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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Belts are in good shape, drive clutch engages well, friction disk in good shape, good traction on disk. All chains and gears spinning. But no drive at all to wheels. Not clicking from diff when free wheeling around. Is my diff. blown?
 

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The Drive Plates on those Sometimes Stick. Put the Machine in the Service Position, and remove the bottom pan. Squeeze the Clutch lever, and observe if the Drive plate is making Contact with the Friction wheel. If not, Spray PB blaster or equivelent on the shaft behind the drive plate. With Prybar, pry the drive plate towards the friction wheel, and then pry it back. Rinse and Repeat Until it Moves by using the Clutch Lever.
IF everything spins, but not under a load, the belt may be slipping. Or there is a Sheared or Missing key on the gear on the friction wheel shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The Drive Plates on those Sometimes Stick. Put the Machine in the Service Position, and remove the bottom pan. Squeeze the Clutch lever, and observe if the Drive plate is making Contact with the Friction wheel. If not, Spray PB blaster or equivelent on the shaft behind the drive plate. With Prybar, pry the drive plate towards the friction wheel, and then pry it back. Rinse and Repeat Until it Moves by using the Clutch Lever.
IF everything spins, but not under a load, the belt may be slipping. Or there is a Sheared or Missing key on the gear on the friction wheel shaft.
Everything but the wheels and the axle spins under engine power.
 

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Like Jack said, the drive plate that meets the rubber drive has to move up and down....sometimes they stick, and you don't move....
 

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Everything but the wheels and the axle spins under engine power.

There is a small Key on the Hex Shaft that Locks the small sprocket in place. With the machine in service position and the Differential Locked, Spin the friction wheel. Hold the Tire from Moving, and see whats happening with the Chain Drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Everything but the wheels and the axle spins under engine power.

There is a small Key on the Hex Shaft that Locks the small sprocket in place. With the machine in service position and the Differential Locked, Spin the friction
wheel. Hold the Tire from Moving, and see whats happening with the Chain Drive.
There is no manual differential locker on this snow blower.
 

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Unless someone somehow retrofitted one or the model number sticker is wrong, that machine should not have an auto-turn differential. I have the same model and as far as I know it was made from the early to the mid-late 1990s, and auto-turn was introduced in 2013.

Anyhow here's another idea: put the machine in service position, and rotate the rubber friction wheel by hand while taking a video of the mechanism so we can see what's moving and what's not. That might help us figure out what's going on.
 

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According to My Info, it HAS a Locking Diff
 

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I have the same machine, serial numbered 100 lower than OP's machine. It Definitely has Locking Diff.

GLuck. Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
If it has a manual locking diff. It is missing all components on wheel hub to lock it? The big gear #43 in diagram is just spinning on shaft.
 

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If you mean gear 43 is spinning on the axle, you probably have one or both of two things wrong.

Although it looks like a gear, item #43 is actually a differential. And the axle is in two pieces.

Item #42 is the right (as viewed from the operator's position) axle. The right wheel attaches to the flange near the "42" in the diagram, and the axle goes from there to a little past its midpoint, where it has splines that engage the differential. Likewise, the left axle #38 has the left wheel attached to the flange, and it extends into the case where it has splines that engage the other side of the differential. But the right axle also tapers to a smaller diameter right after where it's splined, and runs inside the (hollow) left axle, and protrudes past the left wheel flange. The differential-locking hub (item 46) is held onto the end of the right axle with a bolt or pin, #40 in the diagram. The hub/pin holds the two halves of the axle together so the splines stay engaged with the differential.

So if item 46 is missing, it's possible the ends of the axles are not engaging the differential, which means the axle won't be driven. It's also possible the splines on the axles and/or differential are stripped, or you could have both problems.

A photo of the center of the left wheel, or the drive system inside the housing, might help shed some light on this.
 

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If chain #29 is indeed turning gear #35 and gear #43 is not turning ...
Either shaft #28 has elongated a slot in the chasis causing gears #35 & #43 not to mesh up / engage or gears have missing teeth.

If gear #43 is turning and axles are not turning then the differential gear #43 is broken internally. Shouldn't be too hard to determine this issue.
Like others suggested please post up a video.

One video of you turning the tires by hand showing the gears and chains that should be moving, and then squeeze drive lever to move friction plate to engage friction wheel.

P.S. Post up location as a local member can possibly help you out.

P.P.S.....
Generally when gear #43 breaks it locks up and you have positraction ALL the time.
 

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Bump....

Waiting for Shortlid to update us on the progress with this issue.
 

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Assemble the axles through the differential....
Stand assembly upright with the big axle flange on the ground and stand on it, hold the smaller axle with your
hand, with free hand try to turn differential... it should NOT turn / freewheel.
If it does turn the differential is BAD.
Like I said in earlier post... generally they break and stay locked up, thus giving you positraction regardless of locking pin engagement. Post up your findings....
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Ok took axle and diff out. Splines on axles look good. So does that mean differential is shot?
I tried the test above and the diferintial gear does spin. I can feel some notches like the gears inside the differintial are stripped out. Now what is my best source for the diff.? I am in Derry, New Hampshire if anyone is local and can help. I use the snowblower to clear the handicap ramp for my disabilied son.
 

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Videos of the issue but how do I attach? Thanks for all the help guys. It is snowing here I need to fix this ASAP! Pic is of left side hub, belive the locking pin might be missi g.
I could be wrong but that photo suggests the knob on your locking diff has snapped off and your locking pin is indeed missing or not engaging without the knob. If my theory is correct, your right side tire should be moving when the traction lever is engaged but your left tire will freewheel because of the damaged or missing lock pin.

I bought a 924 a couple of years ago where a prior owner used a hammer to pound on a seized locking diff knob and snapped it off. My quick fix was to simply install a universal clevis pin such as this. Line it up properly with the notch, insert the clevis pin with a larger washer and hair pin cotter on the inside of the rim to retain it. It's not going to be as user friendly as the factory pull-push knob to engage-disengage the differential but it will keep your diff locked until you can make a permanent repair.
 

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