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I have a 17 year old Craftsman 9HP 29" with a Tecumseh engine, model: 536.887990. I have read the manual and searched online and read a few hints and watched many videos. I don't see a specific answer to proper setting of scraper bar. I have one with oval holes for adjusting the bar up and down. Should I push it all the way down or back it up off the bottom of the housing(obviously not allowing the housing to scrape the ground). In either case I will adjust the skid shoes 1/8" lower than the scraper bar for a paved driveway I clear. I have set it all the way down which lifts the auger higher up off the ground, and set the shoes for the 1/8" clearance, but I don't know if this is the proper way to set it. The manual just states to set the scraper bar to the proper position, but does not indicate what is the proper position. Any opinions on this?

Thanks for reading.
 

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Most I have seen are not adjustable, just holes for the carriage bolt, and some are reversible.

If you have a scraper bar that you can adjust, priority is to keep the augers off the ground where they have no chance of banging the ground. That may require say putting a yardstick or similar under the side of the bucket, or just resting the bucket on the ground without skids may achieve this. Then tighten your cutting/scrapper edge. Now put a yardstick under your cutting edge, install your skids so they touch the ground and tighten. All this is while on a level surface.


JMHO
 

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Perhaps an obvious point but make sure the air pressure in your tires is correct on both sides before making any adjustments to the scraper bar and skid shoes. I've purchased more than one used snowblower that has uneven wear to the bar and skid shoes because the owner never adjusted the tire air pressure.
 

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@micah68kj

So this would suggest the auger lower to the ground is the way to go.



I gave you the book version. Now I'll tell you how I do it. As Rod330 mentioned, make sure your tire pressures are equalized and have the machine on a very level surface.This step is very important. Next, after removing the old scraper bar loosely install the scraper bar. Loosen the skids so they move freely. Set your machine on a very level surface. Now, here I got a magic marker sharpie and I made a mark on the bucket just at the point where the scraper bar moved to. Now I raised the bucket up to where I could tighten the scraper bar retaining nuts using the Sharpie marks as a guide just in case the scraper bar may have moved. After tightening I put a paint stir stick on the ground and set the scraper bar down on it. Next I hold the skids down while tightening them into their respective positions. You're done. There are probably other and better ways but this is how I do it. If using blower on a gravel driveway I'd probably use a short section of 1"x 3" piece of wood.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
@micah68kj
@rod330

Thanks guys. I had checked tire pressure days ago when beginning servicing on the thrower. I had 17 lbs on the right and 0 lbs on the left. It seemed to fill fine and maintain at that time, but I will check again as I set the bar and shoes.
 

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@Sgt,

At the end of the adjustment, you want the proper tire inflation , standing on level ground, and having a gap of 1/8" to 1/4" between the cutting/scrapper bar and the ground. If you are running over a gravel driveway, you probably want to increase that, depending on the condition of the surface, so that your not shooting out rock projectiles. I notice your scraper bar is also reversible, which extends the life of the bar.

If you are loosing air from a tire, I would find out where it is coming from and fix it properly, or just replace it if it is worn or a lawn tire with chains, ( which bounces your machine to death. ) If it is the stem, pull it out and replace it … many older ones due to age leak right through the side walls, which a tube will correct, just make sure you use the 90 degree stem tube.

I currently am trying out the XTrac on my machines, put them on 4 this past summer, which I expect to perform flawlessly, but still have the SnowHogs on three which work great. I have attached some photos, … the small tire is a SnowHog, and the larger one is the XTrac one.
 

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Best to set the height on concrete rather than asphalt, garage floor, patio, sidewalk.

Put 3 paint stick stirrers spread equidistant under the scraper bar then adjust the skid shoes until they touch the concrete.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
@oneacer
@JLawrence08648

Thanks guys. Yes, I had it on a cement floor in my garage for adjusting the bar & skids and use a 1/8" thick rafter square to lay the scraper bar on. In fact, I got my order for ARMORskids in yesterday and installed them:



And thanks for the tire tip, I hadn't considered it might loose the air so I will check again and see where they are at. I have a long deep bucket I think the wheel will fit in for testing if need be. I appreciate the 90º valve suggestion if needed on a tube.

Bummer is that here in Central New Jersey we had a storm yesterday into this morning and all we got is an inch or so on the grass and none on the drive or sidewalks. No trying out my snow thrower this time. :sad2:
 

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I use a paint stir stick or two as a reference on my machine. Seeing i also make a run with my machine on the grass boulevard adjacent to my driveway i have the bar and bottom of the shoes adjusted to two paint stir sticks laid flat upon each other, gives the perfect height and eliminated measuring with a tape measure. If i was doing a flat driveway i would go 1 paint stir stick to get even closer for a finished look. My driveway is also a bit uneven so the two paint stick height works out well for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@oneacer

If you are loosing air from a tire, I would find out where it is coming from and fix it properly, or just replace it if it is worn or a lawn tire with chains, ( which bounces your machine to death. ) If it is the stem, pull it out and replace it … many older ones due to age leak right through the side walls, which a tube will correct, just make sure you use the 90 degree stem tube.

I currently am trying out the XTrac on my machines, put them on 4 this past summer, which I expect to perform flawlessly, but still have the SnowHogs on three which work great. I have attached some photos, … the small tire is a SnowHog, and the larger one is the XTrac one.
Hey oneacer, if I do need a tube, how hard is it to install? I have the original which looks like your XTrac tire:



I see tubes for $2.99 and up to fit my 4.80 - 8 tire. Any recommendations?
 

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@oneacer



Hey oneacer, if I do need a tube, how hard is it to install? I have the original which looks like your XTrac tire:



I see tubes for $2.99 and up to fit my 4.80 - 8 tire. Any recommendations?

Whatever tube you buy, get a 90 degree valve on it. Break down one side, slip the tube in and air it up.
 

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That looks like a newer tire, appearing to be in great shape. If that is leaking through the valve, I would let the air out, break the bead on the stem side, pull the old stem out and install the new stem, applying bead sealer around the stem prior to pulling it through the rim. Apply bead sealer to the bead and re-inflate.

If it is leaking at one of the beads, I would break the bead it is leaking at and apply bead sealer and re-inflate tire.

If by chance it has a hole in it, I would plug it with a rope sticky plug.

The only way I would use a tube in that tire is if it is checking, and leaking everywhere through the side wall, which does not appear to be happening looking at the photo.

And if you need a tube, because of that type rim, a straight valve tube would also work.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
@oneacer
@micah68kj

oneacer/1692745 said:
just make sure you use the 90 degree stem tube.
Whatever tube you buy, get a 90 degree valve on it.
I see by looking closely at my wheel picture what you mean about the 90º valve stem.

Sorry about stealing my own thread about scrapers/skids and turning it into a tire/tube issue, but I see by several comments it does rather relate.

Thanks again guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
@oneacer

That looks like a newer tire, appearing to be in great shape. If that is leaking through the valve, I would let the air out, break the bead on the stem side, pull the old stem out and install the new stem, applying bead sealer around the stem prior to pulling it through the rim. Apply bead sealer to the bead and re-inflate.

If it is leaking at one of the beads, I would break the bead it is leaking at and apply bead sealer and re-inflate tire.

If by chance it has a hole in it, I would plug it with a rope sticky plug.

The only way I would use a tube in that tire is if it is checking, and leaking everywhere through the side wall, which does not appear to be happening looking at the photo.

And if you need a tube, because of that type rim, a straight valve tube would also work.
Surprising you say it looks like a newer tire, it is 17 years old, but it has been in a garage through snow season and a shed otherwise.

Thanks for the bead seal tips.
 

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@Sgt,

Wow, I must be getting old … lol …. I did not think the XTrac tread was out all that long ago … goes to show how time flies … :)

Big difference when a machine is stored inside … to many times I see a machine rusted away from being left outside in the elements.

Yeah, actually your tires are a very important factor when setting scrapper and skid heights.
 
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