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Discussion Starter #1
I have two issues with my 1999 HS928 W. It has a worn (distorted) clevis pin hole in the left wheel hub (not the driven axle). This results in some play in that wheel (left). The right one is "rust welded" to the drive axle. The left one is under the oil drain, thus it has been fairly well oiled over the years. The right one? Not so much.

What is the best way to deal with the distorted hole in the wheel hub. New hub? Drill bolt the hub AND axle out a bit and use the next bigger size pin? Oddly enough, it is only one of the holes on one side of the hub.

Video here

The second issue, what is the best way to deal with "rust welded" right side hub? I've not attempted anything with it yet. My usual go-to for something like this is Kroil. If no success, then heat and pneumatic air hammer. My concerns are.... Heat. Too much will ruin the rubber of the tire if it conducts up that far. Air hammer: Excessive impact to the end of the drive/axle shaft.

The hubs appear to be bolted on to the wheel. Are these wheels "split rim"? If I unbolt the hub from the wheel, can I move it further in (out of the way of the hub) to heat the hub?
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It should be a 'Split Rim'.
Unbolt the wheel, first remove the air in the tire, then move it in towards the frame away from the hub before you try to heat it.
You could use a 'Clam shell' or 2 piece bearing puller adapter to place behind the hub, then set up the 'pressure screw' with adaptor against the wheel axle and attach it to the bearing puller/clam shell, then try to pull it off.
Sometimes by using an air operated 'Impact' wrench, the impacts will help loosen the hub.
I have already removed frozen ones by placing a 2x4 piece of wood or long pry bar between the wheel and frame and while trying to pry it off we used a steel rod against the axle and beat on it with a big hammer.
You have to be careful that you don't expand or 'Mushroom' the axle end or you will get it stuck on and be harder to remove.
You could re drill the holes in the wheel hub or just replace it with a new one. The axle holes could be a bit worn. The axle is made of harder material than the wheel hub, so the hub holes will wear out faster than the axle.
 

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Troy-Bilt 11/30 Storm 8.5/27 Craftsman II Husqvarna 580 BTSII Backpack Husqvarna125B Handheld Blower
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A cobalt bit will rip through axle and rim like butter if you want to use a larger bolt. Use a good (grade 5 or preferably 8) bolt instead of a pin. On my craftsman when my spring pin broke after 20 years of slight movement/rust I made a bushing for the wallowed out hole on one side out of a piece of copper pipe. I put in a bolt that fit tightly in the axle and tightened it up (after applying antiseize). There was very slight movement but better than any pin.

On the seized side I would remove the tire and take a short piece of steel with holes drilled the same distace as 2 of the diagonal mounting bolts. Use long bolts and a spacer on the end of the axle (maybe an impact socket) and use as a puller. Apply pressure and spray with PB Blaster or Kroil. Tap with a hammer and try a little heat. If it wont budge leave it with pressure on it and go do something else.. Everytime you walk by give it a couple taps. More than once Ive left parts with pressure on them only to come back and find they've seperate.
 

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i would just drill a new hole opposite the other holes. do this all the time with tracked wheels.

BTW , take care of that other wheel being "welded" to axle or else you will be sorry in future.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks to all for the help. Unfortunately, I don't have a "comfortable" winter workshop (never mind the fact that recent hand surgery has left me pretty much one-handed).

I suspect both issues with the machine have been like this for quite some time. What's another 1/2 season... I am going to wait until spring when I am not under the gun for a working machine, it's warmer, and I expect to have the use of my hand by then. Oh, by the way, I had the model wrong. It's an 828, not a 928.

In the mean time, with some coaxing and sweet talk, I was able to get the 6mm pin out of the right (welded side) wheel hub. Yes, the hub is rusted on pretty well. For now, I put a slightly smaller grade 5 in there with a nylock nut. I've also sprayed inside and out with PBlaster and given the whole assembly a few taps with a hammer. I'm not going much further until spring. If by chance it decides to cooperate and break loose on its own with use over the rest of the season, I'll deal with it then. The grade 5 is small enough that there is slight play in the hole. NOTHING like the pin was... This allows my a little access to spray the PBlaster in with a straw. Otherwise it'll have to wait.
 

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man, why did you either bother asking for help if you ain't gonna do it right?
 

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orangputeh, I have to say I'm surprised at your response. We've "conversed" before and had some decent conversations and advice. In the past I've respected your advice. I certainly didn't see this coming.

<<why did you either bother asking for help if you ain't gonna do it right? >>

But since you ask, the reason(s) I bothered are for starters, I didn't know what I was up against when I found the two issues. So I thought this might be a good place for advice. I've been here before and had favorable responses. Second, between my workshop situation and not having full use of both hands at this time, it makes it difficult to take much action at this time. I was unaware that by participating in the forum I was obligated to take action on any and all advice given.

From a mechanical standpoint (I trust your response is regarding my temporary solution of a smaller pin in the axle). What harm can it do? It's frozen anyway. The pin is not protecting nor mechanically driving anything at this point. The only good that could POSSIBLY come form this is that over the course of the rest of the season it MAY loosen up, saving me the arduous task of heating, pulling, banging, pressing etc. to get it off.

What's the worst that could happen? It loosens up, I don't see it immediately assuming I run the machine 50 more hours (highly unlikely as I probably run the machine 20 hours a season) and it distorts the holes in the hub, like the left one. Even if the wheel binds up. The thinner grade 5 bolt is going to sacrifice with MUCH less force than the original pin would have.

I just don't understand why you're so jammed. What do I have to lose by doing this at this time?
 

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I have two issues with my 1999 HS928 W. It has a worn (distorted) clevis pin hole in the left wheel hub (not the driven axle). This results in some play in that wheel (left). The right one is "rust welded" to the drive axle. The left one is under the oil drain, thus it has been fairly well oiled over the years. The right one? Not so much.

What is the best way to deal with the distorted hole in the wheel hub. New hub? Drill bolt the hub AND axle out a bit and use the next bigger size pin? Oddly enough, it is only one of the holes on one side of the hub.

Video here

The second issue, what is the best way to deal with "rust welded" right side hub? I've not attempted anything with it yet. My usual go-to for something like this is Kroil. If no success, then heat and pneumatic air hammer. My concerns are.... Heat. Too much will ruin the rubber of the tire if it conducts up that far. Air hammer: Excessive impact to the end of the drive/axle shaft.

The hubs appear to be bolted on to the wheel. Are these wheels "split rim"? If I unbolt the hub from the wheel, can I move it further in (out of the way of the hub) to heat the hub?
View attachment 176296 View attachment 176297 View attachment 176298
when you are ready to get them off, I would start WD 40 them to death
 

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I have two issues with my 1999 HS928 W. It has a worn (distorted) clevis pin hole in the left wheel hub (not the driven axle). This results in some play in that wheel (left). The right one is "rust welded" to the drive axle. The left one is under the oil drain, thus it has been fairly well oiled over the years. The right one? Not so much.

What is the best way to deal with the distorted hole in the wheel hub. New hub? Drill bolt the hub AND axle out a bit and use the next bigger size pin? Oddly enough, it is only one of the holes on one side of the hub.

Video here

The second issue, what is the best way to deal with "rust welded" right side hub? I've not attempted anything with it yet. My usual go-to for something like this is Kroil. If no success, then heat and pneumatic air hammer. My concerns are.... Heat. Too much will ruin the rubber of the tire if it conducts up that far. Air hammer: Excessive impact to the end of the drive/axle shaft.

The hubs appear to be bolted on to the wheel. Are these wheels "split rim"? If I unbolt the hub from the wheel, can I move it further in (out of the way of the hub) to heat the hub?
View attachment 176296 View attachment 176297 View attachment 176298
WD 40
 

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One thing to be careful of when drilling new holes in an axle. You can weaken the axle by doing that, removing the metal.
Just something to think about before drilling new holes in it, or even re-drilling the existing holes out to a larger diameter to place a thicker pin in.
You should be O.K. cross drilling the wheel hub at a 90 degree angle, but I'd be a little worried about doing that to the axle.
 

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You should be O.K. cross drilling the wheel hub at a 90 degree angle, but I'd be a little worried about doing that to the axle.
If you cross drilled the hub at 90 degrees to the original diameter, why would you cross drill the axle?
 
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I’d assume risk of snapping the axle. Removing all that material on the same axis...
And again, why drill the axle at all? If the hub has been cross drilled to the original pin diameter, wouldn't the original axle hole be used?
 

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There might be a few things more appropriate than Water Displacement 40 for penetrating... PB Blaster, for example.
I agree with that, 100% but I have had good luck with my WD 40, I know the history of it, but I guess I never had a really bad problem that this did not work for me??
 

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And again, why drill the axle at all? If the hub has been cross drilled to the original pin diameter, wouldn't the original axle hole be used?
To get all of the slop out. It’ll work for a while. Then welding and re drilling will be the only route.

Click pins are all well and good but I’d almost prefer a splined or keyed hub zero slop. I might drill a shouldered bolt to fasten the wheel and axle together on the snapper and simplicity.
 

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I'd start soaking the frozen axle w/ PB, Kroil, or the penetrating brand of your choice, and keep soaking it say every week or so. Put a rag under the pinned joint so you don't stink up the garage by spilling the stuff on the concrete floor. If you end up using the snowblower, check the axle every half hour or so, I'd not want the undersized bolt in there for long because you might damage the axle's hole.

If it does not free up on its own, you can get a mushroom head for an air impact hammer. Use this not on the end of the shaft, but on the side to vibrate the rusted parts loose. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Minor update: I have been spraying it with PBlaster since my first post. Both the end of the axle and the hub/axle holes (with pin removed). I rotate the wheel so the hole is horizontal. I think it provides a little better penetration at that angle.

I was talking to an auto mechanic friend of mine yesterday and he suggested trying this to remove the hub from the axle. He has one he is going to loan me. An induction heater. Apparently, I lead a sheltered life. I've never even heard of one of these until yesterday.

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On the elongated hole project. I LOVE the idea of cross drilling the hub hole. Thus sparing the axle from weakening. I suspect I'd need to remove the tire and two hub halves to get a perfectly straight shot at the hub. My tires still have the 1999 air in them. Any thing I need to be aware of when splitting the rims? Should I be able to reuse the gasket?

I notice that the hubs are no longer available. That they "redirect" you over to a new, one piece wheel design.
 
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