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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there. Blower is from 1981, Canadian tire “brand” with a tecumseh HM80 155734n, maybe 7n.

Ran great until a few years ago when I left fuel over the winter, no stabilizer. Paid for a carb rebuild and it ran great until last year.
Last year would not start. Ended up being a cracked primer line. Replaced line and all was good until now.

Since themrebuild I’ve always **** off fuel line after use, and completely run dry/empty fuel tank for the summer. Sea foam in every gas can fill up. Fuel is kept up to 6 months.

This year would not start. Took off carb bowl. Full of crap. Cleaned out/sprayed everything with carb clean. Started up but quotes after a few minutes. Today again took off carb bowl. Little particles. Emptied tank, cleaned bowl, etc and put 4ozs sea foam, and 8oz fuel into tank, and primed carb. Letting it sit over night.

If it still won’t run........ do,I try fixing (replace carb and fuel lines?) not sure where the crud is coming from.

Or do I buy new? I’m thinking an Ariens Platinum efi.

I’ve had this blower since 1981 so it literally owes me nothing. Not one dime.

The efi arians seems nice. No more carb issues (I,thought I’ve done everything,right) not sure what else I can do?

And I’d have a more powerful blower.

Thoughts?
 

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I myself think if your Canadian lasted this long time to treat yourself to a new blower. I had my old Craftsman for 19 years and upgraded. In my pea brain one does not marry a blower so 28 years you were a great couple.
 

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I would start at the tank clean it and flush it. replace fuel lines including primer lines and bulb as they can be deteriorating on the inside and if possible install an inline filter. Order a new carb for $20.00 and install everything all at the same time.

Now this is something to think about, you can replace the entire fuel delivery set up on this engine for under $30.00.
You mentioned a EFI unit and no more carb problems, you may want to look up part prices for EFIs before you jump that fence to greener pastures.
 

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Fuel storage to me is where to start diagnosing. You seem to be keep getting bad/dirty fuel to the carb. I worked my way back from the carb to resolve my gas issues.

To me...fuel line may be eroding from inside - that'd be my first hunch. However, "little particles"...to me, the source is 3 things.

Storage tank for gas - dust/dirt (or rust), insects making more insects in the neck, etc
Gas tank on blower - it receives it's gas from one source, but can also be the source itself
Fuel line - they do go bad

1981 blower - ever changed the fuel line? Is the tank steel? Are you storing the gas in a plastic container or steel and is the container capped (nothing from outside can get in)?

To me...solving particles in a carb is a LOT cheaper than a new blower. I speak from experience. Both my "inherited machines" from my father/brother...they were using a 50+ year old steel 5 gallon gas tank that my brother was filling full. The gas would not get used up for years...wasn't ever treated etc. Go figure...all their lawn mowers and snowblowers always had fuel issues. The last time they got the carb rebuilt, the repairman wrote on the invoice "rust particles in gas tank".

I inherited the blowers (one has a darn near 50 year old steel tank that I still use today). I again had to rebuild both carbs but I also changed out both fuel lines (they both were the original 40+ year old lines) and used clean gas to clean out anything in them (then recycled that gas) and then after they dried I sprayed compressed air in them to blow anything remaining in them. I also use plastic 1 gallon containers that have caps on them to keep out spiders/bugs, dust and dirt.

Never had a gas issue since with both blowers.

A new fuel line is $5. A new plastic gas tank is $30 (if you have a steel tank) - or if plastic, simply remove the tank emptying the gas out of it completely and clean the inside thoroughly. If you're using an older steel storage container, plastic fuel containers are ridiculously cheap.

Whereas a complete new snowblower no matter what will probably be at the very absolute least 10x what you might spend resolving the current issue(s).

I've gotten very anal about my gas "process" this past year. I've overhauled my entire "supply chain" because I discovered that old gas is not better than new no matter how well any treatment is. I also discovered even a simple plastic gas container...you'd be amazed at how much dust and dirt and bugs can get in those things if they are not capped.

Heck, I even zip tie a coffee filter on it's spout and make sure my funnel is completely clean before I fill my blowers/mowers now. And I always buy my pump gas via a debit carb (for the receipt) and pin the receipt up on my shed wall so I know when I bought that gas in the container.

I'm tired of taking carbs apart. I have noticed once I began being anal about it, the issues with fuel have disappeared.
 
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If you want to fix it, you probably can for cheap. A new carburetor from Amazon for around $15, and new fuel lines, will probably make a big difference.
 

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It's worth fixing. An hour or two of repairs is easier than running around shopping for a new machine and you might bring the old girl back to life. No better feeling than that. But if you're fed up and really want something new and shiny - by all means go on out and get that new machine. You deserve it after all these years of work to keep that Canadian Tire blower going.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies so far!

To answer a few questions......

Fuel tank is plastic , and other than a carb “kit” rebuild everything is factory 1981 original.

I understand the fuel thing. Up until 2013 I used untreated fuel and just used the fuel shutoff after use, and drained tank for summer.

Since the carb rebuild I e used treat fuel (seafoam) and shutoff valve after use, and drain for summer.

My process hasn’t changed so I’m wondering if it’s more than carb related, or is fuel just getting worse? The fuel was in the blower for about 3 months but it’s always been that way.

My jerry can is the spill proof one,from fleet farm. It’s got a green button on it. Easy pour or something. It’s got a cap on the spout.

I will replace,carb, and fuel lines.

How would i go about cleaning fuel tank?
 

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I will replace,carb, and fuel lines.

How would i go about cleaning fuel tank?
When you have the fuel line and air shroud off unbolt the tank to clean it with gas or something and drain it out and let dry well. You should be able to check it pretty good with a flashlight. The cheap carbs for <$15 really work well, so find the right one and get that. You might need to swap out the choke and/or throttle lever from your original carb but that is fairly easy to do. I recently put a $12 carb on a 50 yr old Ariens and it sprang to life & ran perfect.
 

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Lots of opinions on this front, but IMO, Seafoam is a product that tries to do it all, but isn't a specialist in anything. I use something that's just a stabilizer (StaBil Marine, in my case).

Your fuel practices seem pretty reasonable to me. I would switch to an "official" stabilizer, if it were me. Maybe your fuel lines are degrading, given their age. Though that wouldn't explain finding gunk in the carb, only black bits of rubber.

Even if you chose to replace the machine, a $20 carb & fuel lines replacement would probably help the current machine's resale value significantly, if you got it running normally again.

For cleaning the tank, you could remove the tank, slosh clean gas (or maybe rubbing alcohol, etc) around in it, and dump it. Or, without removing the tank, maybe disconnect the line from the carb, aim it into a bucket, and flush the tank with some clean gas.

If you don't already have one, I'd definitely install an appropriate fuel filter between the tank and carb. Just make sure to use a filter for gravity-fed machines (not engines with fuel pumps). The gravity systems use a filter with a looser mesh, to reduce the restriction to fuel flow. Like this, 150 micron (smaller microns mean tighter filtering, but not enough fuel flow without a fuel pump):
https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-Filter-Micron-5018K/dp/B00004RB1A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ya the “junk” in the carb don’t appear to be black rubber, but I’ll change out the lines. It’s cheap and I’ll have everything apart anyways.

As for the carb, how specific do I need to be?
If it’s hm80 compatable is that enough? I,can’t read all of the numbers/letters due to age of the machine (rust). I cleaned it up with a wire brush and still can’t read everything.

Ready to place amazon order, just want to confirm exact fit. The one I think fits has two screws on the bowl. My current one has only one. I’m guessing the secon d screw is a fuel drain?

How hard are these things to,adjust? I.e the spring/screw on the bottom, etc. I’ve always,taken the bowl off and never fiddles with any adjustments.
 

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I haven't bought a replacement Tecumseh carb, so hopefully other people can chime in. If it says for HMSK80, and looks like yours, I'd think that's a pretty good start, at least.

I would definitely buy an adjustable carb, rather than a fixed jet. It will probably be adjusted OK from the box, but if needs a little more gas, or a little less, you just give one screw a small twist.

This one is adjustable, which you can tell because it has a screw in the bottom center of the bowl (and because it says it's adjustable):
https://www.amazon.com/QAZAKY-Carburetor-Tecumseh-Snowblower-Adjustable-x/dp/B078BBMW3Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8

It also has a bowl drain, which is great for fully emptying the carb for storage (gets more gas out of the carb than just running it until it dies). The drain is the brass spring-loaded "plunger", which is offset towards the side of the bowl.
 

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As for the carb, how specific do I need to be?
If it’s hm80 compatable is that enough? I,can’t read all of the numbers/letters due to age of the machine (rust)
Look for one that has a similar choke lever setup as the one you have and also the throttle plate where the governor rod hooks up to find one similar if possible. The main high speed mixture jet on the bottom is good to get vs a fixed one and is easy to adjust. Once the engine is running and at full throttle, open (counterclockwise) the mixture screw till it starts to run a bit rough and then the other way back in until it runs steady/full again. Then, adjust the idle speed screw as needed to your preferences. Typically I've not had to adjust the idle mixture screw on replacement carbs as they come with reasonable preset.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just ordered the adjustable one,with drain. To drain, do you unscrew, or just push up on the “screw”?

In the past I’ve just run dry, then take off bowl and dump/wipe.

I just don’t understand why I’m having issues if I’ve done,all the right things? Bad fuel two in a row?
 

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You just push up on the spring-loaded "screw" to drain it.

Good call with removing the bowl and wiping it out.

In that scenario, I should think nothing would get worse during the off-season. There's nothing in there to degrade.

If you just closed a fuel shutoff for the off-season, perhaps the shutoff is leaking, and letting gas back into the carb?

I don't know what could mess up your carb again, with the precautions you're describing. I use stabilizer, and close the fuel shutoff at the end of the season, running the carb dry. I have not had issues with this approach.
 

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Just ordered the adjustable one,with drain. To drain, do you unscrew, or just push up on the “screw”?

In the past I’ve just run dry, then take off bowl and dump/wipe.

I just don’t understand why I’m having issues if I’ve done,all the right things? Bad fuel two in a row?
Logic states it's something in common with each occurrence. Fuel line, tank, source of filling the tank, or fuel itself.

If there's any doubt whatsoever on the fuel line, change it out - especially if it's the original line. Just do it, they're inexpensive.

What I'd do with the gas tank is when you clean it out, remove it completely and drain it into a clear glass container straining it via a coffee filter - then see if the filter caught anything. If it did...then say fill it a quarter tank full with gas. Then plug up all openings (cap and line plug)...and swish it around for a full minute like you're mixing a martini shaker. Then pour the tank strained just like the first time and see what you get. I let it dry out completely, then using an air compressor I blow it out upside down thoroughly.

Chances are, it'll be clean after that.

So that's fuel line and fuel tank. Next is the gas storage container. Me personally...I have seen my tanks have bugs in them like box elders and Japanese beetles. I've seen cocoon type things in the spout. I've ran them down to just about empty and using a flashlight I'll swish it around into the light and I've seen black floaters galore in them (I then clean it out exactly the same as above). This is why I now filter my source container. Refueling takes longer, but it's not like I have 3 gallons to pour every time either.

Fuel itself...about all I try to do is always buy ethanol free pump gas...and in my area 91 octane is readily available. I don't skimp on gas for my small engines ever, I buy the best stuff I can find and only from one location. And again, I simply do not keep a whole lot of gas on hand. The convenience store is 3 minutes away. There's no need to keep any more than 1 gallon.
 

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In addition to what the others said about cleaning/renewing the old fuel system, after 38 years I'd treat myself to a new Ariens, but not the EFI model, and keep the old one for a spare. From reading posts here, when the EFI works, it's terrific. But when it doesn't work, hope it is under warranty or bring lots of $$$$ and have lots of time, so you'll need the old one.

If buying new I'd get the carburetor model. There is little to be gained with EFI other than "Hey, that's neat!" over the carburetor model. I think they'll even rated the same amount of snow per hour so other than the "wow" factor I don't see the gain.

Signed,
Old fuddy-duddy
 

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Fuel itself...about all I try to do is always buy ethanol free pump gas...and in my area 91 octane is readily available. I don't skimp on gas for my small engines ever, I buy the best stuff I can find and only from one location. And again, I simply do not keep a whole lot of gas on hand. The convenience store is 3 minutes away. There's no need to keep any more than 1 gallon.
If the 91 is ethanol-free, that's awesome. If it still has ethanol, the benefit of 91 is debatable for small 4-stroke engines.

Only keeping a gallon on-hand is a great way to minimize the time is sits around. I tend to keep more like 5 gallons (stabilized), for better/worse, since I also want to have some available for the generator if it's needed. Especially in winter.

In addition to what the others said about cleaning/renewing the old fuel system, after 38 years I'd treat myself to a new Ariens, but not the EFI model, and keep the old one for a spare. From reading posts here, when the EFI works, it's terrific. But when it doesn't work, hope it is under warranty or bring lots of $$$$ and have lots of time, so you'll need the old one.

If buying new I'd get the carburetor model. There is little to be gained with EFI other than "Hey, that's neat!" over the carburetor model. I think they'll even rated the same amount of snow per hour so other than the "wow" factor I don't see the gain.
Same here, I'd stay with the carb, after seeing some of the recent issues discussed here.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
91 doesn’t mean ethonal free. There is one station that has ethonal free. I’ll start buying it. My gas can is “sealed”. There is no spout, and there is a cap on the pour “stub”. Nonetheless, I’ll check it, and clean it.

Honestly I’ve kept gas for up to 6 months, then dump it in my truck

As to EFI, I think it’s a good thing. Not sure how expensive it will be to fix. Doesn’t matter. I need my blower to start. Period.
 
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