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How do I get the auger shaft out after removing pulley. Trying to replace bent impeller. Any help would be greatly appreciated

There are a lot of ways, and sometimes you have to use a combination of all of them - unless you get lucky.


An acetylene torch with a rosebud tip to break the rust, then a big hammer/sledge.


Dripping PB Blaster through the shaft for maybe a week, and then the same hammer/sledge.


An 8-ton or so, bearing press.


You may want to look for some YouTube videos with different methods.


It is not gonna be fun, nor easy. Take your time, and say some prayers.
 

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All bolts I believe have been taken out and seems to be loose. Just will not allow shaft to move forward past the back of the bucket. No idea why it is not sliding out. The only thing I see left is the
Little pin that was in front of she shear bolts of the impeller
 

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Looks like the bearing had some rust. Maybe it is rusted to the bucket. Try some PB Blaster around that, and then give it some "gentle taps" trying not to bugger up any threads or mushroom the end.
 

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Does anyone know how to replace the impeller after removing the augers from the bucket? I was able to get the shaft out of the bucket, but now the impeller will not slide back off the shaft since there is a small lip behind it. Has anyone taken an impeller off completely?

Sadly this is another another case of a bent impeller on the ST224. It's frustrating that the sheer pins didn't let go before the impeller and belt
 

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Does anyone know how to replace the impeller after removing the augers from the bucket? I was able to get the shaft out of the bucket, but now the impeller will not slide back off the shaft since there is a small lip behind it. Has anyone taken an impeller off completely?

Sadly this is another another case of a bent impeller on the ST224. It's frustrating that the sheer pins didn't let go before the impeller and belt

Sounds like it may be rusted to the shaft - which may be why the sheer pin is not doing its job. I would hit it with a wire brush, and some sandpaper, and maybe even a file if that doesn't work. Then, some PB Blaster, and a BFH to persuade it to move.
 

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Does anyone know how to replace the impeller after removing the augers from the bucket? I was able to get the shaft out of the bucket, but now the impeller will not slide back off the shaft since there is a small lip behind it. Has anyone taken an impeller off completely?

Sadly this is another another case of a bent impeller on the ST224. It's frustrating that the sheer pins didn't let go before the impeller and belt
I've taken them off several times due to rock-related injuries to the impeller.

As far as I know, the little ridge develops over time and is not a design feature. I just persuade the impeller past the ridge with a mallet, and then sand, file, or grind the ridge off before installing the new impeller.

I've also persuaded impellers off shafts by holding the impeller horizontally with the rear side facing down, and gently tapping the rear end of the shaft against the cement floor of my basement; then removing the ridge before installing the new impeller.

It's never taken a whole lot of effort to remove the impeller. Possibly the problem is more rust-related than ridge-related in your case? Penetrating oil may be your friend.

You make a good point about the shear bolts not shearing. I wonder if maybe using only one on the impeller might be a workaround.

Richard
 

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I have asked a couple questions in other threads, but at the suggestion of another user, I'm starting a new one with my specific question. The impeller in my Husqvarna ST227P (bought new last year) bent and now it rubs on a bolt and makes a terrible noise when engaged. I can see where it bent, but I just can't get to it. My thought is if I can remove the shaft and then the impeller I should be able to bend it back, or replace it. The thing is I can't figure out how to remove it. I found the parts diagram but I can't figure out how to remove the auger pulley. It has a nut on and it's called a "pulley screw on" so I figured I could unscrew it from the shaft but it won't budge. I didn't force it (yet) because I wasn't sure if I was missing something. The only YouTube video I can find only shows how to replace a belt. Very helpful, in general, but not with my specific issue. I also tried to remove the augers and remove the impeller that way by sliding it off the front after removing the shear pins, but there's some sort of pin on the shaft so I can't remove it.
It's very frustrating because I'm almost to where I need to be, but not quite. And I feel like I'm missing something very simple. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
the nut is actually welded to the pulley, and they use a red loctite on it. so when you try to remove the pulley it is almost impossible to remove by hand,i took mine to a john dealer had them remove with an impact gun! Then i i heated the loctite inside of the nut, when still warm i used a steel bore brush and got all the loctite residue out of the nut before i put it back on. Do this so you do not ruin the threads when putting it back on!
 

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these older models sound difficult. I just took a look at a new husqvarna and it has the pulley held on with a bolt, 10000 times easier to take off and service everything.
 

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I have also repaired a few Husqvarna and Poulan late models. I think they have found the limit to how light they can build them. They get twisted up pretty easy. Also, the key for the pulley is press formed in a collar that is then welded to the pulley. The key shears off pretty easy. The last time I checked, the pulley is nla. A buddy took the sheared pulley home and broached in a new keyway, so normal key stock could be used.
 

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Joined the bent impeller party on my 227P, a rock got in there good, nothing sheared, but it bent one of the tines enough that it became a rapid fire bolt remover. Parts are on order from a place down in Miami (where it never snows, go figure). I'd already ordered a few parts but didn't realize how bad the impeller was bent until I dug into it today so I had to go back for more. At least the replacement parts are inexpensive.


Main problem I have is that I clear part of my (dirt) road with it and never adjusted the feet, so occasionally it'll pull in a rock and the rest is history. Once I get it back together I'll be adjusting those things and hopefully will avoid a repeat!
 

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the nut is actually welded to the pulley, and they use a red loctite on it. so when you try to remove the pulley it is almost impossible to remove by hand,i took mine to a john dealer had them remove with an impact gun! Then i i heated the loctite inside of the nut, when still warm i used a steel bore brush and got all the loctite residue out of the nut before i put it back on. Do this so you do not ruin the threads when putting it back on!
I also have a bent impeller. I have been working on getting the pulley off for hours now. The pipe wrench on the shaft keeps that from spinning but I'm afraid to use any more force than I have been. I have tried heating the pulley nut with a torch but it looks like soft alu and I haven't gone red hot. Am I just being too gentle? I'm getting pissed. (angry not drunk)
 

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Just swapped the impeller out today, hardest part was getting that pulley off. In my case, I jammed a small 1x4 into the impeller through the chute opening, wedging it nicely, and then used a 1/2" drive 15/16's socket on a breaker bar to fight it off. It took a LOT more force than I expected, but then after removing I saw all the red threadlocker they used. Eventually it turned easier and came off.


As for getting the shaft out of the machine, I removed the bearing retainers on either side of the auger housing, unbolted the auger from the bearing so that the augers were floating in the housing. I placed it open-side down, put that 1x4 on the rear of the shaft and gave it a good whack with a hand sledge. Popped right out.


Someone else here posted about a small ridge that keeps the impeller from being able to slide right off, they were right. I used a small file to even it out and slip it off.


I also put the entire machine in my living room because my garage isn't heated. Helped greatly. :)
 

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Sigh. And out of that picture, what caught my eye was the Nintendo zapper light gun, presumably nicely paired up with a CRT TV, so it can actually work :) Cool!

I wish modern consoles could still work with a light gun, that's a game genre that's sort of disappeared. Maybe the VR systems will make that kinda happen somehow.
 

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Sigh. And out of that picture, what caught my eye was the Nintendo zapper light gun, presumably nicely paired up with a CRT TV, so it can actually work :) Cool!

I wish modern consoles could still work with a light gun, that's a game genre that's sort of disappeared. Maybe the VR systems will make that kinda happen somehow.

Yup, and I always keep a spare CRT on hand in case that one dies. SNES to the left and my Genesis is behind it. Even if I could play Duck Hunt in VR, it wouldn't be the same. :)
 

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Nope, last one had an issue with me rebuilding a 550cc motorcycle engine in the kitchen. :grin:
Yeah, females are like that. For a while there I did have a Yamaha XS650 stored over the winter in my living room. But I was single then, now my wife complains about R/C model airplanes in the dining room.
 

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How about why is the impeller bending? My ST224 second time bending the impeller, when it happens the engine is stalled out. Where is the protection from the shear pins. If there is enough force to stall the engine and bend the impeller fins I think the pins should shear. Cost me $300 last year at the shop. Called Husqvarna maybe a warranty issue.
 

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Same problem.This is good. But for my ST230P, I just stuck a wonder bar between the impeller blade and the chute housing. The nut and the pulley wheel are fused. They don't separate like the parts diagram implies. However, I'm unable to get the impeller off of the shaft - The gear box, even after disassembling it, prevents on the one end. And, a flared edge/lip on the end where it goes into the bearing prevents sliding off of that end. Seems like the gearing needs to slide off the shaft (as that end appears tapered)? Has anyone been into this situation? Seems like a terrible design.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNUer4SaGDdJMctO5gg12e_hrPe0z0aoZiAWm9g
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNU5EvRWwxSU6Ifnw2KtsdjFfXJsf3I
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMLMgN1TLatDasGP7ZLRG9M7-AmSFZp4QLJu-7qMKbY2gRY
 
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