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Ok guys, I’ve been wanting to add some heated grips to my HS 928 machine which has the 12V/50W coil system for the work light. I plan to switch to a PAR 36 LED which uses 9 watts and then install some heated grips, maybe the simplicity or Ariens ones as I like the look of them more than the Amazon ones. I know some folks run a rectifier and/or battery setup. I’d like to just run off the engine if it’s possible. It seems possible on paper with a 9 watt light and a 30-40 watt set of heated grips. Can anyone confirm? Does it work ok? What grips are you using?
 

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It will work fine.

Remember to incorporate a bridge rectifier and capacitors in-line with the LED bulb.
Details:
https://www.snowblowerforum.com/#/topics/6602?page=128

If you don’t get enough lumens as expected from the LED you can wire the hand warmers in series to reduce the watts(and warmth) to increase the watts of the LED bulb or upgrade to a dedicated LED light bar.

I’m using Ariens 721014 hand warmer kits on a ‘89 ST824 924050 repowered with a Tecumseh HMSK100 (10hp) and on a ‘93 ST1032 924084 repowered with a Tecumseh OHSK120 (12hp) both with 1.5A/18w AC.

If you wire the heaters in series, each will get 6V, not 12V. This will reduce their output to 1/2 of the original. So 12V, 35W heaters would put out 9W each, totaling 18w, if you wire them in series cutting their voltage in half you will stay at or below 18w.

To do this, you'd run one output from the alternator to wire A of one heater. You'd connect wire B of that heater to wire A of the second heater. Then wire B of the second heater would go to the alternator.

I have a 2A fuse wired in line before the toggle switch on the panel.


They don’t get as warm as my neighbor’s new machine but my hands don’t get cold using mine.

Make sure the outer diameter of the handle bar matches the inner diameter of the heated grips for whichever kit you purchase.

Good luck!
 

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Some of the newer Ariens heaters are wired in series from the factory. The ones on my Pro 28 are, for example. And even wired in series they're still around 40 watts and quite toasty.
 

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I installed the heater handle this way, because we rarely use the right handle!

12V ATV Bike Motorcycle Heating Grip Handlebar Hand Heater w/ Switch Accessories

I install both on the same side !


And I Installed volt meter to !
 

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If you wire the heaters in series, each will get 6V, not 12V. This will reduce their output to 1/2 of the original. So 12V, 35W heaters would put out 9W each, totaling 18w, if you wire them in series cutting their voltage in half you will stay at or below 18w.
For a simple resistive load like a heater, if you go to 1/2 the voltage, you actually get 1/4 the power, not 1/2 the power.

A 4 Ohm resistor, getting 12V, flows 3A, and puts out 36W. But change to 6V, and the current drops to 1.5A, and power output drops to 9W.

Power = Volts * Amps
or P=V*I
But when you reduce the volts, the amps are *also* reduced proportionally. So the power changes by the square of the voltage change.

So you can wire heaters in series to reduce their power draw, just be aware that it will be a BIG drop in heat output. Your 12V 35W heaters, wired in series (6V each), are putting out 9W total, not 18W total.

https://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/ohms-law-calculator.html
 

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Do you remember which exact model of Oxford grips you used? OF692Z maybe? 25mm / 1" bar size, right?
It was the cruiser grips for 1” bars. Just checked, they are EL801Z

The Adventure Heated Grips EL690Z did NOT fit.

I had to shim one of the grips (throttle side) to fit but the kit came with a plastic shim. If they make a kit for atv with 2 1” grips for a thumb throttle type setup it would be perfect. I don’t know if they make one. Hope that helps.
 

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It was the cruiser grips for 1” bars. Just checked, they are EL801Z.
Thanks very much for that info! I just purchased a set new on eBay for only $35 including shipping. He had them listed as the OF692Z sport grips, but they were in fact the EL801Z Cruiser grips 25mm / 1" bar size. Hurray - can't wait for toasty fingers in this weather we've been having!
 

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Thanks for the info!

If the hand warmers are originally designed to be wired in series (pulling 35w) and is powered by a dedicated 18w/1.5A alternator(no light), then will the handwarmers burn out the alternator prematurely?
 

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What is the resistance across 1 heater? Or across both in series? Either answer will give enough info, as long as we know what the measurement is. The resistance would allow calculating whether they're 35W wired in series, or 35W wired in parallel.

At any rate, if they're supposed to draw 35W when wired in series on a 12V source, then they're trying to draw 35W now, assuming they're still wired in series. So they'd be overloading an 18W alternator. As to whether that will burn it out, I don't know, but it probably can't be helping it.

If they're 35W in series, then they'd try to draw much more when wired in parallel.

The scenario that wouldn't overload the alternator would be if they're supposed to be 35W when wired in parallel, but they're actually wired in series.
 

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A 12 volt 35 watt heater should be about 4.5 ohms. That would be about 2.8 amps. A 19 watt heater would max out your 1.5 amp alternator.


I use heated gloves. They are great for snow blowing, shoveling, tractor plowing, and riding my motorcycle in cooler weather too.
 

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What is the resistance across 1 heater? Or across both in series? Either answer will give enough info, as long as we know what the measurement is. The resistance would allow calculating whether they're 35W wired in series, or 35W wired in parallel.

At any rate, if they're supposed to draw 35W when wired in series on a 12V source, then they're trying to draw 35W now, assuming they're still wired in series. So they'd be overloading an 18W alternator. As to whether that will burn it out, I don't know, but it probably can't be helping it.

If they're 35W in series, then they'd try to draw much more when wired in parallel.

The scenario that wouldn't overload the alternator would be if they're supposed to be 35W when wired in parallel, but they're actually wired in series.
A 12 volt 35 watt heater should be about 4.5 ohms. That would be about 2.8 amps. A 19 watt heater would max out your 1.5 amp alternator.


I use heated gloves. They are great for snow blowing, shoveling, tractor plowing, and riding my motorcycle in cooler weather too.
Did my homework.

The resistance:
one heater - 2.7 ohms @12v - 56w
In series - 5.1ohms @12v - 28w
In parallel - 1.5ohms @12v - 96w

They are wired in series from factory.

I’m thinking of using a power converter/voltage regulator to push out 9v and keep it in spec with the 18w/1.5A altinator.

In series 5.1ohms @9v is 16w

DROK 12V to 9V 2A 18W DC-DC Buck Power Converter Voltage Regulator Transformer Voltage Step Down Power Supply Module Waterproof https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C66JTPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JqIvCbQPXS3JY
 

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The 12V-9V adapter sounds perfect. Thanks for taking & sharing the measurements. That lets us avoid a lot of flawed assumptions, and can hopefully help someone else.

You can also get adjustable-output-voltage converters, if you wanted the ability to dial in the voltage. Not saying you need that (9V sounds like it should work well for yours), just mentioning it if it helped someone else, perhaps with heaters of a different resistance.

One example, which actually comes in a little enclosure, which seems somewhat uncommon:
 

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That converter sounds perfect. The switching supplies are very efficient you won't lose much wattage to heat.
 

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Completed the first steps of installing the Oxford Heated Grips EL801Z on my Honda HSS1332ATD. Got the old grips off with only minor bloodshed (and without destroying them). Installed the new grips inversely (left grip on right bar, etc.) so that the wires come down on the inside as @vmax29 did. I couldn't get the drive/auger lever interlock to work, so I made the adjustments to the grips with my die grinder to have them clear the levers, and then was able to adjust the auger lever so that the interlock worked. Now just need to swap my 18AH battery back onto the blower and hook up the electronics. Looking forward to toasty fingers!
 

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Share some pics when your all done. So far mine have been working great! I shut off the battery saver and just switch them on and off as I need them. When I park it I just hook up the Battery Tender and it’s all set for the next storm.
 

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Did my homework.

The resistance:
one heater - 2.7 ohms @12v - 56w
In series - 5.1ohms @12v - 28w
In parallel - 1.5ohms @12v - 96w

I have used a handful of the OE Cubcadet and the above shown Ariens hand warmers on the Hondas I have rebuilt, the best ones are the Ariens ones, the rubber coating is not too thick on them and they tend to warm right up.



Here is the set installed on a recent HS1332 rebuild, the OE 15W coil was replaced with a OE HS928 3A/50W coil. The coil powers the 27W LED and the hand warmers. They are very toasty if they are running alone, not unbearable though, but if the LED is on then they are nice and warm. The owner has mentioned that he doesnt even need gloves if he uses the warmers.



 

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