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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I'm going to look at a 924050 tomorrow that I think might be from the early 80's, but I've a couple of questions that I'm hoping I might get some help with.

The current owner says he thinks the motor is a Briggs. Is this possible/likely? I understood they were all Tecumseh?

The current owner says it does not have the electric start option. Is that a practical retrofit, or did some motors not have ring gear on the flywheel? Obviously that's hard to answer without knowing for sure what the motor is.

Any other general comments about this machine?

Thanks very much.
Doug
 

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Doug,

Original was Tecumseh. I have two 924050's with the original motors. HM80 on SN 40000 and HMSK80 on SN 103000. BUT Tec's were known to break connecting rods. Repower options are anyone's guess. I also have a Briggs 8.5 HP (2005) and pull start is all I need to use on any of them But I don't want to be caught in the cold without an electric start to fall back on. The important part is that your motor starts readily from the pull start. If the price is good, then you should use the money you save to make sure the motor is fully prepped for the next season.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply.

If, indeed, it is the original Tecumseh (and the owner is mistaken about it being a briggs), is the addition of electric start practical?

My goal would certainly be to get it working nicely enough to pull start easily, but I, and I know my wife for sure, would like to have electric as a fall-back. If I do get it, I'll do a proper winter preparation and fix-up.

regards
Doug
 

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Thanks for the reply.

If, indeed, it is the original Tecumseh (and the owner is mistaken about it being a briggs), is the addition of electric start practical?

My goal would certainly be to get it working nicely enough to pull start easily, but I, and I know my wife for sure, would like to have electric as a fall-back. If I do get it, I'll do a proper winter preparation and fix-up.

regards
Doug
If it's a tec the electric start addition is a 10 minute job. Starters run anywhere from $5-70. Engine shojld have a cover plate ipon the side, covering the holes where the starter goes through fan shroud to engage teeth on flywheel. I believe most of those Tecs came with toothed flywheel but there are always exceptions to the rule.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I bought that 924050 this morning and I'm quite please with it's overall condition. It is, indeed the Tecumseh motor so I'm gong to keep my eyes open for an electric start module. Any good sources to check out?
Also, what paint is a good match for the Ariens orange from the 80's? Any suggestions?
regards
Doug
 

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congrats doug, lots of the guys use chevy orange engine paint
 

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I had one of those, and while it was a strong/heavy duty machine, my biggest gripe was the distance that it would throw snow. With mine, the impeller gap was pretty large, and I probably should have added an Impeller Kit to it, but sold it instead for a pretty good profit, and bought a much newer one at a very good price. YOu may want to give that a look/see.
 

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Congrats on the new machine!

I don't know about from the 80s specifically, but I have seen Duplicolor DE1620, Chevy orange, suggested as a close match. I haven't tried it yet myself.

For impeller kits, you can buy a Clarence kit. Or you can go to someplace like Tractor Supply Company and buy reinforced baler belt, and make your own. That's what I did. Unfortunately, they apparently stopped selling the belt by the foot, so I had to buy a small roll of it. I have enough left to replace my pieces multiple times :) If you don't want to buy a whole roll, PM me.

Go through the machine thoroughly, replace any worn stuff, get the transmission adjusted properly, change the oil, and you should be ready for next winter! Make sure the drive chain(s) don't have too much slack, and check that the differential lock mechanism operates (hasn't rusted itself stuck). Plus the usual stuff, like making sure that the augers aren't rusted to the shaft, and pumping new grease into all the fittings.
 

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Congrats on the new machine!

I don't know about from the 80s specifically, but I have seen Duplicolor DE1620, Chevy orange, suggested as a close match. I haven't tried it yet myself.

For impeller kits, you can buy a Clarence kit. Or you can go to someplace like Tractor Supply Company and buy reinforced baler belt, and make your own. That's what I did. Unfortunately, they apparently stopped selling the belt by the foot, so I had to buy a small roll of it. I have enough left to replace my pieces multiple times :) If you don't want to buy a whole roll, PM me.

Go through the machine thoroughly, replace any worn stuff, get the transmission adjusted properly, change the oil, and you should be ready for next winter! Make sure the drive chain(s) don't have too much slack, and check that the differential lock mechanism operates (hasn't rusted itself stuck). Plus the usual stuff, like making sure that the augers aren't rusted to the shaft, and pumping new grease into all the fittings.
For the belting, you could try a farm implement dealer (John Deere or any of the others) they sell the balers, so they might sell the belting by the foot.
 

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I've yet to fix the starter on mine.
To be honest, I don't see much point in it if things are working right.

Full choke and two pumps on the primer and one pull and that badboy should fire right up. Once it's running go to half choke until it's somewhat warmed up.
 

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Comes in handy if you hurt a shoulder. Nice to have as backup just in case.
IMHO, I think it's easier to pull start then to mess with an extension cord but someone else was mentioning getting hurt and being thankful for the starter.
And there is always the dreaded 18" of snow in your driveway and the starter cord breaks :eek::eek:
 

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I've yet to fix the starter on mine.
To be honest, I don't see much point in it if things are working right.
That's probably the key, if you're healthy, as K4aF said.

I've had an old 5hp machine that didn't have a primer, and the carb probably needed to be cleaned. Boy, I wished for electric start on that one :rolleyes:

On my newer 8hp & 10hp machines, with clean carbs, just give it 1-2 pulls and they're running. But my wife had to start the 10hp recently, and it was good that she merely had to plug it in and hit the button.

Electric start isn't essential. Neither is A/C in your car. But they're both nice to have.

Especially when the pull-cord breaks in a storm, like what happened to a co-worker :)
 

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That's probably the key, if you're healthy, as K4aF said.

I've had an old 5hp machine that didn't have a primer, and the carb probably needed to be cleaned. Boy, I wished for electric start on that one :rolleyes:

On my newer 8hp & 10hp machines, with clean carbs, just give it 1-2 pulls and they're running. But my wife had to start the 10hp recently, and it was good that she merely had to plug it in and hit the button.

Electric start isn't essential. Neither is A/C in your car. But they're both nice to have.

Especially when the pull-cord breaks in a storm, like what happened to a co-worker :)

OOH NO, A\C is essential in my cars. That was proven back in 2008 when I didn't have it and actually made it until June without it until I caved and rebuilt the system. :p

You're talking to a guy who's favorite outdoor temperature is 0F.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Regarding the electric start, I think of it mostly as a backup, and primarily for my wife who's not as strong in the arms as I am. Certainly, my preference is for it to start up easily, or fix whatever isn't right. So far it starts very easily, though it's not been cold here the last couple of days.

I'll have a look at the gap between the impeller and the housing. I was completely unaware of the whole issue until reading this! I'll take a look in daylight.

We live in Colorado, so we don't have too much trouble with slush, but I do generally enjoy tinkering/fixing up, and making things work as well as possible. (As an example, I've recently brought a 1969 Powermatic table saw back to life, and it's now working as well or better than new.)

Generally, though, I'm planning to open the machine up and take a look at the transmission system and deal with anything that looks like it needs attention. Then, an oil change and some fuel stabilizer for the summer.

By the way, are there any carb tuning instructions around for the HM80? Sometimes equipment is sold without being set up for altitude, and who knows what's been done to it over the years...

Best regards,
Doug
 
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