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Discussion Starter #1
Last March I purchased a new 28" Ariens Pro which was delivered to my driveway. I took the wrapping off, connect the two rod ends......the only assembly required and pushed it into my garage. No......made no attempt to start it but that time is getting closer.
There are two other things that I am contemplating to purchase before a snow storm. First item....chains! My driveway is sloped and the other is a cab to keep the snow off me when operating it. Open to comments on both the chains and the cab.....do cabs come in different models?

Thanks-
 

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Last March I purchased a new 28" Ariens Pro which was delivered to my driveway. I took the wrapping off, connect the two rod ends......the only assembly required and pushed it into my garage. No......made no attempt to start it but that time is getting closer.
There are two other things that I am contemplating to purchase before a snow storm. First item....chains! My driveway is sloped and the other is a cab to keep the snow off me when operating it. Open to comments on both the chains and the cab.....do cabs come in different models?

Thanks-
I dont think you will need chains
you will need a 20lb weight kit with the cab
Check make sure the bucket is square then adjust scrapper
Poly shoes maybe
Check max rpms to make sure they are right i think they set them low to avoid engine issues
impeller kit
let it eat
 

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Last March I purchased a new 28" Ariens Pro which was delivered to my driveway. I took the wrapping off, connect the two rod ends......the only assembly required and pushed it into my garage. No......made no attempt to start it but that time is getting closer.
There are two other things that I am contemplating to purchase before a snow storm. First item....chains! My driveway is sloped and the other is a cab to keep the snow off me when operating it. Open to comments on both the chains and the cab.....do cabs come in different models?

Thanks-
did you check oil? not sure , but i think they are shipped dry. correct if wrong.
 

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I was checking mine everytime the 1st year but it never changed now its every 3rd use

it annoys me when engines burn oil
Same bs car dealer say burning a quart every 1000 miles is not and issue not a warranty issue

good engines shoudnt burn oil
 

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Engines shouldn't burn a lot of oil and shouldn't just start to burn oil, but some engines are tighter with oil than others by design. Higher performance stuff tends to burn a little more oil when perfectly healthy due to certain tolerances having to be a little looser to tolerate being run hard while being pushed to the limit power wise. In cars, I'd call a quart every 1000 excessive. But for some engine designs, a quart every 2500 is perfectly normal when run hard and every single one of those engines will burn that from day 1. Others never seem to use a drop no matter what you do.

Personally, I check not because I expect the oil level to change, but so that I notice and can find the problem (leak or otherwise) ASAP if it does change, hopefully before the issue causes any damage.
 

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my hi perf engines didnt burn oil even running nitrous on them

properly built and good ring seating they should not burn very lil to none
1/4 quart of less in 3 to 5k
some do burn from day 1 the poorly built motors
thats why they have the 1 quart per 1000 miles bs from the dealers

if some motors burn zero in 2500 miles then a quart in 2500 is trouble as well
ill take the zero burn engine ty
iam very happy my lct 414cc was full when i changed it
my hm80 gets checked every use that turns 3725 rpm and can go to 3800 for eod if needed
i keep that a ch over full mark as it uses a lil oil but its very old
using a quart in a car after 100k miles isnt a big deal
it is if the if the rings are seated and the car only has low miles imo
 

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If your high perf stuff was mostly American V8s, that's probably why. Most of those don't tend to burn oil if built and broken in properly and not left loose and sloppy during the build. On the other hand, high revving European engines tend to consume some oil no matter what. Just a matter of differences in design, etc.
 

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I was checking mine everytime the 1st year but it never changed now its every 3rd use

it annoys me when engines burn oil
Same bs car dealer say burning a quart every 1000 miles is not and issue not a warranty issue

good engines shoudnt burn oil
Was at the Honda dealer the other day. None of them have oil in when when uncrated. Also I read an article that was linked here on The SBF that oil use is related on how the motor is broken in. ring seating.

Now the Honda factory , I think , states that the oil should be changed after 10 hours when new? or was it 5 hours? if done too soon would that disturb the rings seating properly? like anything else , you get conflicting information on the computer. There should be a separate thread here discussing oil.

sorry, did not mean to change the subject. the dealer told me a couple stories about people trying to save $200 buying direct and NOT checking the oil before using.
 

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Was at the Honda dealer the other day. None of them have oil in when when uncrated. Also I read an article that was linked here on The SBF that oil use is related on how the motor is broken in. ring seating.

Now the Honda factory , I think , states that the oil should be changed after 10 hours when new? or was it 5 hours? if done too soon would that disturb the rings seating properly? like anything else , you get conflicting information on the computer. There should be a separate thread here discussing oil.

sorry, did not mean to change the subject. the dealer told me a couple stories about people trying to save $200 buying direct and NOT checking the oil before using.



for myself i woudnt wait even 5 hours i thought it was 5 hours
Engine builders break in and engine on the dyno and change it before making a full wot run to whats in the oil
I would run it 45 min myself then change it and see what it looks like and look for metal if it looked clean i would then run it for another 4 or so hours then put in full synthetic and be done
 

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For small engines without a filter, I generally change the oil at 2 hours, 5 hours and 10 hours, then as long as the 10 hour dump looks good with no visible break in particles I'll pick up a normal change schedule from there.

For break in, definitely don't baby it. I tend not to go WOT or max RPM right away (although max RPM is pretty much unavoidable on small engines). Moderate load is good to help get the rings seated.
 

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I don't have a cab, my neighbor does, and I'm not really a fan of them after watching him. It seems to add a bit of difficulty in storing, maneuvering, and just using the machine. I guess if your area is quite windy all the time and you have to blow into the wind it's a good idea. I would try it first without the cab or chains. Tire tech is pretty good these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I dont think you will need chains
you will need a 20lb weight kit with the cab
Check make sure the bucket is square then adjust scrapper
Poly shoes maybe
Check max rpms to make sure they are right i think they set them low to avoid engine issues
impeller kit
let it eat
Yes, good suggestions. Not sure about the chains though, I needed them with my old Bowen’s.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don't have a cab, my neighbor does, and I'm not really a fan of them after watching him. It seems to add a bit of difficulty in storing, maneuvering, and just using the machine. I guess if your area is quite windy all the time and you have to blow into the wind it's a good idea. I would try it first without the cab or chains. Tire tech is pretty good these days.
I enjoyed my Bowens 32” for at least 30 years with a cab. That particular cab really helped keep snow from the upper part of my body. I intend to purchase a cab but from what I can see there must be variations of them after looking at the prices.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
did you check oil? not sure , but i think they are shipped dry. correct if wrong.

VERY GOOD SUGGESTION!!! I can understand how someone could ruin a brand new engine because of not checking the oil. But I did right after it was delivered....oil was full. I even checked the oil in the auger gear box. It seem a little low and I added some gear oil to it. That was the one thing that whomever readied my Bowens overlooked. Took some years for things to fail but I had to rebuild the entire gear box including new auger shafts. What a pain!
 

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I enjoyed my Bowens 32” for at least 30 years with a cab. That particular cab really helped keep snow from the upper part of my body. I intend to purchase a cab but from what I can see there must be variations of them after looking at the prices.

I Had the unirversal kit on my 1332 ariens it fit in the garage didnt block the light
it limits where and how close you can get to some things as you know
Iam not sure if it would effect your light or not
I thought about getting one a guy had a used one for 35 bucks on cl but it looked like it would block the light
the universal kit i had was a good one i think the ariens is way to much money
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I Had the unirversal kit on my 1332 ariens it fit in the garage didnt block the light
it limits where and how close you can get to some things as you know
Iam not sure if it would effect your light or not
I thought about getting one a guy had a used one for 35 bucks on cl but it looked like it would block the light
the universal kit i had was a good one i think the ariens is way to much money
Yes, one needs to be sure that whatever it is that gets purchased that it will fit! I really liked the one mounted on my Bowens. The problem was that in order to make it fit, I would have to hack it apart and that convinced me to look for one made for the machine.

I have’nt looked lately although when I did look there seemed to be a wide spread in the prices. I need to get back to my hunt. As far as it causing a compromise to my storage space, I doubt it.
 
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