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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My HS828 offered an optional light kit. What is the wattage output of the magneto? Does this machine have an alternator? The Service Manual has no information on what wattage light may be mounted.
 

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Not sure what wattage the old halogens are. I have been changing the old bulbs with Par36 9w ac/dc LED bulbs which are much brighter and do not need any modifications.
Just plug them in.
 

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Does this machine have an alternator? The Service Manual has no information on what wattage light may be mounted.
Two types of 12V lamp coils were/are available: 12V–15W, 12V–25W. Two 25W coils can be installed in parallel to provide 12V-50W, if no charging coils are installed. Use parallel connector (No. 32105-ZE1-000) to connect two coils in parallel. There is also a full 50W kit: 31510-ZE2-P31: PartsPak - StackPath
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Two types of 12V lamp coils were/are available: 12V–15W, 12V–25W. Two 25W coils can be installed in parallel to provide 12V-50W, if no charging coils are installed. Use parallel connector (No. 32105-ZE1-000) to connect two coils in parallel. There is also a full 50W kit: 31510-ZE2-P31: PartsPak - StackPath
View attachment 182480
Thanks for the link. I found the part on Boats.net but the price has gone up to $110. Ouch. I found that part on the same fiche as the ignition coil, which mounts, as near as I can figure, under the fan cover next to the flywheel. One sets the air gap for the spark. Do these lighting coils mount nearby?

I suppose I'll have to take my fan cover off to see exactly what I have. Interestingly, the only lighting coil offered now is the 50W assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That PartsPak link I gave you has them for $80.53
Here's an older used one for $35: Honda OEM Snow Blower LAMP COIL ASSEMBLY (12V/50W) ~ Part Number 31510-ZE1-711 | eBay

They mount under the flywheel.
View attachment 182553
Thanks again. Is that a picture of your machine? I take it you installed this lighting kit.
Why does the manual say to remove the governor arm before removing the flywheel? I had my recoil cover off a couple of days ago, and that revealed the fan cover. I don't think (but I did not look closely) there was anything preventing removal of the fan and then the flywheel.

PartsPak says the dual coil is out of stock, on backorder and no date for delivery known. Boats.net shows it in stock (yeah, yeah, until you order it....). The used one is affordable, but I'll check to see what I have installed since I do have a single light on my machine. I'm thinking of going LED to increase light output for evening use.
 

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Thanks again. Is that a picture of your machine?
No, I have an HSS1332AATD with a large 3-winding coil (chute motors, lights & charging) on the GX390. I also have a GX240 like yours, but it is now on my Gardenway Chipper.
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Why does the manual say to remove the governor arm before removing the flywheel?
Can't imagine why. I just pop them off with a puller. I put a charging coil and e-start flywheel on the GXV120 on my HR214 mower; works exactly the same way as the GX240.
I'll check to see what I have installed since I do have a single light on my machine. I'm thinking of going LED to increase light output for evening use.
OK, since you already have a light, you most certainly already have a lighting coil in there. You can swap a PAR36 LED AC/DC light 9W into the round housing.
Here's an easy upgrade to a better LED light kit:

And PartsPak is showing 10 of these in stock:
 
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If you want to do the mechanical work, the GX270 can be converted from whatever you have as a stock alternator up to 50 watt-4.4Amps, to 120watt-10A or even 218watt-18amp with different flywheel/lighting coil configurations. Flywheels are available in one, two and four magnet styles with and without starter ring gears. And coils are available in the different amperage configuration coils of single, dual (two choices), and multiple wind.
Each will also increase cycle frequency if you want a more linier DC output thru a diode setup.
I have changed mine out to the 10 amp (dual coils with a 4 pole flywheel) to run a power chute motor. (and have the stock 50w parts for sale if anyone is interested -- coils and 2 pole flywheel.)
All will require removal of the pull starter and fan housing and of course removal of the flywheel for replacement of parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you want to do the mechanical work, the GX270 can be converted from whatever you have as a stock alternator up to 50 watt-4.4Amps, to 120watt-10A or even 218watt-18amp with different flywheel/lighting coil configurations. Flywheels are available in one, two and four magnet styles with and without starter ring gears. And coils are available in the different amperage configuration coils of single, dual (two choices), and multiple wind.
Each will also increase cycle frequency if you want a more linier DC output thru a diode setup.
I have changed mine out to the 10 amp (dual coils with a 4 pole flywheel) to run a power chute motor. (and have the stock 50w parts for sale if anyone is interested -- coils and 2 pole flywheel.)
All will require removal of the pull starter and fan housing and of course removal of the flywheel for replacement of parts.
As I said, I pulled my flywheel and have the 50 watt coils. Where did you find the higher wattage flywheels? Did you make your own rectifier or use a premade one? I can see upgrading my flywheel so I can add Oxford Heated grips. For an old snowblower (and older operator) that would be the cat's pajamas.
 

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Originally I had the 50watt setup and powered an LED PAR 36 replacement light, (draws 9 watt and fits right in the rubber truck housing used for many years as stock Honda part). I added a set of Ariens 35 watt heated grips and ran both on the AC setup for about 5 years.
The reason I changed to DC is to run a non OEM chute motor, and the 10 amp system is so I don't have to use a battery (less storage maintenance problems). The diode bridge is a 25A 50V with two 2000 mfd capacitors in parallel on the DC output side. (common electrical parts available most anywhere) But I also had to add an electronic buck/boost transformer to regulate the voltage. AC output is 9v at idle up to 30v at 3600 rpm, the transformer keeps it at 12V.

The Honda motor parts -- just look up the parts diagrams, most of the dealers will show the 5 different flywheel/magnet configurations that are possible to use with the GX270, but to increase the amperage output you need to go to the heavier wound coils rated for whatever amperage you choose, Changing just the flywheel (with a larger number of magnets) will only increase voltage and the frequency of the AC, not add amperage.
 

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Almost all HS624, HS724, HS828, HS928, HS1132, HS1332 came with some sort of lighting coil pre installed from factory under the flywheel, no need to take off the flywheel to check, usually there is an extra cable next to flywheel cover on the right side, if its not being used then its usually taped and zip tied there from factory.

Check out this thread with more videos and testing of the OE coil, at WOT it produces way more than 12V.

 

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Have an update on your light install? Are you going with the optional lighting kit? Are you wanting go LED?


As I said, I pulled my flywheel and have the 50 watt coils. Where did you find the higher wattage flywheels? Did you make your own rectifier or use a premade one? I can see upgrading my flywheel so I can add Oxford Heated grips. For an old snowblower (and older operator) that would be the cat's pajamas.
Almost all HS624, HS724, HS828, HS928, HS1132, HS1332 came with some sort of lighting coil pre installed from factory under the flywheel, no need to take off the flywheel to check, usually there is an extra cable next to flywheel cover on the right side, if its not being used then its usually taped and zip tied there from factory.

Check out this thread with more videos and testing of the OE coil, at WOT it produces way more than 12V.

I have an old HS828 and have had 20+ trouble free years blowing snow with the manual chute controls. Yes, I can see the advantage and convenience of the joystick, however, it looks more complicated to me, and a friend in Canada is stuck because a chute motor died and the replacement cost is high. Honda fixed something that was not broken, made it more complicated and expensive. I do have to add, that I generally do not taking a bunch of parts off a machine in order to gain access to what needs attention. Digging down to the belts on these machines looks like more needs to be disassembled than the older models.
 

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^^ I dont use the optional light kit unless the machine comes with it. If the machine comes with it then I ditch the Halogen light, use the light bracket and install an LED light.

If a machine doesnt have the bracket then I just make my own, same design as the straight post type from the newer (2010+) HS 928/1332 models but just a few inches taller as the factory bracket, this helps getting most of the light output from the LED over the bucket.

It takes me a few hours to set up the LED control box, wiring harness etc but the result is far better than just using wire taps etc. Plus with the control box that includes the capacitors, AC/DC rectifier and step down convertor I can guarantee that the LEDs would not be damaged with the high voltage from the factory AC coils.

Here is an example of where everything goes on the underside of the control cover, looks more cumbersome here as this machine also had the heated grips installed.

 
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