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Hey guys and gals, I am just getting around to hooking the ATV (i.e., too narrow) Kimpex snow blower to my Polaris Ranger 6x6 UTV (i.e., wider) so some auger housing widening or at least wings will be required.

But because the chute will be controlled from inside the cab, an electric chute will be required. So, this thread is to ask for the current best electric chute retrofit -- everything from motor to power connections to joy stick.

I searched for "electric chute retrofit, "electric chute," "chute retrofit" and even just "retrofit" in thread titles only and got nothing.

So, what is the current best electric chute retrofit?
 

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I have heard of people using a power window motor for your project.


I suppose a battery powered drill motor would also work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have read some great posts in the past on this forum about electric chute retrofits. I just cannot find them.

I have rebuilt the window motors in my 1995 Ford Bronco, and I don't recall seeing any separate external switches that stop the motor once the window is in the full up or in the full down position.

So, my first question is does a electric automobile window motor have an internal limit switch?

One youtube video used a power seat motor, but without a limit switch it will likely be destroyed by operator inadvertence (at least in my case it would!)

Interesting discussion regarding older automobile window motors which apparently had controllers to stop the motor when the current got to high, vs. newer automobile window motors which are controlled by the automobile's computer:


https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/6083/do-car-power-windows-have-limit-switches

Or this:

"I know on every car I've ever owned with power windows, the "thing" that makes the motor stop when the window reaches the limits of its operation is just that....the motor stalls when it can't move the window any more. But the motor is still receiving power. The automakers assume you will let your finger off the button as soon as the window is where you want it. I can tell that the motor is still energized on my car even when the window is fully open or shut if I'm still holding the button down, because the interior lights will dim until I release the window button. Similarily, if the window is already "up" and I push the "up" button anyway, nothing will happen, but you can see the dash lights dim due to the load going through the stalled motor."

https://www.doityourself.com/forum/passenger-cars-mini-vans-suv-service-repairs-no-trucks/373890-power-window-motors.html

This GM clone has good ratings and appears to be used by Bercomac, so I ordered it:


"I have a 42" Bercomac snow blower attachment for my lawn tractor. The Berco snowblower has a separate kit to electrically raise and lower the chute and to rotate the chute. Both the rotate and elevation functions run on separate power window motors. I recently had to replace one of these motors and, after looking high and low, found his motor which is a perfect replacement . . . just had to unbolt the broken motor and bolt on this new one . . . it is a one-for-one replacement. I highly recommend it to you if you need to replace your Berco chute deflector or rotation motors."

Now on to looking for a linear actuator for the chute deflector as shown here:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/snow-removal/230073-electric-chute-deflector-kubota-b3030.html?highlight=deflector
 

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A power window motor would be more waterproof that a seat motor. I had an MTD that used a wiper motor. The original motor crapped out and I retro fitted one from a GM.
 

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A newer generation Honda HSS chute motor should work depending on what kind of “gear” you have at the chute base.
They cost $25-30
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A newer generation Honda HSS chute motor should work depending on what kind of “gear” you have at the chute base.
They cost $25-30
Thank you! Very interested in an link to purchase if it is not too much trouble!
 

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have you have seen how a wiper assembly works? you could probably make a shoot control the works along the same principle as a wiper assembly. that way you should not need to worry about needing a limiting switch. the motor would just cycle and start bringing the shoot down if the motor turns past where you wanted it which could maybe allow you to make things a bit simpler. you could probably even us an old drill to do the same thing. i know i have thrown out many old 8-14v drills over the years that would have probably don't the job but they have just been outdated.
 

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YSHSFan:

Thank you for the link. It will not work for the Kimpex because of the chute gear, I will post up some build pictures here.

I asked for the link to see if it is something I could use to convert the manual chute on my HS1132TA to electric. If anyone would know, it would be you. What do you think?

 

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YSHSFan:

Thank you for the link. It will not work for the Kimpex because of the chute gear, I will post up some build pictures here.

I asked for the link to see if it is something I could use to convert the manual chute on my HS1132TA to electric. If anyone would know, it would be you. What do you think?

If you are creative it is definitely possible. It’s one of my to-do’s for the future.
 

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this is what i was thinking. the idea works along the same lines as a windshield wiper assembly. simple but works. i think the hardest part would be figuring out the exact length of the arm needed on the motor to push the chute deflector just enough but not too much
 

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this is what i was thinking. the idea works along the same lines as a windshield wiper assembly. simple but works. i think the hardest part would be figuring out the exact length of the arm needed on the motor to push the chute deflector just enough but not too much
It's a good idea no doubt


For the chute deflector a linear actuator works the best IMHO.
 

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i have heard linear actuators are not always waterproof and eventually have issues plus thy tend to be somewhat expensive. i think the cheapest one i was able to find was still about $80.
 
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