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Discussion Starter #1
Awlrighty then,

Wanted to get a snowblower to get all the snow off my property before breakup (spring), leaves my pad a swamp. Saw a JD 826 on Craigslist, but that individual never responded, so called on a 1032. I bought it.

Now $500 + $247 air freight poorer, I want to make the best of this beast. And it is a beast. I got it into my shop, couldn't wait for it to warm up, so must have pulled it 50 times before I actually got it to start. This is a cold blooded beast for sure, it also does not like rapid excursion of throttle, it will blow black smoke, and die. Slow and easy is the game.
Everything works as seller told me it would.

So: Serial number TRS32 MOTR 32X121126

Craig Taylor Equipment in Anchorage told me they had no record of this being sold through them. Okay, here is my question: how old is this machine? Would like to get owners and shop manual so I could get some spare parts in.

For some reason I thought the seller painted the plastic yoke cover and the engine black as I can smell fresh paint, either that, or he is a painter. This summer I will take it apart and get it back to the original yellow and green.

Any advice appreciated.

:)
 

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did you pull the plug? bet it's all wet. black smoke is probably unburnt gas. flooding maybe due to improper float adjustment or worn needle valve.

maybe some other experts will chime in.
 

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Good idea. I was also thinking since it was in my shop and the engine is a "snow" engine it might have been way overjetted for the 65* shop.

I'll check it. I am also going to drain the gas and put in new. It smelled kind of oldish.

What oil do you use for the cables? The snow deflector at the top, the cable is real sticky.
 

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That may say John Deere but I believe it's made by Murray built between 1992-2001.

You need to clean your carb, put a rebuild kit in for $4, or buy a Chinese carb. I did a post not long ago on rebuilding carbs.

You can also buy a starter for that motor. I have one, it's nice but not necessary.

You should be using synthetic oil.

Use silicone on the cables.

You can download the manuals for free.

It is a heavy machine. I plan to put wheels on mine. I have the original John Deere, 1983, 1032.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Silicone...check.
Synthetic oil...check.
Starter...absolutely!
Carb rebuild...another good idea.

I think I may sell this this summer and check out an American built JD. Believe it or not, I was going to have one shipped up from Illinois until the seller contacted me. It would have cost me around $500, but I'd have a real John Deere.

I am going to go out and chew up some snow. Current conditions are really crusty, but deep snow.
 

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Can't really say that "Everything worx as it should" IF it takes 50 pulls to start that pig. For $750 I'd have driven a nbice working unit up there for you. And show you how to use it!!! But these guys are pointing you in the right direction as far as maintenance goes. Although maybe some WD-40* on the cables due to inclement weather up there???

GLuck Jay
 

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Do not buy an original John Deere! Though they are beasts, very well built, 16" impeller, heavy auger, cast iron gear box, you can't get parts for them. The old Simplicity are good, but buy a Honda or an Ariens.
 

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Do not buy an original John Deere! Though they are beasts, very well built, 16" impeller, heavy auger, cast iron gear box, you can't get parts for them. The old Simplicity are good, but buy a Honda or an Ariens.
Seriously an ignorant post:icon-thumbsdown:. JD never made 16" impellers. The old school JD's were well made and still have parts available. TRS indicates Murray wheeled, TRX is Murray tracked. Murray is now owned by Briggs and plenty of parts are available. They are not high end snowblowers, but you got what you got. Advising someone that already has something to buy a different one makes no sense to me? If you add in the fact he's in ALASKA????
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Will get pics tomorrow.

I have found no free downloadable manuals for this rig. Can you give me a helpful hint?

Thanks.
 

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Seriously an ignorant post:icon-thumbsdown:. JD never made 16" impellers. The old school JD's were well made and still have parts available. TRS indicates Murray wheeled, TRX is Murray tracked. Murray is now owned by Briggs and plenty of parts are available. They are not high end snowblowers, but you got what you got. Advising someone that already has something to buy a different one makes no sense to me? If you add in the fact he's in f-ing ALASKA????
JT you are right about my JD does not have a 16" impeller, it has a 12" impeller with a 16" auger blade.

I don't own a Murray made John Deere but a real John Deere. I know nothing about parts availability for a Murray made JD and was referencing the parts availability for the real John Deere made snowblowers. My local John Deere dealer has told me parts are slim and those that are available are expensive. The Parts Manager advised me to sell my 1032 while it was still running perfectly.

If you reread my posts and his posts, I re-read them, he said this summer he was thinking about selling his Murray made JD, not me! And he said he was going to buy a real John Deere, not me! I advised him to not to do this because of parts availability for the old real John Deere made snowblowers based on what my local dealer told me! I advised him to buy an Ariens for the well built, dependability, and parts availability all because he WAS in Alaska. I do not think it's a good idea to go out and buy a 30 year old machine that it's difficult to get parts for and I advised him against that. Re-read mine and his posts you will see this.
 

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I wish you wouldn't have thrown all that money away on a POS Murray Built machine. And I can call them a POS because I work on them! Heck I own a TRS32 that I donated to my church. Replace fuel & primer line, replace the carb with an adjustable, "cheap Chinese" thing is jsut fine, I've used them and they work great. Do not rebuilt. Run 5W30 full synthetic oil if you are up in Alaska. Maybe add a dash of ZDDP additive as well. Check over the auger, the auger oil or grease, whatever is in there... replace both the auger & drive belts, and pray that nothing gives out when you use it next time. Oh and start saving up to get yourself a real blower as has already been recommended. Ariens or Honda. Ariens will do you just fine, and save you $$$ vs the Honda. **** even consider a plastic toro.
 

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:welcome: to SBF TheChemist

All JD parts are expensive, IMHO ;) There's something about painting a parts yellow and green that's considered added vlaue !!
I always try to cross over anything I can to see if it's a MTD, murray, briggs, ... whatever as some parts like bearings and seals are common and see if it's on Ebay, Amazon or any or the lawn and garden sites. It's the only way I can keep two JD riders going and restoring a JD 1032. But if it's a real JD, sometimes you have to deal with the devil (dealer).

Their web site is great for finding part numbers and the drawings. John Deere - Parts Catalog
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Good Lord, I ignited a feces storm here. How's this: is a red-head better, or a blond? My '01 Dodge 3/4T 4x4 will eat your Found On Road Dead truck. Alice Cooper or the Beatles? If it ain't Boeing, I ain't going...or Airbus? I might as well get something serious going. :(

Look, Home Depot and Lowe's are the only real sources of blowers. Lowe's has Husky and after reading the reviews on them, especially the one that eats belts in 10 minutes or less, I wasn't going to get one of them. Home Depot had an Ariens that was $2000.00. I wasn't going to get one of them either.
Now...I live in Bethel, a small 'burg of 4000 along the Kuskowkim River, 90 miles from the Bering Sea. From the middle of September to mid-May, the only way in is by air. From mid-May to September the river is open and we have barges come in once a week. So ordering something heavy is an exercise in patience. Both the Depot and Lowe's have "Bush Order" departments, but they are so busy it is hard to get a hold of someone, they have to find the product (which is usually at another store), and finally get it out to you. It can take all day.
Yeah, I had some money to spend, about $500.00. I looked at the used-up machines on Craigslist and Alaskaslist.com and was unable to find anything except that 826. Everything else was...used-up. A couple of Jap machines for $2k but I didn't want to spend that kind of dough.
EBay has plenty of machines for a good price. Some look pretty good. I read on here about the 826 about its' quality. So there, I wanted the JD. This guy calls on the 1032 and I bought it, I had no idea this was not a real JD as my Blower-Fu is weak.

So there. Stop arguing in my thread, and someone give me a link to those FREE manuals! Please.
 

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jacks small engines did have a special on a 1028 for $1199 with no taxes, free shipping ( not sure bout Alaska ) and a 3 year warranty.

my neighbor got one and he loves it.

you may have to wait till summer to get a good deal from someone moving back to the lower 48.

do you have any pics of your property and can I come for a visit? I love that show "Living Alaska "
 

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Funny thing, a friend of mine just called. He's giving me a JD TRZ826. It's a little beat and needs a belt.

I get to see what this abomination to the John Deere name is like in person. :wink:

Perfect timing to, another friends father in law is looking for a spare blower.
 

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Funny thing, a friend of mine just called. He's giving me a JD TRZ826. It's a little beat and needs a belt.

I get to see what this abomination to the John Deere name is like in person. :wink:

Perfect timing to, another friends father in law is looking for a spare blower.
DrM - I have a real John Deere, 1983, 1032, it's a beast, negative, I have to extend the chute, way too short. I have a Murray built Craftsman 10/29, which I love, well balanced, and a 8hp Murray for sale, among others for sale. JD when they switched to Murray had nothing but problems and complaints. Some dealers even took them back. I've have those 2 Murrays and sold a 5hp, and they were fine machines. I don't understand why, what the problem was. Yours is either a Murray or a Ariens.
 
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