Snowblower Forum banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
434 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a Craftsman 9/28 model 247.888530 with a Tecumseh engine. It has a factory-equipped headlamp. The headlamp has worked fine in the past so recently when it stopped working, I assumed the sealed beam had blown. I replaced it and it still didn't work. I put a meter on the the supply wires and no power. The wire coming out of the engine is missing insulation with bare wire exposed either due to heat or simply old age. Can I replace this wire coming from the stator? If so, how do I get access to the stator? I can't tell from the parts diagram.

Do I just remove the cover for the manual recoil starter with 4 gold-colored nuts? Or do I have to remove the black engine housing?

Take a look at the photos. Photo #1 shows what looks like a white wire (it's actually yellow as seen in photo #2) exiting the black engine housing. The system is only posting 1 photo at a time so my other 2 photos will be in separate posts.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
434 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Here is photo#2 which shows the same wire (now you can see it's yellow) with the exposed strands of copper wire.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
434 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Here is photo #3 which shows the black housing. You can see 2 of the 4 gold nuts/bolts by the recoil starter handle. There are a couple of bolts on top of the housing, there's one on each side of the spark plug.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,371 Posts
I have a Craftsman 9/28 model 247.888530 with a Tecumseh engine. It has a factory-equipped headlamp. The headlamp has worked fine in the past so recently when it stopped working, I assumed the sealed beam had blown. I replaced it and it still didn't work. I put a meter on the the supply wires and no power. The wire coming out of the engine is missing insulation with bare wire exposed either due to heat or simply old age. Can I replace this wire coming from the stator? If so, how do I get access to the stator? I can't tell from the parts diagram.
.
You will have to replace the wire all the way to the stator or until you find good wire and yes you should remove the recoil case and see if you have access to the wire being in good shape. Try this for start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Hello CO Snow. Here is a video showing the location of the lighting coil which is underneath the flywheel. You will have to remove the recoil shroud (the black housing) to access the flywheel and coil. No need to remove the four nuts holding the rope assembly to it. As Normex stated, if your lucky, after removing the shroud you will be able to splice into a good part of the damaged wire. There is a good possibility that the coil is damaged from the wire shorting and will need to be replaced. If you do have to remove the flywheel, it is critical to torque the flywheel nut to 58 ft\lbs.


Link to engine service manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf
 

·
Retired Moderator
Joined
·
4,160 Posts
I am not positive, but if that shorts out I think it could have ruined your lightning coil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
434 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the advise. WOW seems like a lot of work. He had the engine off and on a workbench. I'm sure it would be a lot tougher with the engine on the blower. I'm wondering if it's worth messing with?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,371 Posts
Thanks for the advise. WOW seems like a lot of work. He had the engine off and on a workbench. I'm sure it would be a lot tougher with the engine on the blower. I'm wondering if it's worth messing with?
You could just go to the next step by removing the recoil shroud and see if the wire is not damaged as you can splice from there but there is no guaranty as Shryp pointed out the lightning coil could be kaput but its worth a try. Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
434 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Hello CO Snow. Here is a video showing the location of the lighting coil which is underneath the flywheel. You will have to remove the recoil shroud (the black housing) to access the flywheel and coil. No need to remove the four nuts holding the rope assembly to it. As Normex stated, if your lucky, after removing the shroud you will be able to splice into a good part of the damaged wire. There is a good possibility that the coil is damaged from the wire shorting and will need to be replaced. If you do have to remove the flywheel, it is critical to torque the flywheel nut to 58 ft\lbs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPyyTWNH7Ow

Link to engine service manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf
Just curious, Grunt, you said 58 ft\lbs and the video says 52 ft\lbs?

I'm going to try this repair project. I've taken off the engine shroud along with the cup, nut and washer on the shaft. I'm ready to remove the flywheel. Easier said than done. Here's a photo of what it looks like. I assume I need to use a gear puller and put the hooks behind the teeth around the outside edge of the flywheel. Bear with me because I haven't used one of these before. Then use a socket and ratchet to turn the shaft of the gear puller? Is it likely to be tough to get off? Any lubricant or hammer needed?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
434 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Here's a photo of the flywheel looking from above.

Why can't I upload more than 1 photo at a time? I select the photos and click on UPLOAD but only the last selected file uploads. The file size is small so that's not the problem.
 

Attachments

·
Retired Moderator
Joined
·
4,160 Posts
The force of a gear puller on the outer edges of the flywheel can crack it in half. Even if all looks well and it pops off you might put a hairline crack in it and it can break apart while running. Easiest way to remove it is to loosen the nut until it is even with the threads and then tap it with a hammer and maybe a block of wood. Air hammer/chisel with a blunt tip is suppose to work well too.

If you have an impact that works well for removing the nut.

Make sure you get that nut tight enough when putting it back together or else your flywheel will spin and shear the key and mess up the timing.

Jump to about 4:10 here:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,371 Posts
To post more than one pic in one setting you have to upload two different pics at the same time meaning you chose pic#1 and upload then choose pic #2 using browse again and upload then you see you have two files in one session Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
434 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks, Shryp. I saw Donyboy's video after I posted the question. I'll try that tomorrow.

The wire from stator is bare as far as I can see to the edge of the flywheel. Need to get that flywheel off to see the stator and see if the wire can be spliced. Is there a way to know if the stator is generating power without putting everything back together again?Because if it's not working then I have to take it apart a 2nd time to replace it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
Just curious, Grunt, you said 58 ft\lbs and the video says 52 ft\lbs?
I got the 58 ft\lbs setting from the torque specs in the back of the service manual. 52 ft\lbs seems to be for an HH engine, not an HMSK? Shryp already recommended how to remove the flywheel. AFTER reinstalling the flywheel and torqueing to spec, use a new business card as a feeler gage between the ignition coil and the flywheel magnets to set the correct air gap of .012-.015.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
434 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, Grunt. Yep, I saw the gapping with the index card in the video so I am ready for that. I wasn't sure I'd be able to tackle this project but my neighbor is good about letting me borrow tools (torque wrench).

I'll report my results tomorrow.
 

·
Retired Moderator
Joined
·
4,160 Posts
I know when checking for spark you can just set the flywheel on the shaft and turn it by hand and you will get spark when the magnets cross the coil. You can just turn it 5 degrees or so back and forth and don't need a full revolution. I am not sure if the stator will work the same way or not.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,224 Posts
I couldn't find any resistance readings for the stator anywhere. Maybe you could leave the plug out and use a drill to spin the engine over while watching a volt meter attached to the stator wire? The voltage will be low since the motor rpm's determine how much voltage is put out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
434 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Can't get flywheel off. Tried tapping end of crankshaft with the nut to protect threads. I was using a pry bar at the same time and moving around the flywheel with the pry bar.

What's next step? Use a propane torch and heating flywheel around the crankshaft? Can I cause any damage such as ignition components?
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top