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Discussion Starter #1
My 1128 Toro had its first breakdown and the cable that controls the chute deflector broke. I am thinking not bad for close to 50 hrs on this blower. Have a new cable coming this week.
 

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can you still aim the deflector
 

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No I can not aim the deflector it just shots high. Not a problem in my yard but in a yard I do down the street I have to keep it down a bit so I do not wound the neighbors house 25 ft away. No snow in for cast till Thursday so I will be good till then.
 

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Keep in mind that if you need a cable assembly in a hurry, sometimes you can find DIY shifter/brake cable kits at bicycle stores and then slide the cable out, cut the sheathing to length and carefully slide the cable back in. I did this once with an el-cheapo lawnmower that shipped without a throttle assembly. The throttle was pinned wide open from the factory. Which is getting to be the norm since most mowers have the safety interlock where if you let go of the push bar/handle, the mower turns off. Not a lot of call for throttling down to idle speed when you just have to restart the mower anyways.
 

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Not to bad really. 30-40 bux for the cable?
Could have been worse, could have had a plugged shoot like some other brands that we won't get into here!

Sent from my Shed!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not to bad really. 30-40 bux for the cable?
Could have been worse, could have had a plugged shoot like some other brands that we won't get into here!

Sent from my Shed!
Plugged chute what is that?? Get get some snow build up on the auger but not a plugged chute.:grin::grin:
 

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Toro does not give these cables away, $50.xx plus shipping. Made $70.xx Sat, so cuts into the fun money.
Well that certainly smacks of gouging to me. Kind of ridiculous. Is there not anyway to diy a replacement? I don't know what's involved but isn't it just a wire with a block on either end?
Couldn't one whip splice the broken ends together? I guess it's sheathed and that's the problem?

Maybe cut back the sheath a little from the broken ends and splice the wire together leaving the spliced section unsheathed? Probably easier said than done.

*Does anybody offer an aftermarket version?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I will keep the old cable and fix it somehow as a back up. Might get 1 more dump, My welder friend is back today so we will come up with a plan.
 

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If these are solid wires and not flex cables, you should be able to find a generic of the same inner diameter and simply replace the old one (well, assuming it used "L" or "Z" bends on the ends and not some crimped on concoction. Pull the old one out, cut the least useful end off the new, insert it, and then form the other end to what you need. If it does have some crimped on stuff (ran into that on a Sears mower once) you can attempt to fabricate a clamp to screw into the carb/throttle/whatever, and then just clamp the cable in. There are also parts in the radio control hobby designed for mating rods into holed plates/devices that may work as well - the loads on a snow blower throttle are far lower than those on a large model.

 

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Discussion Starter #19
I hope you follow up with the fix so others can benefit from it. I'd be interested in how you do it.
Not much of a follow up 15 min max job a 3 bolts to take off , under the dash squeze 2 tabs in to pull old cable out from joy stick. The hardest part of the job is paying for the part and shipping cost.
 

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Not much of a follow up 15 min max job a 3 bolts to take off , under the dash squeze 2 tabs in to pull old cable out from joy stick. The hardest part of the job is paying for the part and shipping cost.
Thanks. I was actually referring to your intended mending of the broken cable. :smile2:
 
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