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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Husqvarna 10527STE snowblower in which I'm at a complete loss in regards to why it won't stay engaged while in drive. When under load of just 4" of snow, it won't stay engaged at all. I changed the drive friction rubber ring, drive / auger belts along with a new traction idler spring & bias spring to boot. In addition, I thoroughly lubricated metal parts including the steering assemblies. I thought for sure it was the rubber friction ring after seeing it was worn. The new rubber friction ring is making great contact against the drive wheel assembly therefore, I can't believe that's the issue. As for the belts & springs, they really didn't need changing but, I had the parts and did so anyway. The following video shows the power steering assembly disengaging / engaging which is happening on both sides simultaneously on its own without touching the steering triggers. Any thoughts for a remedy would sincerely appreciated. Thanks
See Problem Here
 

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I have had my 10530SBE since 2006 and have never seen that before. Did you have this problem before changing the two springs? They could be the wrong ones. Did you touch the steering assembly at all or the cables?

Can you take the wheels off and take pictures of the steering assemblies with the covers off? Something might be missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have had my 10530SBE since 2006 and have never seen that before. Did you have this problem before changing the two springs?
Yes

Can you take the wheels off and take pictures of the steering assemblies with the covers off? Something might be missing.
Thanks for the heIp... I took a look at the power steering mechanism gears without removing them with a bright light on both sides. They all appear good with no rounded corners (See video link below of one side). I proceeded by removing both steering cables from the steering mechanism. I gave that a try with no luck, with it repeating the same as it did in the first video. I re-installed the cables, once again no luck. I had the belt cover off and didn't see any signs of the belt slipping. All the drive gears look good, friction wheel moves easily when shifting along with great firm contact when engaged. I may take apart the entire power steering mechanism on both sides for further inspection if I can figure out how. Thanks again. Ray
Steering Mechanism & Drive Gears
 

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Can you take a picture straight on where that small spring connects to the bracket that the cable attaches to. I can't see where that spring attaches on both ends.

Have you tried pulling the trigger to see if the gears disengage and stay disengaged while pulling trigger. Then release trigger and the gears should re-engage. Engine off.

What is your exact model # and year?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks for help..... In a Service Manual for my Husqvarna (link below) the first thing I noticed was the return spring being stretched. On mine, the right side was correctly attached but, I repositioned it like the left side as in my picture below (relaxed). Now they're both wrong.....LOL. I felt that it wasn't attached properly due to riding on top of the cable bracket and not in the hole with the rod. I never touched or changed any of those springs other than greasing during maintenance. Must have been that way from the factory, I never noticed it before. I'd like to add, the right side always did seem to be better when it came to engaging. Yes, the left side barely misses contact with the trigger fully engaged.
I also found it hard to believe that the Steering Lever Pins ride freely without a cotter pin. I had those jump out a couple times over the years.
I took the following picture yesterday when I took the video. I'll get back into it today and reattach those springs correctly and test. I surely hope that's the issue since they don't even have any tension on them.
I'll let you know later on today if this was a fix. Thank You for all your time in helping me out, I sincerely appreciate it! Ray
Year: 2004
Model: 10527STE
Service Manual
My Users Manual:

Current position on both sides (relaxed) - I'll be changing it at the arrow position.
Machine tool Wood Gas Automotive tire Engineering




From the Service Manual Pg. 34: Lower horizontal bracket is a little different than mine. I'm assuming the lower attachment is correct on mine. We'll see.....
White Gas Scientific instrument Machine Cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks again for all your help. I repositioned the PS cable spring but, it didn't help. The lower attachment point is different than mine that's in the service manual. I created another video with more detail below showing further checking / tests. The left side seems to be the worst when actually operating the snowblower. The weird thing is that the left side has a much stiffer spring within the steering mechanism than the right side. I would think the power steering would have a lessor chance of disengaging..... The right side spring feels like it's 50% less. Please view the following video.... Maybe, you'll see the problem. Right now it looks like I need a new left side PS cable and new axle bearings. Even though the axle has up/down play, I wouldn't think it would cause the issue I'm experiencing. I would sincerely appreciate it. Thank You. Ray

Pt. 1 Husqvarna Snow Blower 10527STE Power Steering - Drive Problem
 

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Yeah, those springs are what I was wondering about. Couldn't get a good look at it in your video. Your's is a little different than mine. My machine is a 2006. Seems like they have made a few changes over the years. Never had a problem with my machine. Maybe they finally figured it out.

Here is a picture from 2014, when I was beginning my restoration tear down. A damaged worm gear that I couldn't find a replacement for, got this process started. A blessing in disguise since the rust was getting bad. I inherited the machine from my parents since they couldn't handle it anymore (elderly) plus they were complaining it didn't work well anymore either
.
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I don't think there is anything wrong with the steering triggers and the gears engaging/disengaging. You do need to adjust the side where the gears still make a little contact when the trigger is pulled.

So when the machine is running just sitting there still, those brackets don't move back and forth constantly? Only after you engage the drive lever to move forward?

I'm just not seeing what is wrong. First time seeing this and have never heard of this problem.

You said you replaced two springs when you replaced the drive friction rubber ring? Did this problem exist before that repair? Maybe the new springs are wrong? What did you take apart to replace the drive friction rubber ring? Maybe something went back together wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Yeah, those springs are what I was wondering about. Couldn't get a good look at it in your video. Your's is a little different than mine. My machine is a 2006. Seems like they have made a few changes over the years. Never had a problem with my machine. Maybe they finally figured it out.

Here is a picture from 2014, when I was beginning my restoration tear down. A damaged worm gear that I couldn't find a replacement for, got this process started. A blessing in disguise since the rust was getting bad. I inherited the machine from my parents since they couldn't handle it anymore (elderly) plus they were complaining it didn't work well anymore either
.
View attachment 207338
Thanks again for your help! I see that they changed the power steering cable bracket on yours giving it a dedicated hole for the spring. That is a much better design due to mine falling into the same hole as the cable. That alone would give it more tension when triggering it. Thanks again and for posting the picture! Every little thing helps. Ray
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I don't think there is anything wrong with the steering triggers and the gears engaging/disengaging. You do need to adjust the side where the gears still make a little contact when the trigger is pulled.
The left side on mine free wheels but, makes a little contact when the trigger is engaged. I also removed both L/R cables and tested but, it didn't help when giving it a running test. I did however, bend the PS cable up slightly which helped with the clearance of not making contact during free wheeling. Other than that cable being a little stretched, there isn't any other adjustment that can be made other than adding a thrust washer between the c-clip and retaining ring per service manual pg 26 Here. I checked the gap in which it will just accept a thrust washer as a shim. I disassembled both L/R sides of the power steering assemblies, cleaned and relubricated them and the axle and tested.... Unfortunately, no luck. All the teeth on the gears looked great.

So when the machine is running just sitting there still, those brackets don't move back and forth constantly?
No movement at all.

Only after you engage the drive lever to move forward? Correct.

I'm just not seeing what is wrong. First time seeing this and have never heard of this problem.
That makes the two of us.... It's really strange to say the least.

You said you replaced two springs when you replaced the drive friction rubber ring?
Yes. I thought since I'm changing out the friction wheel rubber, I might as well change out the two springs. Simply due to being 18 years old.

Did this problem exist before that repair? Yes. The problem started the fist time this year when I was snowblowing after I was running it for about 20 minutes. I have never disassembled anything prior this over the years. All I have done is clean, lubricate, oil change and empty the fuel. Engine starts 95% of the time on the first pull.

Maybe the new springs are wrong? Exactly the same o.e.m. Upon installation, I matched them up just in case.

What did you take apart to replace the drive friction rubber ring? I followed the two following video's which is on an identical snowblower as mine but, Craftsman. Everything is very straight forward. In addition, "I always" take photo's and video and right down the steps I perform. In addition, YouTube! & Forums! 😊
DIY - Drive Ring Repair On Craftsman Snowblower


HOW TO REPLACE THE BELTS ON YOUR SNOWBLOWER - Craftsman, Husqvarna, Poulan

Maybe something went back together wrong?
Everything Easy Peasy.... Straight forward.

I took more video over the past couple days in which I'll get out hopefully later today if not tomorrow. I was able to take some running jacked up video on a couple 4x4's and underneath as I was giving it a test run. 😱 Also you'll see a difference on each side of the drive axle in regards to length. I ordered two axle bearings, two clutch slide springs and a couple thrust washers pg 33 Here due here by Tuesday. At the end of the day during a test run..... the problem remains, unfortunately. 🤔🤨 Thanks again for your help and thoughts along with hanging in there with me. I appreciate it!
 

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maybe #25 in the diagram ( the spring) has lost it’s tension and doesn’t have enough force to kept the dogs apart. I had the same problem with my craftsman.
Hooke’s Law in physics deals with spring elongation and the spring constant. Perhaps it could be something to check out with that spring if you can replace it or even exchange the parts from right side to the left and vice versa. Worth a try…
 

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View attachment 207364
maybe #25 in the diagram ( the spring) has lost it’s tension and doesn’t have enough force to kept the dogs apart. I had the same problem with my craftsman.
Hooke’s Law in physics deals with spring elongation and the spring constant. Perhaps it could be something to check out with that spring if you can replace it or even exchange the parts from right side to the left and vice versa. Worth a try…
Bicycle part Gas Auto part Machine Cylinder
Bicycle part Gas Auto part Machine Cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
View attachment 207364
maybe #25 in the diagram ( the spring) has lost it’s tension and doesn’t have enough force to kept the dogs apart. I had the same problem with my craftsman.
Hooke’s Law in physics deals with spring elongation and the spring constant. Perhaps it could be something to check out with that spring if you can replace it or even exchange the parts from right side to the left and vice versa. Worth a try…
Thanks for the help & pic's. I ordered two of those springs and two axle bearings this past Wednesday. Parts will be here by Tuesday. Hopefully, it will do the trick.... Quite puzzeling for sure. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Good, let us know how the repair goes. I haven't completed mine yet and will be interested to know if you succeed. Your videos help lots.
Cheers View attachment 207382
View attachment 207381
Thank You and you're very welcome! I'll be putting out another video tonight or tomorrow. My parts will be here by Tuesday.🤞 I will continue reporting any progress and / or other information until we get a fix. Please, keep us informed as well on yours. Thanks for the help. 👍🙂
 

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Check out this discussion
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
First, Thanks to both of you for all your help!! The following Pt. 2 YT video has some more tests including good running closeups along with some odd measurements I found along the way. My parts are supposed to be here tomorrow such as; drive shaft bearings, clutch slide springs and a couple thrust washers. All the other parts don't appear to be worn. I can't imagine anything else that will get this snowblower up and running properly other than those parts. I'll report back here after I get everything installed, lubricated & tested. I've also included Pt 1 below as well. Thanks again!! 👍😊
Pt. 1 Husqvarna Snow Blower 10527STE Power Steering - Drive Problem

Pt. 2 Husqvarna Snow Blower 10527STE Power Steering - Drive Problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Check out this discussion
Thanks for the link!! That's quite an article. Lubricate.... Lubricate....... Is a must on these snowblowers. I usually use white lithium grease, graphite dry lubricant and anti-seeze. I wonder how forum member Houptee made out? His PS is identical to mine as well.... Thanks again, everything helps. 👍😊
 

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Great video and explanation.
I was going to order a new set of springs this week and will hold off until you get a resolution to the issue in case I need more parts ordered.
I noticed that you have the spring #25 positioned behind #26 in the diagram, closer to the frame, or is that just the way it looks in the video. ——looking at around the 4:40 mark of the video.. if the spring was on top of the splined piece , it would tension to push outward. Maybe,, I am not an engineer but that the
set up for the craftsman shown in my photo, the spring is resting over the splined piece. This allows it to push out on #24 to keep the doggs engaged. There is also a groove ( lip) in # 26 which is suited for the spring to rest in which I don’t see on your splined piece so there is a different setup..

keep us posted
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Great video and explanation.
I was going to order a new set of springs this week and will hold off until you get a resolution to the issue in case I need more parts ordered.
I noticed that you have the spring #25 positioned behind #26 in the diagram, closer to the frame, or is that just the way it looks in the video. ——looking at around the 4:40 mark of the video.. if the spring was on top of the splined piece , it would tension to push outward. Maybe,, I am not an engineer but that the
set up for the craftsman shown in my photo, the spring is resting over the splined piece. This allows it to push out on #24 to keep the doggs engaged. There is also a groove ( lip) in # 26 which is suited for the spring to rest in which I don’t see on your splined piece so there is a different setup..

keep us posted
Thanks for the help! It just looks the way. If you take a look at TM3:57 you'll see part of the spring coming off of part #24 which has the groove for the spring. The spring then goes over the spline on part #26 and rests against the wide rear portion of it. You're right, upon looking at the other angles, especially 4:40 it does indeed look like it's misplaced.....LOL. I would have thought the same thing looking at it as well. Looking closer, you can see there is pressure on part #24 when pushing & releasing. I should have had the spring rotated some in order for it to be seen over the spline of part #26. Thanks for all your help and taking the time to view the video..... We'll get our blower's up and running one way or the other. Last resort would be to remove the entire PS assemblies and muscle the turns. 🤦😱 I'll definitely report back as soon as I get those parts installed and tested. Thanks again!

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