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OMG, we don't have oil threads here like on the motorcycle forums? Honestly now, we cannot do better than what the owner's manual (the manufacturer) recommends? What ever happened to, 'if it ain't broke, fix it'?:ROFLMAO:
 

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I'd go with any 5w-30 power equipment specific oil. One with an additive package best suited for splash lubricated air cooled engines. Yamalube, Honda PE, or Amsoil to name a few.

But frankly any 5w-30 is sufficient. As long as sufficient is good enough for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd go with any 5w-30 power equipment specific oil. One with an additive package best suited for splash lubricated air cooled engines. Yamalube, Honda PE, or Amsoil to name a few.

But frankly any 5w-30 is sufficient. As long as sufficient is good enough for you.
I’m thinking about going with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5W-30
 

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OMG, we don't have oil threads here like on the motorcycle forums? Honestly now, we cannot do better than what the owner's manual (the manufacturer) recommends? What ever happened to, 'if it ain't broke, fix it'?:ROFLMAO:
oil opinions are like you know what......everyone has one.

that is why I always say read your owners manual. those engineers who designed these engines aint no dummies.

JMFO :cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
 

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You can break it in with expensive synthetic oil, it wont hurt a thing except your wallet when you change it after only 5 or 20 hours for the first break in change, so why waste the extra money on the good stuff when you will get a short life out of it before it is changed the first time.
Then afterwards run the expensive stuff and save your money on the first break in oil with it's short life.
You want to make sure you use a good quality 'Small Engine Oil' - 'Air Cooled Engine' not Automotive oil designed for car engines, there is a difference. Car oils are not designed for the abuse a small engine will put it through.
 

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Certainly full synthetic oils have better flow properties than conventional oils due to having no wax in their makeup, so will get to the parts more quickly than a conventional oil that may start to gel closer to 0F. Synthetics tend to flow well closer to -40F. Over time (decades?) very cold starts with conventional oils will take their toll on an engine more than synthetics due to initial wear of the engine as a gelled (conventional) oil takes time to become fluid. Likewise, synthetics may enable a quicker start in very cold temperatures for a similar reason.
 

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You can break it in with expensive synthetic oil, it wont hurt a thing except your wallet when you change it after only 5 or 20 hours for the first break in change, so why waste the extra money on the good stuff when you will get a short life out of it before it is changed the first time.
I have heard that some of the 'energy saving oils' with additives might not allow the rings to seat. Best to follow the mfr's instructions in the Owners Manual.
 

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For break in, better safe then sorry. Conventional is ideal or blend at most. The concern is overly slick oil will cause the cylinders cross hatching to wear before the rings can adequately file themselves true to the bore of the cylinder. No babying these things, During break in work the machine hard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
For break in, better safe then sorry. Conventional is ideal or blend at most. The concern is overly slick oil will cause the cylinders cross hatching to wear before the rings can adequately file themselves true to the bore of the cylinder. No babying these things, During break in work the machine hard.
So after break end I’m good to change oil to pennzoil ultra platinum
 

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So after break end I’m good to change oil to pennzoil ultra platinum
Yes, if that particular Pennzoil meets Honda's requirements (I've not checked, but checking for the appropriate approvals is your responsibility anyway). In recent years the need for breaking in a new engine has changed (compared to say, 40 yrs ago) due to better manufacturing practices and closer machining tolerances. Again, read the manual.
 

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Refer to your owners manual. Either 5W-30 or 10W-30 depending on average outside temps in your area.
My new 1332 manual says strictly 5W-30 Across any temp range......btw orangputeh, you seem knowledgeable so a question: I want to fit a better oil change drain to avoid a mess. I think the 1332 has a 10mm thread but can you recommend something to fit after my first change? Drainzit or other?
 

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My new 1332 manual says strictly 5W-30 Across any temp range......btw orangputeh, you seem knowledgeable so a question: I want to fit a better oil change drain to avoid a mess. I think the 1332 has a 10mm thread but can you recommend something to fit after my first change? Drainzit or other?
i use the drainzit. no complaints. the oil question is a no win question. everyone has an opinion. my Honda owners manual has a chart for oil weights . according to chart I should use 10w-30 in the Sierra Nevada . I use Costco Synthetic 5w-30. Ask 100 people about what brand oil and what weight and you will get 100 answers.

wanna have some real fun about oil questions? join the bobtheoilguy website. people argue all day long there.

That is why I said refer to your owners manual. Honda engineers aint no dummies.
 

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I think the 1332 has a 10mm thread but can you recommend something to fit after my first change? Drainzit or other?
You remove the extension when you install the Drainzit, so it's an M12. The correct Drainzit is the HON1012.
176096
 
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