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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Looking for a quick turnaround on this if possible - we are supposed to get 8 inches of snow on Sunday..

I have a 1994 Honda HS828K1 WA that I just bought in September for about $400. When we went to see/inspect/buy, the auger spun with no issues.

Got the snowblower all put back together (auger gearbox shaft needed to be replaced) and fired it up. Ran great and wanted to test my work. So, I depressed the auger handle and was greeted with squealing, a spark, and lots of white smoke.

I'm wondering if I put the center gear back incorrectly in the auger gearbox.. or if it's something to do with the belts now?
I'm thinking belts as the center gear teeth always oriented the same way no matter which way I put it in.

I have not snapped the impeller shear bolt yet so I'm not sure what to do. I was not able to verify if the auger actually spun or not as the smoke and squealing was immediate.

If I get the new belts before Thursday, should I be able to get in there and replace the belt only by taking off the belt cover or should I take off the entire auger housing?

Talk me through this, before I throw this snowblower up on Craigslist for $400 as is and buy a new Cub cadet.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Not sure how the Hondas work but on most there is a brake that gets applied automatically when you let go of the auger lever. This stops the rotation almost immediately so nobody gets hurt. It's possible that you mounted the belt around the outside of this brake but when you depress the auger lever to activate the augers it'll squeeze the brake even harder onto the pulley instead of it backing off. This may be the noise you describe.
 

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I'm wondering if I put the center gear back incorrectly in the auger gearbox.. or if it's something to do with the belts now?
Hi James, It's easy to get the auger brake and belt put back together incorrectly. You need to keep the auger control lever squeezed when reinstalling the auger housing. Use a zip tie or bungee or put a glove on over the depressed handle to keep it down.
If I get the new belts before Thursday, should I be able to get in there and replace the belt only by taking off the belt cover or should I take off the entire auger housing?
You need to take the auger housing back off. There are belt guides for the auger belt that you have to remove/replace to install the auger belt on the housing/lower pulley.


Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi @all3939 and @tabora (Andy),

I never took the auger housing off, just the plastic cover up top, and when I put the impeller back in, initially the rubber flaps (impeller kit) were on. Then I added the shear bolt, etc.

Tested and got the spark and smoke so I stopped and removed the impeller kit until I fix that.

Could I have tightened my auger system too much?

That's the only thing I changed. Looking to see if @ST1100A has some input here as well
 

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Hi @all3939 and @tabora (Andy),

I never took the auger housing off, just the plastic cover up top, and when I put the impeller back in, initially the rubber flaps (impeller kit) were on. Then I added the shear bolt, etc.

Tested and got the spark and smoke so I stopped and removed the impeller kit until I fix that.

Could I have tightened my auger system too much?

That's the only thing I changed. Looking to see if @ST1100A has some input here as well
it's hard to answer your question without a video. it could be the rubber paddles on your impeller fans were too tight. can you turn the impeller by hand? I always spray some dawn dish soap and water mix before breaking in new rubber inserts. once broken in they shouldn't even rub against housing but make almost a complete seal.

also look under the machine by putting the machine back on it's handlebars and make sure the auger brake is not scraping on the belt pulley wheel. I see this once in away especially if the auger housing ( i know you did not remove ) .

you don't have to remove housing just to replace a drive belt but you do for the auger belt. while you're at it replace the impeller bearing. i remove the augers and impeller before pulling and replacing housing. It's so much easier that way and takes very little extra time ( after you have done it a bunch of times )

on replacing the bucket you do have to make sure the brake is out of the way. watch you-tube video on replacing belts on a honda hs55. same thing for 828. If I were you I'd keep working on the 828. it's a good machine.

you'll get it. if you can rebuild an auger gearbox you can do just about anything on this snowblower.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
it's hard to answer your question without a video. it could be the rubber paddles on your impeller fans were too tight. can you turn the impeller by hand? I always spray some dawn dish soap and water mix before breaking in new rubber inserts. once broken in they shouldn't even rub against housing but make almost a complete seal.

also look under the machine by putting the machine back on it's handlebars and make sure the auger brake is not scraping on the belt pulley wheel. I see this once in away especially if the auger housing ( i know you did not remove ) .

you don't have to remove housing just to replace a drive belt but you do for the auger belt. while you're at it replace the impeller bearing. i remove the augers and impeller before pulling and replacing housing. It's so much easier that way and takes very little extra time ( after you have done it a bunch of times )

on replacing the bucket you do have to make sure the brake is out of the way. watch you-tube video on replacing belts on a honda hs55. same thing for 828. If I were you I'd keep working on the 828. it's a good machine.

you'll get it. if you can rebuild an auger gearbox you can do just about anything on this snowblower.

I took the impeller rubber off, but I wonder if I smoked out the bearing? I did grease all around the housing on the inside (surrounding the impeller) I'm not at home but can try to take a video later tonight.

I had it tilted back last night and silly me forgot to turn off the fuel valve so it leaked fuel everywhere.. it won't leak again if I do this (as long as the fuel is off), correct?

I know you're saying replace the impeller bearing, so I ordered the belts last night (never a bad idea to have extra belts on-hand), should I call boats.net and have them send out the bearing, too?

I had a bear of a time lining up the impeller shear pin hole with the impeller shaft; I think tonight I want to try just loosening up some of the auger system and seeing if that frees it up.. I'm thinking the screws that go into the ends of the augers (from the outside of the housing) are too tight and aren't allowing the auger to spin on those bearings?

Not opposed to taking the whole housing off, would just like to see if it's something I can fix easily.





here's a picture of the parts diagram from boats
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here's a quick video, sorry for the bad camera angle, trying to do it all at once. @orangputeh @tabora

Auger required some real force to spin, like lift up on housing and use my foot to push down to spin it.


Took the rearmost shear pin out, spins a lot easier now...

Tips?

Soccer tonight so won't be able to do anything but appreciate any feedback.


 

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Here's a quick video, sorry for the bad camera angle, trying to do it all at once. @orangputeh @tabora

Auger required some real force to spin, like lift up on housing and use my foot to push down to spin it.


Took the rearmost shear pin out, spins a lot easier now...

Tips?

Soccer tonight so won't be able to do anything but appreciate any feedback.


https://youtu.be/3-lV9ynE6lk


Here's part 2 where I have the impeller shear pin removed and it just dies as I engage.. could it be off-level?

 

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I would do the following:
Split the tractor and the bucket and isolate where your issue is. Everything else is all guess and hearsay. When apart spin the impeller pulley by hand to see what it feels like.

A) It should be pretty smooth turning. If it looks right then the issue is/was belt related rubbing on something.

B) If it isn't and you feel resistance you'll need to dig further into the bucket to see if it is the gearbox or something else.
 

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Here's part 2 where I have the impeller shear pin removed and it just dies as I engage.. could it be off-level?
James, you had the entire auger/impeller assembly out, and it's virtually impossible (or at least very, very difficult) to reassemble correctly without having the auger housing off the blower frame. There are 2 belt guides on the bottom of the auger housing that retain the belt on the lower pulley and you may have the belt on the wrong side of them, or not interacting properly with the brake/tensioner as previously discussed. It only takes 10 bolts (3 on each side and 2 top and bottom) to remove the housing, and all will become obvious. Watch this video to see what to expect in there:
 

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i would take belt cover off and inspect with engine off. check idler wheels and belts also you could put machine in service position ( on bucket ) and check auger pulley wheel belts and auger brake. clamp down the handles and check belts being pushed in by idlers also. ( with engine off ). check to make sure belts are lined up right. straight.

it is strange that this happens when you did not split the machine. since you removed the augers and impeller and reinstalled them .....that's the clue. something is not lined up right

i would NOT run engine and engage auger handle until you find problem, you may cause additional damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you Andy, I'll take a look at that if there is any down time at work tomorrow.

OP, I wonder if it's (auger & impeller) too heavy? I am not opposed to taking it out again now that the rubber is off the impeller kit.

My first thought is that the auger is at a downward angle and causing a lot of resistance. My second thought is that @tabora may be onto something about the way I reinstalled it.

I'll try to post another video of the top plastic piece off, do I need to take the chute off to remove the housing? I suppose that question will answer itself when I watch the video.

The help is appreciated, even if I have to shovel the first storm of the year.
 

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Thank you Andy, I'll take a look at that if there is any down time at work tomorrow.

OP, I wonder if it's (auger & impeller) too heavy? I am not opposed to taking it out again now that the rubber is off the impeller kit.

My first thought is that the auger is at a downward angle and causing a lot of resistance. My second thought is that @tabora may be onto something about the way I reinstalled it.

I'll try to post another video of the top plastic piece off, do I need to take the chute off to remove the housing? I suppose that question will answer itself when I watch the video.

The help is appreciated, even if I have to shovel the first storm of the year.
I'm tempted to fly out to have a look.

i really don't see how you may have reinstalled the augers and impeller wrong. it probably has something the do with the auger pulley wheel/belt/auger brake

have grandchildren in Presque Isle that i have never met.
 

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Thank you Andy, I'll take a look at that if there is any down time at work tomorrow.
James, if splitting the auger housing doesn't resolve it, give me a call and I can come down there to help sort it out. The first time I did my HS80 belt, it took me 3 tries to get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm tempted to fly out to have a look.

i really don't see how you may have reinstalled the augers and impeller wrong. it probably has something the do with the auger pulley wheel/belt/auger brake

have grandchildren in Presque Isle that i have never met.
Presque Isle is only about a 5.5 hour drive from here!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
James, if splitting the auger housing doesn't resolve it, give me a call and I can come down there to help sort it out. The first time I did my HS80 belt, it took me 3 tries to get it right.
Sounds like a plan, though it's either Friday during the day or potentially quite early on Saturday is the only time I may be able to work on it through the weekend.
 

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Sounds like a plan, though it's either Friday during the day or potentially quite early on Saturday is the only time I may be able to work on it through the weekend.
I am working all day Friday and until 2 on Saturday, so I'm only available late Saturday or Sunday. Let me know if your schedule changes...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am working all day Friday and until 2 on Saturday, so I'm only available late Saturday or Sunday. Let me know if your schedule changes...
Got someone that's gonna help me early Saturday to look it over, new belts originally said delivered tomorrow, now it says Monday.. not too happy since I paid for the faster shipping.

Don't think my schedule will change, but will keep you posted.
Going to watch that video in the morning so I know what's coming at me. Thank you again for the tips
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
@tabora
@orangputeh
@ST1100A

So.. Occam's razor came into effect this morning. Got the blower over to my buddy's shop, he suggested we take the top plastic cover off and try it that way. Couldn't get it completely out of the way, so we took the chute off also.

Started the blower, ran fine. Engaged the auger, no smoke, and engaged. Remember I had the impeller shear bolt out at this point. Tried to force the auger/impeller assembly to stop with very light resistance, just chugged right through with no issues.

So, standing there and scratching our heads...
Said, what if it's just the plastic cover?

I said, I hadn't tried running it with the plastic cover off, I just know it was white smoke with the cover on. So, thanks to Occam's razor, the simplest fix was made and we ground out where the rubber had interference. I've now got a small hole in the plastic cover, but the auger runs with no issues at all, and transmission locks it in place when engaged. Yes, it works with the impeller shear pin back in as well.

I'm a happy snowblower owner now, with a working HS828, and it's all thanks to the wonderful help provided by this forum. Good thing it's fixed today, as we're expecting 5-10 inches tomorrow. I like a good test!

Now I will go put the impeller kit back on, slap a bit of fluid film (lanolin oil based) in there for lubrication, and let those wear in for a bit.

I will also be trying to up my RPMs, that may need to wait until after the storm, depending on performance under a load. (New jet is here for replacement in the spring time)


Here's a couple pictures of the outside of the plastic piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Adding that this topic is solved, we took off the plastic cover and ground it down to remove the interference. No more rubbing, just parts working.

New belts will be here today, so I will have those as backup.
 
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