This LCT AX engine would not start. The seller claimed the blower was used the last season but was difficult to start. I did get it to fire with a spoon of gas into the spark plug.
I don't waste time on changing the fuel or replacing the plug or disturb the throttle/governor or futile attempts to "tune" an otherwise non-adjustable carb. So many folks try all that first, yet still end up pulling the carb. All roads lead to Rome.
Time is money. I get right on it.
Blowers with LCT engines are by far the easiest of OHV's to get access to the carb: 4 bolts off the heat shield, 4 bolts off the heater box, one choke dial pulled up. No wires to remove. Powermore's require more stuff off. Briggs' plastic shrouds are just a PITA.
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Tip: A personal hairdryer can warm up lines so they wiggle off by band, no tools.
I don't use a Vise-Grip which eats up the fuel line or a screwdriver to score up the barb in prying the line off. Otherwise the fuel line will drool around a damaged barb, needing gasket sealer and a tighter hose clamp.
The primer hose plastic barb is even more delicate. Detach it carefully, leaving it attached to the primer bulb.
The heater box can rest down with all its wires still attached.
Tip: Remove the fuel drain bolt and un-seize the bowl bolt while the carb is still fastened to the intake.
With the fuel line out, inspect the fuel being drained into a glass jar.
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Unlike older carbs with hooks and Z-bends in linkage, LCT linkage are removed while the carb is still in place. Close the throttle to lift up the link first, then carefully unhook the spring.
Now I can work indoors.
TIME PASSED: 15 MINUTES.
Before removing the pilot jet that is wedged under the idle screw, note how much it pokes out to push the throttle. I don't figure out how many turns-out it is in fear of stripping out a screw made of plastic. I measured 1.75mm.
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Ultrasonic cleaning only needs hot tap water with a shot of ultrasonic degreaser.
TIME PASSED: 45 MINUTES.
The ultrasonic does a fantastic job. No solvents. No cleanout wires to poke passageways.
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Parts are dried in a minute with blasts of compressed air from a shop air compressor. Work those holes.
I found #85 stamped into the main jet, and #45 on the pilot jet.
The clean o-rings on the pilot jet will be grippy and may not allow it from properly seating. Use a bit of dish soap on the o-rings to seat the pilot jet back into the carb.
This carb bowl had a significant notch in it to orient its rotation. Otherwise, the bowl is oriented perpendicular to the choke-throttle flow, the drain bolt faces outward.
The carb to intake gasket looked good, I didn't change it.
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Slowly place the black carburetor cover back over the choke lever and the silver visor before you fasten the coupling nuts in front of the carb.
TIME PASSED: ONE HOUR.
With fresh fuel treated with Sta-Bil and Seafoam, it fired up on the first pull.
A Treysit sirometer (Briggs & Stratton 19200 Tachometer) tells me it always had a correct throttle that I never had to mess with.
![Image]()
With the fuel delivery restored, change the oil while it's still hot and runny.
![Image]()
I don't waste time on changing the fuel or replacing the plug or disturb the throttle/governor or futile attempts to "tune" an otherwise non-adjustable carb. So many folks try all that first, yet still end up pulling the carb. All roads lead to Rome.
Time is money. I get right on it.
Blowers with LCT engines are by far the easiest of OHV's to get access to the carb: 4 bolts off the heat shield, 4 bolts off the heater box, one choke dial pulled up. No wires to remove. Powermore's require more stuff off. Briggs' plastic shrouds are just a PITA.
Tip: A personal hairdryer can warm up lines so they wiggle off by band, no tools.
I don't use a Vise-Grip which eats up the fuel line or a screwdriver to score up the barb in prying the line off. Otherwise the fuel line will drool around a damaged barb, needing gasket sealer and a tighter hose clamp.
The primer hose plastic barb is even more delicate. Detach it carefully, leaving it attached to the primer bulb.
The heater box can rest down with all its wires still attached.
Tip: Remove the fuel drain bolt and un-seize the bowl bolt while the carb is still fastened to the intake.
With the fuel line out, inspect the fuel being drained into a glass jar.
Unlike older carbs with hooks and Z-bends in linkage, LCT linkage are removed while the carb is still in place. Close the throttle to lift up the link first, then carefully unhook the spring.
Now I can work indoors.
TIME PASSED: 15 MINUTES.
Before removing the pilot jet that is wedged under the idle screw, note how much it pokes out to push the throttle. I don't figure out how many turns-out it is in fear of stripping out a screw made of plastic. I measured 1.75mm.
Ultrasonic cleaning only needs hot tap water with a shot of ultrasonic degreaser.
TIME PASSED: 45 MINUTES.
The ultrasonic does a fantastic job. No solvents. No cleanout wires to poke passageways.
Parts are dried in a minute with blasts of compressed air from a shop air compressor. Work those holes.
I found #85 stamped into the main jet, and #45 on the pilot jet.
The clean o-rings on the pilot jet will be grippy and may not allow it from properly seating. Use a bit of dish soap on the o-rings to seat the pilot jet back into the carb.
This carb bowl had a significant notch in it to orient its rotation. Otherwise, the bowl is oriented perpendicular to the choke-throttle flow, the drain bolt faces outward.
The carb to intake gasket looked good, I didn't change it.
Slowly place the black carburetor cover back over the choke lever and the silver visor before you fasten the coupling nuts in front of the carb.
TIME PASSED: ONE HOUR.
With fresh fuel treated with Sta-Bil and Seafoam, it fired up on the first pull.
A Treysit sirometer (Briggs & Stratton 19200 Tachometer) tells me it always had a correct throttle that I never had to mess with.
With the fuel delivery restored, change the oil while it's still hot and runny.
