This is way over my skill level - I'm not at all mechanical ("man's got to know his limitations .."), so no way I'm going to do all this. Can you advise a "snowblower summer storage prep for dummies," please? :crying:NO,
because your fuel is still going to vacuum up/attract any moisture that
will enter the breather hole in the gas tank cap.
Use fluid film or PB blaster to lube the control linkages for the snow blower.
Do you know if you have a friction disc for the wheel drive or a snow blower transmission??? You need to find this out.
If you are comfortable doing the work and have good hand tools and a spark plug wrench and a good wedge type gapping tool you can do it all yourself.
Spare parts you should have on hand WHERE YOU will remember they are.
1. V belts
a.Put both of the V belts in a black plastic garbage bag and put a tag or a piece of tape on the bag and write on the bag what it contains and tape the bag to a wall where you will see it. The black plastic bag helps protect the V belt from the ozone in the air.
2. spark plug.
a. tape the zip lock bag containing the spark plug box on the wall next to the V belt bag.
3. shear pins purchase at least 6 and tape the zip lock bag of shear pins on the wall with the other spare parts.
4. spare fuel filter tape it to the wall with the other parts.
1. drain all the fuel into a waste oil can or a standard gas can to use in another
machine like a lawn mower if you have one.
2. close the choke and start the engine and let it run, when it dies again repeat closing the
choke and starting the engine.
3. drain the fuel bowl of any remaining fuel by removing the drain plug
4. reinstall the drain plug
a. change the fuel filter if it has one with a new clear plastic fuel filter
5. drain the old crank case oil and pour in new motor oil to replace the old oil you drained out.
6. reinstall oil drain plug
7. purchase some Irish Spring bar soap and put one bar at the base of the engine and the other bar
on top of the engine by the air intake box.
a. purchase a spray can of cable lube to lube the sheathed cables to keep them lubed up over the summer and fall months
b. raise the snow blower up and but some wooden blocks under it to keep the tires of the ground during the off season to
prevent them from flat spotting.
9. wait until the late fall and pour in fresh gas with some seafoam fuel treatment
=======================================================================This is way over my skill level - I'm not at all mechanical ("man's got to know his limitations .."), so no way I'm going to do all this. Can you advise a "snowblower summer storage prep for dummies," please? :crying:
2) provide lubrication to the engine intake/exhaust/cylinder internals, so they don't rust during the off-season.
Stabilizer can keep the fuel from causing problems. Non-ethanol fuels can also help in that regard.
Fogging oil can provide the internal lubrication
I usually mix up a 'summerizing' 'cocktail' of fuel, stabilzer and 2-cycle oil . . . and run it through the engines for about 15 minutes.
Fogging oil you can remove the spark plug and spray it in the cylinder, or as the engine is "dying" give a squirt into the carburetor throat.The 2 cycle oil IS the fogging oil, works well and much cheaper
Its easy to get the 2 cycle oil in. Just add to the fuel, and run the engine until it starts blowing smoke.Fogging oil you can remove the spark plug and spray it in the cylinder, or as the engine is "dying" give a squirt into the carburetor throat.
How do you get the 2 cycle oil in? Remove the spark plug? If so, then why not give a squirt of dino or synthetic oil and pull the crank a few times to distribute the oil into the cylinder.
Yup, leaves a nice sticky coat of oil over everything inside the engine. Fall you just run normal gas and it softens right up with engine heat and desolves into the fresh gas.Its easy to get the 2 cycle oil in. Just add to the fuel, and run the engine until it starts blowing smoke.