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Hi everyone. New guy here. Lots of great info on this site. I have an 1132 where the bucket sits about an inch lower on the right side. I have had the bucket off to do the belts, and I followed the way @orangputeh described in his last post about putting it back on. It’s still way lower on the right side than the left.
If I could make the track plate adjustments as described above here, and I could get it closer, I’d be very happy.

Do any of you have the details or some pics of what exactly needs to be adjusted on the track plates? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
pictures may help. wanna see if the bucket is worn down on one side over the other.
an inch difference is HUGE
 

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on a completely level surface can you measure both sides of the end of engine bed with the pedal in the travel ( up ) position?
in picture by what i mean is ends of engine bed on far left.

I wonder if your engine bed could be cocked that much. I have seen that with bad engine bed bearings.

as a matter of fact ran into that yesterday when one of the bearings holding the drive axle was completely gone! and the bed was tilted to that side.
 

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on a completely level surface can you measure both sides of the end of engine bed with the pedal in the travel ( up ) position?
in picture by what i mean is ends of engine bed on far left.

I wonder if your engine bed could be cocked that much. I have seen that with bad engine bed bearings.

as a matter of fact ran into that yesterday when one of the bearings holding the drive axle was completely gone! and the bed was tilted to that side.
I’ll check the engine bed after work tomorrow. I’ll take some pics as well. I appreciate the help.
 

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Took some pics of the engine bed. Right side is 5mm lower than left. This is in travel mode, on level ground, and machine just sitting statically on the floor.
So, start with the track leveling and then the auger housing loosening/adjusting if necessary, followed by scraper bar and skid adjustments.
  1. Track leveling to fix the first 5mm difference in the tractor measurements: loosening (NOT REMOVAL) of the track tension nuts, track plate bolts, etc. If the left side is higher than the right, adjustments are made to the right, and vice-versa.
  2. Auger housing adjustment after tractor is level: loosen 10 bolts (2 on top, 2 on bottom, 3 on each side) holding auger housing to tractor. Adjust as level as possible and then re-tighten bolts.
  3. Adjust scraper bar to be perfectly level and re-tighten. Set it down onto a yardstick or other spacer, then set the skids flush on the floor and re-tighten.
 

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So, start with the track leveling and then the auger housing loosening/adjusting if necessary, followed by scraper bar and skid adjustments.
  1. Track leveling to fix the first 5mm difference in the tractor measurements: loosening (NOT REMOVAL) of the track, track plate, etc. If the left side is higher than the right, adjustments are made to the right, and vice-versa.
  2. Auger housing adjustment after tractor is level: loosen 10 bolts holding auger housing to tractor. Adjust as level as possible and then re-tighten bolts.
  3. Adjust scraper bar to be perfectly level and re-tighten. Set it down onto a yardstick or other spacer, then set the skids flush on the floor and re-tighten.
Thank you for helping out. What is it that I’m adjusting on the track and track plate? Which bolts?
 

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Put the snow blower on level ground and measure both handlebars to the floor. If they are significantly off as well, you might have the same problem I had. Everything was not square from the center, and by the time you get out to the auger housing corners and the handles, everything is noticeably off.

At the center, there are six sides that form a cube around the hydrostatic transmission. The top being the engine bed, the right, left, bottom, and back engine bed stays, and the front side is completed by mating to the auger housing. I had to take all six sides apart and then put them all back together, except for the auger housing. With the five sides together, use a flat surface such as a concrete floor to make sure everything is square, then slowly bolt all sides together evenly. Resist the temptation to use an electric driver. A right angle tool and bubble level help too. Once everything is square and bolted down, put on crawler plates, crawlers, and tracks. Check level at each step. Lastly roll everything up to the auger housing and bolt.

I had to do this for my HS624TA. You might need extra hands to steady the engine bed (handle bars make it hard to keep everything balanced) and the right transmission case all together as you start the bolts. A warning though, this is a lot of work. I would only do this for a Honda snow blower. Anything else I would not have cared enough or just sold it.

Anyways this fixed my problem where my right handlebar and right side of the auger housing was noticeably lower than the left side. It was so bad, the right handle was 1.2" lower than the left. I thought the previous owner had crushed the snow blower and bent something on the right side. One more thing, if you already have the right transmission case off you might as well repack with new grease or even drill and tap a grease fitting.
 

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Put the snow blower on level ground and measure both handlebars to the floor. If they are significantly off as well, you might have the same problem I had. Everything was not square from the center, and by the time you get out to the auger housing corners and the handles, everything is noticeably off.

At the center, there are six sides that form a cube around the hydrostatic transmission. The top being the engine bed, the right, left, bottom, and back engine bed stays, and the front side is completed by mating to the auger housing. I had to take all six sides apart and then put them all back together, except for the auger housing. With the five sides together, use a flat surface such as a concrete floor to make sure everything is square, then slowly bolt all sides together evenly. Resist the temptation to use an electric driver. A right angle tool and bubble level help too. Once everything is square and bolted down, put on crawler plates, crawlers, and tracks. Check level at each step. Lastly roll everything up to the auger housing and bolt.

I had to do this for my HS624TA. You might need extra hands to steady the engine bed (handle bars make it hard to keep everything balanced) and the right transmission case all together as you start the bolts. A warning though, this is a lot of work. I would only do this for a Honda snow blower. Anything else I would not have cared enough or just sold it.

Anyways this fixed my problem where my right handlebar and right side of the auger housing was noticeably lower than the left side. It was so bad, the right handle was 1.2" lower than the left. I thought the previous owner had crushed the snow blower and bent something on the right side. One more thing, if you already have the right transmission case off you might as well repack with new grease or even drill and tap a grease fitting.
Interesting. will have to try this someday. I'm not sure SOS can perform all this unless they have a shop manual with all the diagrams/instructions.

Took apart a 928 this week and it was obvious that the owner hadnt a clue when he took apart and put back together. EVERYTHING was put back together wrong. It was obvious the tracks were removed. The washer and collars were all on wrong. The auger/drive cables wrong. They were crossed inside the chassis where the tensioner is. Just about everything on this machine was a ******* fix.

I have had to repair engine bed, replace tensioner, replace engine , replace cable , replace replace replace. Hope owner can afford bill. I told him the only way I will repair this is the right way.
 

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Interesting. will have to try this someday. I'm not sure SOS can perform all this unless they have a shop manual with all the diagrams/instructions.

Took apart a 928 this week and it was obvious that the owner hadnt a clue when he took apart and put back together. EVERYTHING was put back together wrong. It was obvious the tracks were removed. The washer and collars were all on wrong. The auger/drive cables wrong. They were crossed inside the chassis where the tensioner is. Just about everything on this machine was a *** fix.

I have had to repair engine bed, replace tensioner, replace engine , replace cable , replace replace replace. Hope owner can afford bill. I told him the only way I will repair this is the right way.
Yes I agree that it can get complicated and is a lot of work. I don't really work on snow blowers much, but I do work on cars. So I am used to taking pictures and tagging/cataloging parts as I disassemble. Even so I had to disassemble and reassemble one additional time. Those tensioner springs all look alike!
 

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I’ll explore every avenue to get this thing right.
  1. Track leveling to fix the first 5mm difference in the tractor measurements: loosening (NOT REMOVAL) of the track tension nuts, track plate bolts, etc. If the left side is higher than the right, adjustments are made to the right, and vice-versa.
  2. Auger housing adjustment after tractor is level: loosen 10 bolts (2 on top, 2 on bottom, 3 on each side) holding auger housing to tractor. Adjust as level as possible and then re-tighten bolts.
  3. Adjust scraper bar to be perfectly level and re-tighten. Set it down onto a yardstick or other spacer, then set the skids flush on the floor and re-tighten.
What is it that I’m adjusting on the track and track plate? Which bolts?
Loosen the track plate bolts #23... And, if necessary, the track tension nuts #17 & #18.
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I havent run into this problem very much. The only time is when the machine has fallen or been tipped over in an accident.
Also if the bed has been taking apart and not squared up before tightening on reassembly. I have made this mistake myself when rebuilding a right side tranny when that side of engine bed has to be removed. It gets cocked when I also remove the belly plates. What is a sure sign is when installing the bottom plates and the holes for the bolts do not line up.

Hope you get this done.
 

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  1. Track leveling to fix the first 5mm difference in the tractor measurements: loosening (NOT REMOVAL) of the track, track plate, etc. If the left side is higher than the right, adjustments are made to the right, and vice-versa.
  2. Auger housing adjustment after tractor is level: loosen 10 bolts (2 on top, 2 on bottom, 3 on each side) holding auger housing to tractor. Adjust as level as possible and then re-tighten bolts.
  3. Adjust scraper bar to be perfectly level and re-tighten. Set it down onto a yardstick or other spacer, then set the skids flush on the floor and re-tighten.

Loosen the track plate bolts #23... And, if necessary, the track tension nuts #17 & #18.
View attachment 183255
Thank you! I’ll get to it this weekend, and report back with my results.
 

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I havent run into this problem very much. The only time is when the machine has fallen or been tipped over in an accident.
Also if the bed has been taking apart and not squared up before tightening on reassembly. I have made this mistake myself when rebuilding a right side tranny when that side of engine bed has to be removed. It gets cocked when I also remove the belly plates. What is a sure sign is when installing the bottom plates and the holes for the bolts do not line up.

Hope you get this done.
I appreciate all the info from you and @tabora
I hope it’s not bent, but I’ll find a way to bend it back if it is. It doesn’t have any dents or dings in it, though, so I don’t think that‘s it.
 

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I have done the adjustments as well as I can. I’m still about 15mm off, though, and it feels like I‘m more or less where I was as far as the adjustments to the skid shoes and scraper bar.

I’ve set it up with the same amount of load/weight on the skid shoes, so it tracks straight, and doesn’t pull hard to the right.

Could I alleviate some of the pull by installing a set of poly skid shoes on the sides of the bucket? Would it slide better, and possibly make it so I could level the bucket out a little more?
 

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I have done the adjustments as well as I can. I’m still about 15mm off, though, and it feels like I‘m more or less where I was as far as the adjustments to the skid shoes and scraper bar.
So, let's take it one step at a time; were you able to get the 5mm difference in the tractor height corrected?
 
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I have done the adjustments as well as I can. I’m still about 15mm off, though, and it feels like I‘m more or less where I was as far as the adjustments to the skid shoes and scraper bar.

I’ve set it up with the same amount of load/weight on the skid shoes, so it tracks straight, and doesn’t pull hard to the right.

Could I alleviate some of the pull by installing a set of poly skid shoes on the sides of the bucket? Would it slide better, and possibly make it so I could level the bucket out a little more?
15mm is about 5/8". If that is as far as you can go, you might try the poly skids. You should be using poly skids (or better yet rollers) anyway, though from what I read about the tracked machines, they hold the auger up off the ground so that you can blow snow off uneven driveways. Using the machine this way, the auger is suspended above grade and the skids don't touch down at all. If your drive is smooth, then by all means go uhmwpe (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene).
 
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