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I doubt any Honda dealer a couple years ago would have installed a larger main jet under warranty. Especially a year or more ago. Have you removed the pilot jet and cleaned it yet? If not,

It sounds like fuel contamination... You should never store it with a partial full gas tank. Full or empty. And the carb should be drained of fuel unless you are using E0 gas. I’d argue only empty is the right move for something that sits idle for 5-6 months at a time.
 

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and apparently drilled out my idle jet
The pilot jet is plastic and you can't drill it without ruining it. If it was drilled, replace it and the O-ring, it's running rich. It's about $11.

Depending on serial number,

03599204-ZE0-0450JET SET, PILOT (#45)19570149999999

03599204-ZE2-0450JET SET, PILOT (#45)10000019999999
 
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Discussion Starter #23
I only ever run Shell 91, so e0 is exactly what I run.

They installed a 108 or 110 main jet, at my expense.

I'm going to dig out the invoice but I'm not sure if it was the pilot jet or idle jet or if that's the same thing?

2 or 3 jets in the carb? Main jet, and idle/pilot jet are the same thing? Or separate and 3 jets total?

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the pilot jet or idle jet
...
idle/pilot jet are the same thing?
Yes, same thing, idle=pilot. Honda calls it the Pilot Jet. Some other brands call it the idle jet. Takes about a minute to replace it, but then you'll need to set the idle speed again. It's on top of the carb, #35. Also refer to the GX Carburetor Check Sheet.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Ok. So this all started before the larger main jet went in, so that's not part of the issue.

It's backfiring while surging, so too rich? Not too lean right?

Does the pilot jet provide only the fuel, or does it provide mixed air/fuel?

If only gas goes through the jets, the jet isn't the issue, it's something in the air intake path correct?

If the pilot jet provided mixed air/fuel, it could be the pilot jet, or the air passages from the intake box thought the carb, to the pilot jet?

So change my pilot jet and rubber o ring. If that doesn't fix it, remove the complete carb assembly and clean it and especially pay attention to the air passages in the carb?

The pilot jet looks like it's quick to change, it has the plastic stopper on top, and is under that rubber vent hose?

Again, thanks for everyone's input.

Stupid question, does the choke only restrict air intake? Or does it restrict fuel at the same time?

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Your Pilot Jet and air/fuel flow questions are all answered in the GX Carburetor Check Sheet link back in post #24. As you can see in the flow diagram, some air mixes with the fuel at the jets, but the majority of the air flow goes straight through the venturi throat, creating a vacuum that draws the fuel mixtures from the two jets into the flow.
Stupid question, does the choke only restrict air intake? Or does it restrict fuel at the same time?
A Choke is also called an Enrichener. An engine is basically an air pump, and the choke reduces the air flow, causing the overall mixture to be richer in fuel. The fuel flow is also somewhat reduced, but not nearly as much as the air flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Sorry must have missed the carb check sheet.

Just checked it out. Looks like there is in fact 3 jets?

The pilot screw (1) looks like it is a jet?

Then the pilot jet (2)

And the main jet (4)

Pilot screw is a plastic jet, pilot jet is metal, main jet is metal?

Pilot screw I know I can get at easily.

For the pilot and main jet, do you guys get at them without removing the carb? Remove the bowl and get at them from underneath? Or should I just remove the whole carb and go at it?

Thx

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Looks like there is in fact 3 jets?
The pilot screw (1) looks like it is a jet?
Then the pilot jet (2)
And the main jet (4)
Pilot screw is a plastic jet, pilot jet is metal, main jet is metal?
Pilot screw I know I can get at easily.
NO. Pilot screw is a SCREW. It interacts with the pilot jet (plastic). It sets the idle mixture.
 

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I just read this for the first time.

Since the surge lessens when you choke, there might be an air leak. But it's not so likely unless the shop that you paid for the jet change just did nothing and handed back your machine. In that case what you are calling a backfire is a lean pop.

Confirming or denying the air leak could be a pretty quick check though. Check that the bolts that hold the carburetor to the engine are tight, Not Hulk tight just good and tight.
If they are ok (likely) you may have a piece of debris in your carburetor or something sticking to cause wrong movements between connected links.

I am comfortable with carburetors but they can be daunting.

Since you are feeling handy, I'd recommend go through that carb check sheet.


Here is a gasket kit Honda 16010ZE2A20 Gasket Set - Jacks Small Engines, Use original equipment.



To disassemble your carb for a full internal cleaning.
Take pictures of the linkages and wires. Turn off the fuel supply, and drain the fuel using the angled screw under the bowl. Don't disturb the governor, just use a little hook or pick to carefully and gently remove the links from the governor.
On some carburetors I have had to unbolt the carb to turn it in such a way as to remove angle links without bending them. Remove the carb and take it to a clean spot to take it apart.
Those ultrasonic cleaners are terrific. Just don't use solvents on rubber parts.

If there are any welch plugs they are kind of a pain to deal with, I'd leave them be at first. If the result does not change then I'd remove them for further cleaning.

Someone somewhere can give you the starting points for where to set your jetting screws after reassembly. Think someone even posted it in an earlier thread.
Steve's Small Engine Saloon has a really good video on how to find the Sweet spot on carb setup.

If you aren't comfortable with fixing it yourself, or if you don't want to spend the time, the carb I looked up was $108 plus shipping. But there are 6 different HSS1332 versions in the lookup so you'd have to verify. I looked in jackssmallengines.com.
I grabbed the carb part number from the first blower on the list and googled it. None at ebay right now, but it is February, high season.

Or, find a small engine place near you to do the repair. That blower is too fine a piece of gear to leave unrepaired.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I just read this for the first time.

Since the surge lessens when you choke, there might be an air leak. But it's not so likely unless the shop that you paid for the jet change just did nothing and handed back your machine. In that case what you are calling a backfire is a lean pop.

Confirming or denying the air leak could be a pretty quick check though. Check that the bolts that hold the carburetor to the engine are tight, Not Hulk tight just good and tight.
If they are ok (likely) you may have a piece of debris in your carburetor or something sticking to cause wrong movements between connected links.
It started surging before I took it to the dealer. Someone here suggested a mouse nest in the air box, and sure enough there was.

After that, the surging continued, so I took it to the dealer for warranty. They couldn't reproduce the surging in the warmer weather before the snow season started.

I figured at the same time it was in, I'd buy a larger main jet and have them install it. I had to pay them to do this.

This is very good info. I'm leaning towards debris from the mouse nest getting sucked into the carb and that's the issue.

Dealer swore my carb was nice and clean when they did the main jet swap. Maybe they just didn't look into it enough to realize there's crap in the air path of the carb?

Thx

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Discussion Starter #32
I was trying to attach this image the other day. Why would my valve cover be black like this?


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You may be getting some oil residue from the breather vent hose or gasket? Is the dark area oily?

Could be dirt or the finish of the metal cover is oxidized from age and salt residue?

I would give that machine a bath and wipe down this spring when you are doing your annual maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Looks like exhaust to me.

Anyways, here's a good update on my situation.

Just installed the new spark plug. Surging is ALMOST 0 with the choke pushed all the way in. It's still surging ever so slightly at full speed idle sitting there not moving with the choke fully pushed in!! When I mean slightly I mean the avg person probably wouldn't even realize it wasn't quite idling perfect.

However, when I start moving, it surges. Nowhere near as bad as before. Just when moving around or blowing very little snow, 2-3"

Surging stops almost completely again if I stop moving and let it idle at full speed.

If I put load on the engine, there's 0 surging.

Also installed a cheap tach at the same time. Full speed idle rpm hovers around 3400-3450. Seems a little low? Should I increase it to 3600rpm as the engine is spec'd for 3600rpm?? Or leave it alone?

Under HEAVY load (blowing snow 4" deeper than the bucket hahaha) the rpm drops to 3200, if I push it a little harder and go faster, down to 2900rpm but performance is still amazing.

Should I up the rpm to 36 or leave it be?

I'm thinking there's a bit of a clog still in the air path from the mouse nest, or is this pretty normal now?

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I don't know about newer ones but the older Honda GXs I worked on had a cap soldered on the idle mixture screw so it couldn't come out to be cleaned without melting the solder to remove the cap that limited the amount you can turn it.

I'd be looking into getting that out and cleaning it and checking the gaskets between the engine and carb.

Since you've never worked on a carb I would consider a cheap replacement carb at least to compare things to. New carb, new spark plug, new gaskets for carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
It sounds like you STILL have not cleaned the pilot jet....
No, I have not removed the carb or even the pilot jet. Had time to frig with it a bit this morning, so did spark plug and tach.

I'm going to pull the pilot jet one morning soon to check it.

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Sorry must have missed the carb check sheet.

Just checked it out. Looks like there is in fact 3 jets?

The pilot screw (1) looks like it is a jet?

Then the pilot jet (2)

And the main jet (4)

Pilot screw is a plastic jet, pilot jet is metal, main jet is metal?

Pilot screw I know I can get at easily.

For the pilot and main jet, do you guys get at them without removing the carb? Remove the bowl and get at them from underneath? Or should I just remove the whole carb and go at it?

Thx

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Im not knocking your abilities but with the lack of knowledge that you have shown(not a bad thing), mixed with possibly improper tools and a go get it done mentality can lead to some disastrous results. I'm well experienced and knowledgeable about Carbs/machines and have made some hasty decisions and ruined a couple of otherwise repairable carbs.
Im not saying dont do it, but take your time, take plenty of pictures along the way to reference for reassembly if needed.

As for machine/fuel storage, Always have the tank FULL and stabilized because you will have condensation(water) to form in the tank and rust metal tanks and settle to the bottom and the water will be the first thing to enter the carb and settle in the bowl.
You leave the tank with little fuel it will turn to varnish that much faster.
 

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I was trying to attach this image the other day. Why would my valve cover be black like this?


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How old is this machine?? By the looks of it you store this outside? That little picture make me fearful of what the rest of the engine/machine looks like.
 
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