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Discussion Starter #21
So, tonight I removed the engine from the frame so I can then take off the auger assembly, handlebars, and finally get it on the workbench.
Here it is after the removal.
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Now I can also do some fine tuning on the engine as well. Please advise that the gas line, choke, and starter switch are/were only temporary so I could make sure the engine ran nice.
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I have also included a couple pix from the Craigslist ad so you can really see where it began. Looking back I sort of wish I had taken a few more, I was thinking it was going to be a long haul with this one when I first picked it up but hadn't really convinced myself at that point. I ended up cleaning it up a lot before I started looking for problems [I was certain at that point it was an electrical issue] but by the time I was done wiping it down I knew it was going to be a long one
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Until next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Picking up where I left off. Really just messed around a bit, getting together my plan of attack.
Here's where I'm at currently with the final drive.
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to be honest it looks a lot cleaner in the pictures than it does when I'm looking right at it. But the auger is removed and I finally have it on a bench with proper lighting.
Question to anyone reading this, I need to do something about the plate behind the recoil starter, heat plate under the gas tank and the shroud that mounts on the front of the engine. They're in pretty bad shape, you can see them in the pic, I just placed the shroud for "close enough" location..
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I was thinking of running them under the brush wheel to take off the rust and then paint them black [same black as I will use on the chute guide], or maybe high heat black in the same sheen as the chute guide? [anyone have a recommendation?]. I want to keep it simple and I have had very bad luck with any sort of metallic paint in the past and do not want to replace the parts. Any tips on where to find official Honda paint at the best price would be appreciated as well.
Took a look at the auger and once the transmission and track drive are all in order it's on to that. So, going to sand that down and paint it as well. But, I was thinking of doing the Honda on the top of the auger in white letters instead of the red.

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Just so maybe it pops a little bit sort of like the Honda lettering on the side of this 928.
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We'll see how far I get next time. A lot hinges on the condition of the final drive.
 

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def weathered . like a couple things. bucket looks straight. the control panel looks good.
def high temp stove paint on engine shroud. never a problem.

engine may need to be lightly blasted ( if you wanna go all the way ) due to that corrosion/rust . I have had many parts blasted at a local powder coating shop. picture is of some work .

Honda has paint for this on their home site. I powder coat RD-01 or RD-02 . ( Cardinal Red is 02 ) Sometimes I use Rustoleum 2X apple red or cardinal red but you cant do the fuel tank because of gas spills. However , your white tank should clean up nice.

the first 2 was painted with rustoleum 2x. 2nd 2 powder coat. also have made black, yellow, silver powder coat just to do different color schemes.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks Orangputeh, exactly the info I was looking for.
You did some really nice work on those machines, are those all part of the stable or were they fix-n-go's?
I would love to get everything blasted so all I have to do is prime and paint, but keeping it in budget is always a concern. I'll probably just hit everything with what I have and then repaint, but that's always subject to change.
 

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if it drove well in all gears ( no grinding or other noises ) I would leave the final drive gearbox alone.( parts are no longer available ) you could install a grease zerk and pump in some new grease. plus there are some adjustments you could make to increase/decrease speed or adjust the gear shifter . the friction disk looks pretty good. cant see any cracks on the rubber. actually not too bad looking underneath. usually find mouse nest or stuff in here.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
When I had it all together after fixing the motor I couldn't get through all three gears [first worked fine], was unsure at that point if it was broken equipment or just dirt/grime/etc gumming up the works. I figure I'm already almost there and I would hate to complete the project only to find out the the final drive is on its way out so I'm going to disassemble the whole works.
When I removed the bottom plate after I got it the entire area was packed with a major mouse nest that pretty much filled the whole thing. In some ways I think it helped preserve some of the parts, but who knows.
 

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When I had it all together after fixing the motor I couldn't get through all three gears [first worked fine], was unsure at that point if it was broken equipment or just dirt/grime/etc gumming up the works. I figure I'm already almost there and I would hate to complete the project only to find out the the final drive is on its way out so I'm going to disassemble the whole works.
When I removed the bottom plate after I got it the entire area was packed with a major mouse nest that pretty much filled the whole thing. In some ways I think it helped preserve some of the parts, but who knows.
well , you can clean that splined whatsamacallit where the friction disk moves and grease that for starters. then you can do some adjustments. I'll post some pics from the manual on the adjustments. after that you can move the drive axle in the different gears to see if the gears in the gearbox is working. i usually do that when the machine is up on the nose before taking the tracks off.

be back in a bit with pics.
 

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hope you can read these. the first 3 are of the adjustments. second 3 are disassemble instructions.
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Discussion Starter #31
Upon further review I am going to take Orangputeh's advise and not disassemble the final drive. Using the drive axel I spun the final drive listening for any grinding and I know it sounds weird but I can hear the oil in the gears within, it operated very smoothly as well so again, I have no reason to doubt that it is in fine condition. The gasket seems sound and I think it's in good shape so I think this is one of those don't go looking for problems situations. I poked around and pulled bolts to make sure nothing was rotted or locked up, that sort of thing. So, after I finish up the cleanup on the transmission [replacement of a few of the bolts, cotter pins, sand off some of the built up mek on everything] it will be on to the auger. I'll post pix when there is something to look at.
 

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what I do is everything for the engine, chassis , bars etc and test drive it before installing the bucket and augers. just in case. I know this is down the road a ways but I learned that the hard way haha

look forward to updates. love this stuff. check out my Facebook group Honda snowblower enthusiasts. I post projects like yours all the time. Builds from start to finish to help Honda owners with their blowers. mostly articles on basic service and repairs to help people save money from the shops.

retired. this keeps me out of the bars chasing loose women and getting into trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Orangputeh, I checked out the Facebook group, but I don't have a Facebook account [I know right?] so I can't join.
I think I am going to finish cleaning it up, do the paint on the engine parts, reassemble the engine, replace a few bad bolts here and there and then put it all back together and see how it runs, probably use your suggestion and leave the auger off, but sometimes I get a little carried away once I get going...
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Dealt with this today which is pretty typical to find on this one.
Lots of gek built up on the friction disk shaft.
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sorry for the quality of the second one but it's more indicative of what I found. I think this was my issue getting into 3rd gear, and sticking getting out.
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still needs some work but certainly better. Did an initial once over on the interior, I'll post pix after I get it cleaned up a bit more
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Ugh, I wrote a whole post on my work as of late, then messed up a picture drop and lost the whole thing. So, here's the abridged version.
I am waiting on a part [reversed threaded screw that I broke] that seems to be taking forever to get [12 days and counting] so I can only go so far.
I decided not to do the paint work now and use it this winter to make sure it's sound before investing more into it.
So after going crazy cleaning up the interior I started reassembly.
First on the frame and auger.
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I found a problem [bent shaft] on the gear shift. I don't know if you can see how bent it is in the pic, but it was bad enough to mis-shift it, making the reverse gear interfere with he slide mechanism and third gear not extend far enough on to the drive disk. Very tight margin of error on this thing. In the pic you can see the bent shaft
and the black cable for the release [for lack of a better word on the right]..
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Simple fix [I bent it back by hand] and simple adjustment [lock bolt and the whole assembly turns for further adjustment], I was sort of impressed by the simplicity of it.
Then I reassembled the engine so it's ready to drop back on the chassis.
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It fits together really nice and sound. I changed the oil while I had it on the bench. I bought the paint of the plates and just didn't have it in me to strip and paint them, maybe next year. The fuel stopcock still works, the key mechanism works, and with some adjustment, the choke now works.
I had to run the motor being that I had it all back together so I bolted it to an old power washer frame that I pulled the motor off of and fired it up.
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It looks really strange on that thing. Anyway, it fired right up and I let it run for 10-15 minutes, then did it again an hour or so later [I was out doing yardwork], then did it again while I was enjoying some after work refreshment. Seems to run and idle fine, we'll see what it does under load. It was also pretty quiet, was/is that a thing with Honda motors? Does it have something to do with the coolest muffler I have ever seen on it? Seriously, I can't imagine the man hours spent on every detail of this thing, but again, is that the norm for Honda machines?
If the part comes this week I want to have it together complete so I can try out the drive next weekend. But you know what they say about the best laid plans.
Until next time.​
 

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what and where is that special bolt you are speaking of? it's heartbreaking that you can't do the work now. couldnt you get another blower to get you thru the winter so you can do this little guy right?

the 50 is usually regulated to decks and very small areas.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Orangputeh. The bolt was coming from Minneapolis, still there in fact. I ordered one from someone else last week and it should be here today.
I was on the fence with how much work I wanted to put into it. But based on the current condition I thought It be a good move to put it all back together [mostly so I don't forget how to] and run it this winter and see if I even like using it and see how it performs under load. The only open item on the to-do list will be to repaint parts of it which I can do any time if I get the inkling. I also want to see if my "better half" can operate it as it would be a good size for her to use.
I also need to clean up my work area a little bit, hopefully bringing in a motorcycle soon [Honda CB450], but we shall see.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I got the part, but I forgot to get cotter pins, so I could only prep parts for installation.
I installed the Left side track frame [sort of].
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I messed around more adjusting the gear shift bar [or whatever the technical name is], now it's straight and shifts within the correct tolerance.
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I greased up the axles as well in anticipation of re-installation but will likely grease them again [once I have cotter pins].
The adventure continues...
 

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don't need too much grease. I used to and then found out the hard way that the grease would spit onto the friction disk and drive wheel and make it slip.

just my 2 cents to stay into this game.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Orangeputeh, yep, I hear you. I only coat it [put a little on and spread it with a rag] to help me slide on the hubs easier and maybe keep the rust at bay for a year or so, not like the globs I put on the wood splitter slide.
I picked up some cotter pins at lunch so I will [hopefully] be back to re-assembly tonight.
 
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