[cswanson6969]

Hi guys, I have a vintage ariens with a 7hp Tecumseh. I tried to blow about 6 in of very wet, heavy snow and it bogged down and stalled. Afterwards it would not start and has no spark. I’ve been reading about this flywheel key breaking under these circumstances resulting in no spark. If I take the plug out and pull the manual start rope the piston goes up and down. Does that mean that the key is intact? I really don’t want to buy a gear puller if I can avoid it. Thanks for any help.

 

[crazzywolfie]

if the piston goes up and down the then the flywheel key is likely not the issue. depending on how vintage the machine is i would assume the coil or points and condesor may have gone bad if you have no spark. might get lucky and just be able to clean/adjust the points.

 

[cswanson6969]

if the piston goes up and down the then the flywheel key is likely not the issue. depending on how vintage the machine is i would assume the coil or points and condesor may have gone bad if you have no spark. might get lucky and just be able to clean/adjust the points.

Yeah, that’s what I was thinking but it seems strange that the spark disappeared right when it bogged down and stalled. I don’t know the age of the blower. It was repainted and I don’t see any model/ sn info. It ran great up until this. Thanks

 

[Ziggy65]

Try another plug before you tear into it.
You shouldn't need to buy a gear puller for accessing the key, coil, points or condensor.

 

[badbmwbrad]

I had an Ariens with 7 HP Tecumseh that wouldn't run. The piston did stroke up/down but the flywheel key was indeed sheared. The flywheel is tightly installed on a tapered shaft and secured with a big nut.

Let us know when you're ready to remove the flywheel and instructions will be provided.

 

[cswanson6969]

I had an Ariens with 7 HP Tecumseh that wouldn't run. The piston did stroke up/down but the flywheel key was indeed sheared. The flywheel is tightly installed on a tapered shaft and secured with a big nut.

Let us know when you're ready to remove the flywheel and instructions will be provided.

Yes, it seems like the timing of loss of spark points to that key being sheared. I’ve watched a couple youtube videos and it looks like all I need is an impact wrench and gear puller, right?

 

[vangasman]

Never had a key shear but wouldn't it still spark, just at the wrong time?

 

[RIT333]

I agree on the fact that a spark should still happen, just not when needed. Sounds like possible a bad plug, bad kill switch, bad coil, or bad plug wire...to name a few possibilities.

 

[Toon]

A flywheel key sheared off is usually the result of an impact or sudden stop of the engine not from a load change. Look for the usual suspects of a bad plug, a loose spark plug wire, a bad wire to the on/off key switch, a low oil sensor (if equipped) and possibly a bad coil.

 

[badbmwbrad]

You don't need either of those tools. Insert a really large flat-tipped screwdriver between the flywheel vanes and some part of the snowblower frame. Hopefully it's a cast-iron flywheel and otherwise be careful to not impact the nut wrench with any kind of hammer etc. when loosening the flywheel hold-down nut.

Loosen the flywheel nut until it is about one full thread above the crankshaft-end. The nut protects the crankshaft threads but it might be sacrificed in the next step. Replacement nuts are cheap.

There is a small amount of axial end-play in the crankshaft. Insert the screwdriver beneath the flywheel and very gently pry the flywheel outwards (away from crankcase to take up the axial end-play. Maintain slight prying force on the screwdriver and strike the flywheel nut with a hammer. Rotate the flywheel maybe half-way around, pry it outwards again and strike the nut with hammer. Repeat as required.

Yes, it seems like the timing of loss of spark points to that key being sheared. I’ve watched a couple youtube videos and it looks like all I need is an impact wrench and gear puller, right?

 

[cswanson6969]

Thanks for all the input guys.

 

[UNDERTAKER]

ALOHA!!!!!

 

[SnowMonster]

You won’t have loss of spark from a sheared flywheel key, just a spark timing issue. Bogging down in heavy snow isn’t the same as sudden engine stoppage. This shouldn’t shear the key. You should probably check the primary coil lead (kill wire). If the kill wire shorted to ground anywhere, it would kill the spark. Check the length of the wire and the kill switches at the throttle off position and key switch if you have one. Even excessive moisture at a switch can kill the spark...you were in heavy snow when it shut down. Maybe blow everything off with compressed air in that kill wire area. You can always remove the kill wire from the coil to test for a short. You have to choke out the engine to kill it with the kill wire removed. Just something else to consider. Good luck

 

[cswanson6969]

Mystery solved! I got the flywheel off w/o gear puller and found sheared key. Took pictures but can’t figure out how to put them in post. Any suggestions where to get a new one?

 

[cswanson6969]

 

[Toon]

Your broken key looks strange as one half is longer than the other. Measure the key width with a vernier or micrometer, and your local hardware store should sell key stock. Harbor Freight might even have a package with assorted key sizes so you will have some spares. There are SAE and metric sizes so make sure you measure correctly as a loose key will damage the crankshaft and flywheel.

 

[kshansen]

Your broken key looks strange as one half is longer than the other. Measure the key width with a vernier or micrometer, and your local hardware store should sell key stock. Harbor Freight might even have a package with assorted key sizes so you will have some spares. There are SAE and metric sizes so make sure you measure correctly as a loose key will damage the crankshaft and flywheel.

Seems like any good small engine shop should have some of those keys, then again it has been a few years since I tried to buy Tecumseh parts!

Actually I believe that is a Woodruff key also know as a Halfmoon key the Tecumseh number should be 32589, but I'm thinking any hardware store would be able to match it up if you took the broken parts with you!

Here is a link to give you a better idea what I think it is:

TE-32589

Item SpecificationsTecumsehShipping Rate Weight: .01Product Condition: New

www.smallenginewarehouse.com

 

[Toon]

Seems like any good small engine shop should have some of those keys, then again it has been a few years since I tried to buy Tecumseh parts!

Actually I believe that is a Woodruff key also know as a Halfmoon key the Tecumseh number should be 32589, but I'm thinking any hardware store would be able to match it up if you took the broken parts with you!

Here is a link to give you a better idea what I think it is:

TE-32589

Item SpecificationsTecumsehShipping Rate Weight: .01Product Condition: New

www.smallenginewarehouse.com

I would think that if the original key was a woodruff key one of the two halves would have a rounded profile.
It is possible because of the two different lengths of the broken key that it might be this one, but I don't have a machine here with a Tecumseh engine to verify this. Perhaps one of the Gurus can help.

 

[tabora]

Any suggestions where to get a new one?

Perhaps this one?

Tecumseh 610995 Flywheel Key Fly Wheel Crankshaft Key *Fast Free Shipping* | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Tecumseh 610995 Flywheel Key Fly Wheel Crankshaft Key *Fast Free Shipping* at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[cswanson6969]

I would think that if the original key was a woodruff key one of the two halves would have a rounded profile.
It is possible because of the two different lengths of the broken key that it might be this one, but I don't have a machine here with a Tecumseh engine to verify this. Perhaps one of the Gurus can help.
View attachment 210858

That’s the one. Got one at an ariens dealer and replaced it. Still won’t start. Cranked it 20 time, took plug out and it wasn’t wet. Must be carb problem too.