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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy. Recently picked up an hs624 tracked model with serial # SZAJ 2009337. I think it's from the nineties. I believe that it has been somewhat abused, as the auger rakes are very worn down, the shaft was seized to the auger, and the sides/rear of the bucket were rusted and a little beat up, seemingly due to incorrect skid shoe height/neglect.

I've addressed the bucked wear with sanding and paint, adjusted the shoes, and just freed up the auger rakes. I currently have the auger detached from the auger bucket, but I can't seem to slide if away from the impeller.

I'm hoping someone can help me out.

My question:
How do I remove the auger assembly from the impeller? I see two bolts on the impeller shaft. I believe the one closest to the impeller to be a lock bolt and the one closest to the auger gear case to be a shear bolt. Do they both come out? Neither? I sprayed some penetrating oil where it seems likely to help and plan on leaving it for a bit, but it would help to know where I'm headed.

I want to apply anti-seize to the auger shaft and replace the auger bearings, and I'm not quite sure how to detach what needs to be detached.

An image of the impeller assembly with bolts in question are attached. Looking forward to learning something new!
 

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#5 is the shear bolt and needs to be removed to remove the augers and impeller in one piece. The other bolt is a hardware bolt that can be removed after you have removed the auger/impeller assembly.

to remove a difficult #5 . remove the nut first , then spray some penetrating oil down the shaft and let sit awhile. Then I use a brass hammer to tap the end of bolt. If you use metal or a regular hammer then you can mushroom end of bolt and then "good luck" on getting that bolt out.

You can also use a punch to punch out bolt.

Most come out easily after soaking with penetrating oil but some can be a headache.

when i service the augers I do the same thing you are preparing to do. I also weld up the holes where the small shear pins go thru because they are usually elongated or egg shaped from having loose shears and them banging around a lot.

such as this.

btw welcome to the snowblower nuthouse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info! Do I need to take the auger and impeller out in one piece, or can I just remove the augers by removing bolt #15?

My thought was that bolt #15 attaches to the auger gearcase shaft, while bolt #5 attaches to a pulley shaft. Is this correct?

I don't want to take apart more than is necessary, if that makes sense. If I remove the auger and impeller as one piece, will that cause any issue with the pulley inside the blower?

I appreciate the feedback. Nuthouse! Ha. Was a member on a coal stove forum when I had a Keystoker. Very much appreciated the resources, and I'm sure this forum will be as informative.
 

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an answer always begets more questions.

no
yes
yes
no
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds good. Gonna let it soak for another day or two and see how removal goes. Thanks for the input!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info, orangputeh. All went smoothly with some wood block and persuasion. Auger rakes off, shafts cleaned and anti seize applied, checked auger gear fluid, checked engine oil, dry lube on the chute adjustment joint and cog, topped off hydraulic fluid and added some shoes on the blower housing sides. Currently waiting for auger bearings in the mail, then it all goes back together. I'll check out the belts next, but they seem to be in working order. Sound like I'm missing anything on a newly acquired machine before use (in months)?
179763
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes indeed, Oneacer. 1998 Club Car DS. Bought my house in October and the golf cart came with it, didn’t run. I spent my winter rehabbing the golf cart, so my time now is tinkering with the snowblower. Seems like it’ll be serviceable for my slightly inclined driveway. I also have a wheeled 1980’s Snapper i522, but that’s an it underpowered and the tracks on the Honda should help.
Diagnosed with carpal tunnel, so every little bit helps when it comes to moving snow. The pontoon doesn’t fit in the garage. Always something to do.
179764

179765
 

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Thanks for the info, orangputeh. All went smoothly with some wood block and persuasion. Auger rakes off, shafts cleaned and anti seize applied, checked auger gear fluid, checked engine oil, dry lube on the chute adjustment joint and cog, topped off hydraulic fluid and added some shoes on the blower housing sides. Currently waiting for auger bearings in the mail, then it all goes back together. I'll check out the belts next, but they seem to be in working order. Sound like I'm missing anything on a newly acquired machine before use (in months)?
View attachment 179763
Thanks for the update. Appreciate that as most newcomers ask questions and then never come back.

Ya, check belts . if you have to change the fat auger belt, the bucket has to be removed so change that impeller bearing as well.

Check cables for frays at the ends.
Not sure if you mentioned draining old gas. If you can find ethanol free gas that would be great. Otherwise fresh gas treated with a gas stabilizer.
I turn off gas and run it until it stalls for off season storage. You dont have to do this during winter.

I also weld up elongated holes where the shear pins go in the augers and drill new holes. This is why people are always breaking shear pins. Keep them tight also. here is a pic .

Read your owners manual. That is the bible. you can download a free pdf file if you dont have a physical copy.

BTW , good job on getting those augers apart.

oh, you could also install an impeller kit since you have the impeller out. I just use belting from Tractor supply with some #10 self tapping screws. it will cut down on clogging and improve throwing distance in the wet slushy stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay, thanks for the suggestions. Wet and slushy is usually on the menu for PA winters. Always have some ethanol free for my equipment, didn’t even cross my mind to drain that old gas. Previous owner said that he only used ethanol free, but I know how that goes. He was selling for 800 and I talked him down to 600 because of the little bit of rust, seized augers, and age. I think I got a deal, time will tell. The first thing I did after I bought the machine was download the manual, so we’re set there.
 

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Seems like a good deal to me. This machine can last 50 years if engine doesnt smoke and the transmission drives smoothly. All parts are still available.
I tell people all the time if you keep up on maintenance the machine will outlast you.

good score.
 

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Okay, thanks for the suggestions. Wet and slushy is usually on the menu for PA winters. Always have some ethanol free for my equipment, didn’t even cross my mind to drain that old gas. Previous owner said that he only used ethanol free, but I know how that goes. He was selling for 800 and I talked him down to 600 because of the little bit of rust, seized augers, and age. I think I got a deal, time will tell. The first thing I did after I bought the machine was download the manual, so we’re set there.
I agree that you got a deal. Get it up and running and invest in a little pre and post season maintenance and it will last a very long time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Glad to hear it. Started right up and seemed to run well before I took the augers apart. Looking forward to some snow (sort of) to try it out.
 
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