Snowblower Forum banner
21 - 40 of 64 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
815 Posts
Oh Freezn- I'm guessing that the housing issue causes more of an issue with the tracks than with the wheeled version. But I can see similar challenges to some extent…
Reason I ask, is because in order for my bucket to sit level (using a 24" bubble level), my right skid (standing behind the machine looking forward) needs to be about a 1/4" lower (closer to the ground) than my left skid, otherwise if I placed both skids at the exact same height on a level surface, the front bucket would rock to the right. So I typically level the bucket first (right side lower), then adjust the scraper bar, with slightly more angle on the right side to compensate for the wider gap on the right side between the ground and the bottom of the scraper bar. If I drew an imaginary line straight across the middle of all five scraper bar mounting holes and lined up the top edge of the scraper bar with the imaginary line, the right side of the scraper bar would be about 1/4" - 1/2" higher than the left side. Only way to compensate is to lower the right side scraper bar which takes it out of alignment with the imaginary line, however maintains even ground clearance from left to right on the scraper bar.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DaveS

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,956 Posts
Very impressive… and I'm sure a similar approach would work on mine as well- seems like the same exact issue. I just wish I was that handy!! Nicely done.

Unfortunately I'll just has to live with this the best I can… just like my aging back! LOL
Thanks! It was actually a job I initially planned to farm out...until I got a quote for 3+ hrs of work :eek:. I bet it would've been a 4hr job even for a Pro. There was a long bead for the chute, which bridged the impeller and auger housing, that concerned him the most.

It prompted me to purchase a welder...then a little liquid courage to start grinding the welds. On an old Toro, it's hard to justify the expense however on a Honda, it would be money well spent IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,575 Posts
Some of them were out due to alignment at the factory and could be re adjusted that way by loosening the bolts, twisting the unit, and retightening the bolts.
That was listed in the Honda service bulletin to try to fix that problem.
That would work if the auger housing is only very slightly cocked or tilted, but there were a couple thousand made that were too far tilted or cocked and that fix will not work properly, it will be only a quick temporary fix and it wont hold. After using it, it will slip back to the cocked tilted position again.
I have an 828tas and an 828was that are both out by almost 2 inches, the left side is lower than the right side.
That was the reason Honda replaced some under warrenty on the housings, they were too far out to be adjusted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,575 Posts
Can we assume that on the production line when installed you could get one with the "slop" in the bolt hole to stud/bolt you could get a straighter auger or a less straight auger do to bolt hole to stud/bolt location while cinching up the nut? So if you have one of these screwed up models, time to loosen up the auger and turn the twist out as far as you can and re tighten the nuts.
Some of them were out due to alignment at the factory and could be re adjusted that way by loosening the bolts, twisting the unit, and retightening the bolts.
That was listed in the Honda service bulletin to try to fix that problem.
That would work if the auger housing is only very slightly cocked or tilted, but there were a couple thousand made that were too far tilted or cocked and that fix will not work properly, it will be only a quick temporary fix and it wont hold. After using it, it will slip back to the cocked tilted position again.
I have an 828tas and an 828was that are both out by almost 2 inches, the left side is lower than the right side.
That was the reason Honda replaced some under warrenty on the housings, they were too far out to be adjusted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Reason I ask, is because in order for my bucket to sit level (using a 24" bubble level), my right skid (standing behind the machine looking forward) needs to be about a 1/4" lower (closer to the ground) than my left skid, otherwise if I placed both skids at the exact same height on a level surface, the front bucket would rock to the right. So I typically level the bucket first (right side lower), then adjust the scraper bar, with slightly more angle on the right side to compensate for the wider gap on the right side between the ground and the bottom of the scraper bar. If I drew an imaginary line straight across the middle of all five scraper bar mounting holes and lined up the top edge of the scraper bar with the imaginary line, the right side of the scraper bar would be about 1/4" - 1/2" higher than the left side. Only way to compensate is to lower the right side scraper bar which takes it out of alignment with the imaginary line, however maintains even ground clearance from left to right on the scraper bar.
Yep… all makes sense and is basically what I have done I think. I just double checked my set up and noticed my blower was leaving more snow on the ground after I ran a pass with it. I guess when the right side was too low (auger getting real close to the ground) I had enough adjustment on the left side. Problem is my scraper is at its lowest setting on the left side now and I can't drop it anymore. A new scraper might allow me more adjustment. At least I know what's going on and it's not just me!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
815 Posts
A good friend of mine is a metal fabricator. I might just ask him if he can custom fabricate a scraper bar (using mine as a template) leaving the right side of the scraper bar a 1/2" lower than the left side. That way I can level the scraper bar with the inside of the auger bucket (ie. all 5 mounting holes at the same exact height) and still have level ground clearance with the bottom of the scraper bar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
Can we assume that on the production line when installed you could get one with the "slop" in the bolt hole to stud/bolt you could get a straighter auger or a less straight auger do to bolt hole to stud/bolt location while cinching up the nut? So if you have one of these screwed up models, time to loosen up the auger and turn the twist out as far as you can and re tighten the nuts.
This is assuming (I hate that word, never use it) that the bolt hole was elongated to allow such...there is NO mention of this anywhere
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
841 Posts
Sorry I'm late to the discussion. :p

Honda did issue a Service Bulletin back in Feb. 2006 for HS724TA, HS928TA, and HS1132TA track-drive models (not wheel models) that "did not track straight." The cause is due to the auger housing being lower on one side, dragging the ground and causing the unit to pull to that side.

Once this problem was detected, future production units were corrected, so only units within the following serial number ranges are part of the affected group:

HS724TA 1000001~1039742
HS928TA 1000001~1154063
HS1132TA 1000001~1020083

So, if you have a unit with this problem and it is inside the affected range, what next?
Well, if you are under warranty (3 years), a Honda dealer can evaluate the problem and make repairs. If the pulling issue is due to factory defect(s), repairs will be done at no cost. If you are OUT of warranty, the dealer can still make repairs, but the cost would not be covered.

The basic repair procedure is this:

1. Precisely measure the auger housing height on the left and right sides. Honda's special height measurement tool is recommended. For 7mm or less difference, usually only a skid shoe or scraper bar adjustment is needed.

2. If the difference is 8mm or greater, the auger height can be adjusted (requires loosening (NOT REMOVAL)) of the track, track plate, etc. If the left auger housing is higher than the right, adjustments are made to the right, and vice-versa.

3. If after step 2, the difference is still 7mm or more, the auger housing should be replaced.

If you need to discuss with your dealer, reference Honda Snowblower Service Bulletin #19, February 2006.

Find A Honda Dealer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
Well… as I'd expect- my HS928 is in that range! I will call my dealer but at this time, I'm not sure I would pay the money to fix something that should have been covered years ago.:mad:

Oh and thanks for posting this Robert.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
841 Posts
Well… as I'd expect- my HS928 is in that range! I will call my dealer but at this time, I'm not sure I would pay the money to fix something that should have been covered years ago.:mad:

Oh and thanks for posting this Robert.
Are you very far out of the the 3-year warranty?

If you're not sure, share the serial number with me and I can look it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Are you very far out of the the 3-year warranty?

If you're not sure, share the serial number with me and I can look it up.
Yeah, I bought mine about 10 years ago actually. S/N 1114xxx or something like that.

Is loosening the track plate, etc a lot of work? I just got a shop manual- I'll try to see what it looks like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
841 Posts
Yeah, I bought mine about 10 years ago actually. S/N 1114xxx or something like that.

Is loosening the track plate, etc a lot of work? I just got a shop manual- I'll try to see what it looks like.
No, not bad at all. Drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send you a copy of the bulletin; it has complete and detailed instructions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Thank you very much Robert. I performed the exact steps in the bulletin. Originally I was about 12-13mm high on the left. I loosened the flange bolts per directions, etc. and now I'm about 8mm… which is just about the limit to acceptable before they recommend replacing the housing. Ironically I didn't think the track moved at all but apparently it did. I think I'm good to go, as there is probably some variation in my garage floor anyway.

With this adjustment and the side skids, I'm sure it will be better now. Where were you 10 years ago Robert??? LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I know this thread is old, I sent Robert a DM to ask for a copy of the service bulletin #19 but it says he hasn't been active since 2019. Does anyone else have a copy they could send me so I can try to adjust the track plates as well?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,047 Posts
service bulletin #19
What's your serial number? Does it fall within the affected range?
HS724TA 1000001~1039742
HS928TA 1000001~1154063
HS1132TA 1000001~1020083

The basic repair procedure is this:

1. Precisely measure the auger housing height on the left and right sides. Honda's special height measurement tool is recommended. For 7mm or less difference, usually only a skid shoe or scraper bar adjustment is needed.

2. If the difference is 8mm or greater, the auger height can be adjusted (requires loosening (NOT REMOVAL)) of the track, track plate, etc. If the left auger housing is higher than the right, adjustments are made to the right, and vice-versa.

3. If after step 2, the difference is still 7mm or more, the auger housing should be replaced.

You can also loosen all 10 of the bolts holding the auger housing to the tractor and see if you can straighten it enough that way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
My serial number falls in the zone on the HS928TA and I have the issue. The reason I want the exact procedure is I want to understand what bolts they are loosening and and what ones they are leaving on the crawler/track plates.
 

·
Premium GOT Member
Joined
·
10,434 Posts
My serial number falls in the zone on the HS928TA and I have the issue. The reason I want the exact procedure is I want to understand what bolts they are loosening and and what ones they are leaving on the crawler/track plates.
In my experience it takes a lot of trial and error. With the bucket off you can measure the diagonals ( which should be the same measurement ) on the front of engine bed as a start. The bolts that connect the engine bed plates can be loosened and adjusted to square it up.

I guess I have been lucky so far. I have not had to try to adjust the side crawler plates. I do take them off if the bearings need replacing. Easy to tell if there is play with the plates.

When I install the housing I always just start all the 10 bolts and then from the service position of the machine laying back on the handlebars , I lift the bucket from the bottom and tighten the 2 bottom bolts first and then the top corners. You want the bucket tilting up as much as possible. Learned this thru trial and error.When the bucket is tilted down even a couple mm's the machine will not track correctly no matter how many adjustment you make with the scraper bar and skids.

There may be an actual official Honda procedure but I do everything learned thru my own trial and error.

I have had a couple buckets that have been tweeked by accidents. People backing into them with vehicles, hit but plows etc. Have straightened them out by clamping long 2 X 4's on the top and tweeking them back into place but I think that is a totally different topic for you.

You should read @tabora's post above again. he is the tech whiz when it comes to Honda's. the go to guy. there are a couple others like JnC and ST1100A and others but most of these guys are not active now.
 

·
Registered
Honda HS1132
Joined
·
13 Posts
Hi everyone. New guy here. Lots of great info on this site. I have an 1132 where the bucket sits about an inch lower on the right side. I have had the bucket off to do the belts, and I followed the way @orangputeh described in his last post about putting it back on. It’s still way lower on the right side than the left.
If I could make the track plate adjustments as described above here, and I could get it closer, I’d be very happy.

Do any of you have the details or some pics of what exactly needs to be adjusted on the track plates? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
21 - 40 of 64 Posts
Top