the turns than any machine I own ... I am fortunate that both sides are working as they should. On that machine e I installed a Predator 212 ..... One of my favorite mmachines....

I am very much looking forward operating my Cub Zero turn as well as my restored JD 826 with its clutch differential, which I totally rebuilt, and it is working flawlessly ....
right, we both have the ratchet kit. i have one side friction springed. have a new pair of springs. i probably will be storing this blower (and other vintage blowers) this winter and using the 724/824. don't want to get the old blowers messy after so much work on them!
 
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