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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an HS828 WA/A SZAK 2026493. I gathered the parts to replace both belts. As I’m taking things apart I noticed that the auger bearing was shot so that got replaced as well. I mounted the drive belt and before doing anything else I happened to grab the drive pulley and gave it a wiggle. To my surprise there was a lot of slop. My first thought was there might have been an internal bearing in the transmission that might need replacement. I started looking in the factory shop manual and compared what I was seeing on my machine. As I wiggled the pulley around I noticed that it was really the transmission rocking on the transmission mounting plate. There are two bolts detailed on page 14-2 of the service manual that show this assembly and as I found out later even more detailed on page 14-11, paragraph 1. I attempted to tighten these bolts/nuts but found them already tight. So now I’m scratching my head as to why the transmission is not firm attached to the mounting plate.
Near as I can figure out is that the two are NOT supposed to be firmly attached. In the Hydrostatic Transmission Installation, page 14-11, para 1 shows a collar, pc 2, mounted in between two plain washers, pc 4, with a wave washer. This configuration does not allow the bolt/nut to tight on the mounting bracket.

So here’s my question, am I correct to assume that the transmission is not supposed to be firmly bolted to the transmission mounting plate?

Also, I wanted to post the two pictures of the original belts I replaced. I was shocked at the condition of the drive belt and had to wonder how it was even working. I’m sure you can tell which on is the drive belt.
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Eye Automotive tire Jaw Gesture Wood
 

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Thank you for your reply orangputeh. Thought I was going to quote you on this. My local Honda dealer could not come to this conclusion, little scary.
Well, your question comes up from time to time because other owners have the same concerns. I also thought something was wrong at first. I have run across a cracked plate one time but that was an obvious defect .
People have asked me the why on certain things and I don't have an answer. This tranny "floats" for a reason but I can not tell you why. We have made several improvements to the older Honda's by installing impeller kits, installing a grease zerk into the final drive gearbox and pumping in new grease once in awhile to hopefully prolong it's life, welded in gussets where the handlebars curve for support, since they crack there, installed a rubber grommet where the plastic part breaks for the chuter that connects to bars . I do all this to every Honda I build or service for anyone .( not the gussets unless the owner wants it )
 

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BTW, As you know if you have to replace both belts you have to remove the bucket but if you just need to replace the DRIVE belt you do NOT have to remove bucket.

Also anytime I remove the bucket I always replace the impeller bearing . When you replace the bearing be sure to use thread locker on the bolts for the bearing keeper. The side auger bearings rarely need replacing but I do use a pick to remove rubber seal and pack some new grease in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
installing impeller kits, installing a grease zerk into the final drive gearbox and pumping in new grease once in awhile to hopefully prolong it's life
Saw the threads about the zerk, sounds like a good idea before the fall. Impeller kit has been on the radar mostly to help with the wet snow.

When you replace the bearing be sure to use thread locker on the bolts for the bearing keeper.
Hmm had not thought about this, not a bad idea.
 

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Saw the threads about the zerk, sounds like a good idea before the fall. Impeller kit has been on the radar mostly to help with the wet snow.


Hmm had not thought about this, not a bad idea.
Everyone I have installed an impeller kit raves about them. It's worth the effort.
I learned the hardway ( as usual ) about not putting the thread locker on those bolts. They don't always back off due to vibration but one time they did and what a lot of unnecessary work.
I use a lot of anti seize grease on repairs. Honda's usually don't need too many repairs if totally maintained. Most of the machines I work on havent been touched in 15-20 years or more and it can be a real headache removing seized bolts. I'm just making it easier for next guy. probably won't be wrenching on the same machine in 20 years. Hope so. My goal is to live until 96 and to keel over dead in garage listening to Led Zeppelin REAL LOUD!
 

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Paulsadog, I will add to GOT's list of improvements to the 2 stage Hondas, I add a grease fitting to the right and left augers. Here in Ontario, the streets are peppered with salt, which ends up in the end of your driveway. Will seize the rakes to the auger shaft, thus the shear bolts don't get a chance to break and could take out the auger gear box. $$$$
On a 24 " blower I install the fittings 3 3/4 " from the face of the shear bolt boss. I also add one to the impeller shaft, 2 " from the end of the impeller shaft towards the auger gear box. but I think he mentioned that above........Just my 3 cents
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Anytime I go to the dealer about a mechanical question I politely ask to speak to their head tech. The guys behind the counter sometimes are not mechanics.
To be fair your original question was a good one about an extremely rare one that comes up. Many techs probably have not been asked this . 95% of Honda owners I know do not dig this deep into a machine. I try to help people save money on doing their own maintenance and repairs through my group but most do not have the time or confidence to try.
 
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