[orangputeh]

you will ruin that wheel by using that puller. it won't stay true if too much pressure is used.

jesus, you are going to ruin the threads at end of that drive shaft. install the bolt first before using the puller. sometimes I just cut the damn bearing off.

 

[orangputeh]

It all worked out. At this point I had the new part before I tried this. But yes the pulley is a taco. I was watching any issues with threads, they survived. If it didn’t let go I was going to cut a relief in the bushing with an angle grinder.

Up to this I had tried pulling without the sheetmetal pulley on but didn’t have enough bite on it, even cutting notches in it. After I welded the pulley on and I knew I was going to destroy it I didn’t bother cutting it back off. Once I couldn’t get this resolved in the short time I had I soaked overnight with PB blaster, then another day with Evaporust. Sometimes you have to break stuff to see what it takes. 🤣

Map gas is the best I had for heat. In the end, it was the puller, Map, Snow cycles and a punch and 2lb sledge.

Turns out the bearing (that sounded like a box of rocks) was fused as well and took effort to remove as well.

If I had to save it I would have taken the suggestion of the previous reply and got it into the press.

It won’t happen again, everything is coated in anti sieze. Of everything I’ve used it has seemed to last and keep the moisture out and allow everything to break loose.

where did you get that new pulley wheel? most places say NLA but our dealer had one awhile ago still in package.
I usually get them from parts machines.

I have 2 that were bent when owner tried to pull them off with puller. do you have a good suggestion on if they can be straightened back. I have tried large vises and gotten close but no cigar.

they are so rare around here ( there are 2 types. one with splines and one with woodruff key ) that I am keeping these until I find a good way to make true.

 

[orangputeh]

I got it from Truckee Rents Jan 2nd, not sure of who it is there, but there’s one guy that does some helpful leg work in cross referencing parts. This was the splined version.

If I had to keep it I would have been nicer to it. If I had to reuse it I’d put it in a press and start working high spots on both sides and keep rotating. If you have an oxy torch it wouldn’t hurt. When I started pulling I was rotating it to try to keep it straight…at some point I gave up. As I was doing it I was thinking of how nice some threaded holes near the center would be (like a brake drum) to help pull this.

Before I got the new one I had high expectations of what how true it needed to be, new one still wobbles a bit.

Could you drill holes all the way thru and then use nuts/washers on backside? Just a thought. Anyway I use this really expensive stuff called YIELD that can almost loosen anything. Sometimes It takes time. I had some augers stuck on the gearbox shafts that were hopelessly "welded" on by rust.

Sprayed some YIELD down the end hole and let it perculate. Tried everyday for a couple seconds and after 2 weeks the auger just fell off. $25 a can but worth it. I only use it for the impossible jobs. Like liquid gold IMO.

That guy at truckee rents is Steve. He;s a Honda whisperer. Have learned a ton from him. Whatever they pay him it's not what he is worth.

I love the older machines. My main machine is a HS80 and I have a HS55 for deck. 36 and 39 years old respectively.

good luck.