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Discussion Starter #1
Did an Impeller Seal, and Chute Upgrade on a First Series I have. Throwing Angle is Like Night and Day. The Vid is of a Few Inches of Frozen Snow.
I used a Craftsman Chute I had kicking around. https://vimeo.com/382492320
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Very nice. Would love to see it with some decent snow but Mother Nature doesn't always cooperate.

I Will Repost a New Vid When We Get Some More Snow.
 

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Impeller seal, taller chute and a Predator - better than some NEW machines. Nice job Jack.
 

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It looks like a mid to late 90s Murray-made chute. It was most recently discussed here and here

Sears went cheap in the early 2000s and went with a shorter plastic chute instead. I've snagged a few of the earlier Craftsman snowblowers if they are cheap enough, just to scavenge those metal chutes.
 

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agree

I have two exact same Honda HS80's. One with impeller kit and one without. a couple weeks ago we had about 4 inches of wet /slushy snow. One blower was practically useless and the other threw snow 10-15 feet.

every blower gets a kit now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Craftsman Chute, DB130 Called it.... My Welder Needs a New Feed Cable, so I did a "Bolt On" Installation. Toro Powershift Chutes are Do-able as well.
 

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Cool jack...like the chute mod. and vid.! Look forward to your next vid. when we get a good strom around here.

Too funny I just finally just got an impeller kit and have a newer Simplicity long Chute to be put on so the small white chute will be gone soon. Look forward to installing impeller kit but was wondering if you guys have recommendations in your installing one???? Very appreciative fellas on any feed back or suggestions/tips you've encountered installing one(impeller kit)!!!!
 

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I use the 4 inch baler belting from TS, I slice it into 2.75 inch widths for Ariens machines, I get the 1 inch flat stock that is perforated with 3/8 holes from Home depot and cut it just shy of the 4 inch. I clamp the perforated metal on the edge of the belting and drill 2 5/16 hole in the belting. I take the chute off and jam a screwdriver between the impeller and housing to stop the impeller from moving, then with a long drill bit place the belting in the right position on the impeller blade, mark the holes, then take the rubber off and drill the impeller. Sandwich the rubber between the flat stock and impeller and bolt on with 5/16 x 1 bolts and I use nylon lock nuts. Spin the impeller to the next flat and repeat. I only do two out of four impellers now, as it seems to work as good for me as all four.
 

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I use the 4 inch baler belting from TS, I slice it into 2.75 inch widths for Ariens machines, I get the 1 inch flat stock that is perforated with 3/8 holes from Home depot and cut it just shy of the 4 inch. I clamp the perforated metal on the edge of the belting and drill 2 5/16 hole in the belting. I take the chute off and jam a screwdriver between the impeller and housing to stop the impeller from moving, then with a long drill bit place the belting in the right position on the impeller blade, mark the holes, then take the rubber off and drill the impeller. Sandwich the rubber between the flat stock and impeller and bolt on with 5/16 x 1 bolts and I use nylon lock nuts. Spin the impeller to the next flat and repeat. I only do two out of four impellers now, as it seems to work as good for me as all four.
Thanks Cranman appreciate your knowledge!!! Like the screwdriver idea when doing so.
Specific Drill bit for Cutting into impeller metal???
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I picked up a set of Bosch Drill Bits at Lowe's. Stayed Sharper Longer than Anything Else I've Ever Used.
 

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I went to home Depot and got the Dewalt long bit...about 12 inches not expensive.....I have to sharpen it about every other hole...not great steel, but I'm good at sharpening, LOL.......
Cran & Jack,

Do you guys just drill the holes with the long bit and go right to bolting on the kit or do you use the self tapping screws as well and then bolt on????? My kit has self tapping screws as well?????

Is that just to provide another option or???? with a socket driver if you do not have a bit????
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I use a regular Drill bit, and use 1/4" Hardware. There's Plenty of Room Once You Remove the Chute. I used to use the perforated Metal to "Sandwich" the Baling Belt, but I now just use Large Washers. After attaching One, Spray Impeller Area with PB Blaster or WD, and then Start engine, and Slowly Engage The Auger to break it in. Rinse and Repeat. Let us Know How things work out. Maybe We'll Get some Snow to Test it Out....
 

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I use a regular Drill bit, and use 1/4" Hardware. There's Plenty of Room Once You Remove the Chute. I used to use the perforated Metal to "Sandwich" the Baling Belt, but I now just use Large Washers. After attaching One, Spray Impeller Area with PB Blaster or WD, and then Start engine, and Slowly Engage The Auger to break it in. Rinse and Repeat. Let us Know How things work out. Maybe We'll Get some Snow to Test it Out....

You said it Brother Jack....Maybe some snow this Saturday!!!! Thanks for your tips....Like it.

Do you butt them up against the edge impeller housing or back off a spec???
 

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You said it Brother Jack....Maybe some snow this Saturday!!!! Thanks for your tips....Like it.

Do you butt them up against the edge impeller housing or back off a spec???

When I Do Seals they Lightly Touch the "Tightest" spot on the Impeller Wall. I Use Lube to Break it in. (That's with Bailing Belt).
 
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