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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a Simplicity 1060 (model 1694440; I believe it is a 2008) this fall from a friend's Dad, and I'm having some trouble with the auger control.

The first time I used it, the upper rod that connects the auger control handle to the adjustment turnbuckle broke. I replaced the rod, and afterward noticed that it takes a lot of pressure to hold the auger control handle down. I have a pretty strong grip (been married 10 years), but this is pretty bad. Since the machine is new to me, I am not sure if it was like this before the rod broke or not (although I suspect it may be the reason...).

I also have a 1990 Simplicity 824, and even comparing the two machines, I can't figure out what is wrong. Anyone have any suggestions?
 

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it would appear to me that you over tighten some thing there. but I would help me and everybody else here if we had pics or a video of this problem that is presenting itself to you and us. ALOHA from the some what un frozen TUNDRA.:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
 

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The first time I used it, the upper rod that connects the auger control handle to the adjustment turnbuckle broke. I replaced the rod, and afterward noticed that it takes a lot of pressure to hold the auger control handle down.
You may want to remove your belt cover and see if the auger tensioner is bent or anything related to the auger belt, you have 2 belts one for auger and the other for drive. Try your auger handle with the cover off and try to see by following from your auger handle all the way to the auger pulley with the belt, Here's a link for a breakdown of your blower. Good Luck

Simplicity 1694440 Parts List and Diagram : eReplacementParts.com
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think I'm all set.

I found some time last night to work on it, and found one of the tabs on the shift control bracket (#13 on the Handles and Control Group drawing) to be bent and twisted. That caused the clutch rod (#7) that works off the pivot rod (#60) to get bent as well. I bent the parts back in shape and hope to reassemble everything tonight.

The shift control bracket is not a thin or flimsy piece of metal by any means, so I can't imagine how that got bent like it did. I had a heck of a time bending it back. Hopefully, once I have everything put back together, I don't find something else wrong...

Anyway, thanks again for the help!
 

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The shift control bracket is not a thin or flimsy piece of metal by any means, so I can't imagine how that got bent like it did. I had a heck of a time bending it back. Hopefully, once I have everything put back together, I don't find something else wrong...
QUOTE]


Maybe when one wants to have access to the bottom panel and raised the blower on its nose, may have lost grip doing so and it fell to the ground like almost upside down and the bracket got hit. Just a theory.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm posting an update on this because another member posted about a similar problem, and this may help him.

So, continuing where I left off above, after I straightened the bent parts I reassembled everything, tried to depress the auger handle, and found that the handle was still very difficult to depress. I could see that if I forced it, the same parts would bend again.

I spent an hour looking at everything and couldn't find anything wrong. The design of the linkage didn't seem right to me, however, so I modified it slightly, and now I can depress and hold the auger handle with one finger.

If you look at the Handles and Control Group drawing linked above, there is a lever, part #72, that looks like this (sorry for the crude drawing):

[Untitled]001.jpg

The lever rotates around a rod that goes through the large hole. When you depress the auger handle, the linkage connecting the auger handle to this lever causes the lever to rotate up, which pulls another linkage up and ultimately engages the auger.

The problem, I think, is that the auger handle linkage is attached to the lever too close to the pivot point. The lever wants to pull the rod up rather than pivot around it. My solution was to just drill a hole (shown in red) in the lever and attach the linkage where it can use the lever to its full advantage. I did not need to shorten or otherwise modify the linkage itself.

Honestly, I'm not sure why this lever is even there, unless it is for some option that my blower doesn't have. Anyway, I'm not sure if I'm explaining this well, but feel free to ask questions and I will try to clarify.
 

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DavidR - thanks for the update. The design of your blower is very similar to mine (my dads) 1390 (m or e, I'm not sure right now). So I am clear, you moved the linkage from the 6 oclock position in your drawing to the red spot on your drawing--correct? I am only reluctant to make such a modification because I am thinking there is a reason the friction has increased to such a degree. On the other hand, your solution seems simple and logical...I will let you know what I find.
 

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DavidR - So I am clear, you moved the linkage from the 6 oclock position in your drawing to the red spot on your drawing--correct?
Yes, that's correct.

I would definitely check everything over and make sure there isn't some other problem first. In my case, I couldn't find anything wrong (which doesn't necessarily mean there isn't something wrong), and this one modification has made all the difference.
 

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Just thinking out loud here it might have the wrong size belt on it throwing everything (adjustment -wise) off?
I didn't think of that. I've been meaning to pick up an extra drive and auger belt to have on hand, so maybe I will do that on my way home tonight and check.
 

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I have the same problem with the auger handle on my Snow King 10 HP snowblower. A question please...You said you didn't have to modify (shorten?) the linkage rod...how did you attach it to the new hole? Looks like you have to take the lever assembly apart and reassemble it? Any help would be much appreciated.
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have the same problem with the auger handle on my Snow King 10 HP snowblower. A question please...You said you didn't have to modify (shorten?) the linkage rod...how did you attach it to the new hole? Looks like you have to take the lever assembly apart and reassemble it? Any help would be much appreciated.
Thank you.
Yes, I had to take it apart to drill the hole anyway, so I reconnected the linkage when I reassembled everything.

Also, to follow up on my previous post, I did verify that the belts on my blower are correct.
 

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Handle fix

Thanks for the response.
I'm on my way to the dealer to get some other parts this AM...the plastic gears that rotate chute are worn out.
I've got my fingers crossed our solution works for me. Simplicity's design seems way to complicated (poor?) between holding down the handle and ultimately engaging the auger belt. Cams, levers, connecting rods, a turnbuckle, two very stiff springs and questionable geometry to make it work? I'll let you know how I make out.
I have a Simplicity Sno-away 7 HP from about 1970 or so that still work like a charm. Simple design and build like a rock.
Thanks again.
 

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Hi, I'm right now servicing a 970e for a customer and found the same issue with the auger control. DavidR I think you nailed it. The design seems poorly done and the connection point from the lever to the second pivot is way to close to the pivot center where there is no leverage . I actually flipped the second pivot piece over and connected the linkage in the opposite holes which greatly reduced the problem but also reduced the stroke to much. I'm going to see if that second pivot can be bypassed and connect to the top lever pivot. The only thing That might cause a problem with is the hand free feature. But drilling another hole as you did is definitely a solution, and probably the best way to go. Thanks for the info, it's nice to know I wasn't missing something.
 
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