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Discussion Starter #1
I have an older HM100 (mod # 159058E, ser# 0127D) that I would like to convert from points style ignition to the newer module style electronic ignition. Can this be done with the newer Ariens module and if so, what else besides the module is required? Or is there an easier method?:confused:
Thanks
 

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I looked your engine up on Parts Tree and it looks like it has electronic ignition from the factory. If it has points the easiest would be to put a NOVA universal ignition module on. Simple bolt on to to that. Read the instructions and follow them. Usually can buy them in the 10 to 20 dollar range on E-Bay. Roger
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
This is an older 1978 era HM100 that has points,I know as I'm always cleaning them.
I tried twice to install the Nova module without any success. Accoding to the manufacturer, if there is a weak coil or the flywheel has dual magnets, it won't work. I put in a new coil and still had no luck. Removing the flywheel I saw that it looks like it has two magnets about 1 inch apart. I don't know if this is actually two magnets or just one with 2 poles, in any case I had no luck getting it to spark. I still have the module. That's the reason I was trying to find out if the later engine ignition would just drop in, with minor changes.
The reason I'd like to replace the points is that during the summer non- use time the points get a coating on them from sitting and i have to remove the flywheel to get at them for cleaning the point surfaces.
If I start it every couple of weeks during the summer, it keeps them clean. I just wanted to eliminate this constant running and come up with a better system.
I suppose I could have purchased a defective module. It wasn't actually a Nova but a similar looking item, came from Jack's Small Engine.
rick
 

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I put one on a '66 HMSK6 and it works very good. Make sure the unit has the anti kick back feature. If not, it yanks the starter rope out of your hand, and that REALLY HURTS.
Sid
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll check for a diag of the HMSK6 ignition and see if it's the same as mine.
Thanks to all that responded,
Rick
 

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I have an older HM100 (mod # 159058E, ser# 0127D) that I would like to convert from points style ignition to the newer module style electronic ignition. Can this be done with the newer Ariens module and if so, what else besides the module is required? Or is there an easier method?:confused:
Thanks
the best electronic conversion for old point ignition, is the Nova II, I've had one on my Gilson 16HP Briggs tractor for about 10 years now. The machine sits outside and never fails to start year after year for snow plowing. I also installed the Nova II's on a handful of old snowblowers, and the performance is like day and night, in regards to ease of starting, and stable ignition. I highly recommend it.

you do not have to get the magnets repolarized, and it's cheaper than points/condenser. this is a win-win-win.

here's the link. there's a reason why he sold 660 of them. they are the best darn thing since sliced bread. if God made a better ignition conversion, He kept it for Himself

 

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I have an older HM100 (mod # 159058E, ser# 0127D) that I would like to convert from points style ignition to the newer module style electronic ignition. Can this be done with the newer Ariens module and if so, what else besides the module is required? Or is there an easier method?:confused:
Thanks
Try slapping on a used (or new) magneto in place of the old coil. (Take your existing coil down to your local small engine repair, ask if they have any used magnetos that would fit same hole mounting pattern. Offer them $5).

I would take out the points & condenser, and save them for later; but you could just cut off the existing condenser wire to save time. Personally I'd yank them out and save them just in case.

To mount the magneto, turn the flywheel so the magnets on the other side of the engine; away from the coil; then remove the bolts holding the old coil.

Mount the new magneto about 1/4" from the flywheel and tighten only enough to keep it from moving.

Put some cardboard, about the thickness of a business card or so (looking for about 20 thousandths), between the magneto and the flywheel, then turn the flywheel so the magnets are facing the magneto pickup arms (keeping the cardboard in place).

Loosen the magneto mounting screws and the magnet will pull the magneto tight against the business card(s). This will work for setting the gap.

Tighten the magneto screws good and tight, then rotate the flywheel to remove the business cards.

Magneto's have a tang on them for killing the engine. Run a wire from a kill switch to this tang. When this tang is grounded, the engine will stop.

There are several YouTube videos on this, here's one on converting an older B&S to magneto.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Mine looks the same but does not say Nova on it. I'll go ahead and order the Nova unit and give it another try. As I said before, maybe I picked up a bum unit. I'll have to wait until spring, since were up to our eyeballs in snow here in Massachusetts.
Thanks for the information.
Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey thanks Enigma-2!!! That's exactly what I was looking for! Although mine is a Tecumseh engine, it should be the same procedure. I'll just have to look at the mags for that brand. I had been looking at various Tecumseh replacement mags with the idea of doing just this procedure, just didn't know if the flywheels were different to go with the mags.
I'll try the Nova 2 conversion and keep this magneto change available in case I still have no luck with the Nova.
Thanks again,
Rick
 

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Hey thanks Enigma-2!!! That's exactly what I was looking for! Although mine is a Tecumseh engine, it should be the same procedure. I'll just have to look at the mags for that brand. I had been looking at various Tecumseh replacement mags with the idea of doing just this procedure, just didn't know if the flywheels were different to go with the mags.
I'll try the Nova 2 conversion and keep this magneto change available in case I still have no luck with the Nova.
Thanks again,
Rick
Your Tecumseh has the ignition coil mounted underneath the flywheel and is completely different than the Briggs pictured. Your choices are to stay with the points setup or try the NovaII as suggested by GWB.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just checked the module that I used and it is a Nova 2. All I can think of is that I picked up a bad unit. In the spring I'll give the one I have another shot, then maybe buy another Nova 2. You're right about the coil being under the flywheel....guess I was too anxious to get the answer to my question that I went brain numb.
Thanks
 

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I looked into electronic ign about 5 yrs ago for dads '67 H5.0 The two shops here said don't bother, they are not reliable as points, too many problems. At that time I replaced the coil, points, condenser and set the timing. Not sure how you could set timing with no points. You would need to degree the flywheel and use a timing light.

Fired it up with 2 pulls today, gonna be hard to beat that!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I'm just trying to eliminate the no spark caused by build-up on the points during the summer season. I have to dismantle the flywheel to get at them and it's annoying. Once cleaned they start and run fine, but letting it sit gets an oxide or something on the points which gives no spark. I've been starting it every two wks during the summer to keep the points clean, which solves the issue. I'd just rather not have to do that if there was a way around it, hence the attempt at eliminating the points. That's the only problem I have with them, but I don't like the aggravation.
Rick
 

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rick

I hear ya. It would be great to eliminate the points.

How are you storing it during the summer are you using genuine Tec points? Never had a problem with dads. Replaced the points maybe 4 or 5 times over the 48 yrs part of a normal tuneup. He keeps it in a attached garage, so that may help.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Don't know about the points brand, maybe I should get some tec points. This get stored in an outside Cover-it building, so it gets all the summer humidity. I'm seriously thinking of a new Ariens for next winter. This one had the bendix drive quit as well as the primer bulb/hose right in the middle of our "Winter From ****". After I put it together from parts about 15 years ago, it served me well. Just starting to think about this one as a hobby/project blower and have a new one for reliability.
On another note, I have to do that crank pulley change for improved speed, as described on this site. I used the one that came on the engine when I swapped it and it always was too slow. Just another thing to keep me fixing it! That's what I enjoy anyway.
Rick
 
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