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Discussion Starter #1
I came across the upgrade and it seemed simple enough...of course nothing is simple when it comes to me doing anything.

Here is the link of the bridge rectifier I purchased...

http://m.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-High-Current-50A-1000V-Metal-Case-Full-Bridge-Rectifier-KBPC5010-US-Seller-/251483712332?hash=item3a8d98eb4c:g:43cAAOxyjxlTLlWr&_trkparms=pageci%3A817dcc9b-ae0a-11e6-b932-74dbd1808a2e%7Cparentrq%3A7aafaaaa1580a356d435c8d9fff3d3b7%7Ciid%3A21

Here is the link to the LED Pods I purchased...

http://m.ebay.com/itm/2X-3inch-24W-Cree-LED-Flood-Cube-Work-Lights-Driving-Pods-Off-road-Atv-Ute-Lamp-/281994307484?hash=item41a82ba79c:g:tO0AAOSw8gVX92dq&_trkparms=pageci%3Acfd22394-ae0a-11e6-b479-74dbd18027d6%7Cparentrq%3A7ab1abf21580a2ab9231617efff52970%7Ciid%3A1

Here is the snowblower they are mounted on...

It is an 8/26 and if came already with a full headlight on it



Here is just a wiring shot...PLEASE DON'T CRITICIZE the wires not butt connected together. Once I have the wiring figured out I will solder the wires and heat shrink them.



MY ISSUE...

At first I wanted to hook up all 3 just because...both LED Pods and the one halogen light.

That didn't work so I cut out the halogen light and just wired the two LED lights. I got the one on the right to work but not the one on the left. Snowblower ran out of gas...got it running again and now both don't work.

I have a test light with a voltmeter built into it and it's reading 8.xxV is that possible? How and dear god why me? Is there something I am missing. Electrical work is not my forte. I am thinking of just selling these and getting a small light bar? Just abandon the idea...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Wiring...I tapped the wire coming off the stator for AC POSTIVE IN

Green wire is AC NEGATIVE GROUND...

Red is wired into a Y configuration...coming out of bridge rectifier and splits to each LED pod

Black is wired into Y just like the red is.
 

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Do you know what the output capacity of your stator on the blower is? You have two 24 watt LED units. My single lamp craftsman machine has an 18 watt capacity stator, to run the original light that came with it.

Before you connected the lights, did you put your volt meter on the DC output of the rectifier while the engine is running full speed to see what voltage you are getting out?

Also, can't see much on how the rectifier is wired up, but the AC terminals are diagonal from each other as are the DC terminals. Are those connected right? See picture which I will try and attach and hope comes out right.
 

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Check to see if there is a diode installed in the output wire from your stator, which would in effect turn that output into a half wave DC signal, not suitable to connect to the bridge rectifier. My Briggs stator is like that, don't know what the Tecumseh stators are like. I tapped the stator wire BEFORE the diode to get my heaters running, and put in a switch to go from lights to heaters, one or the other, not both because I dont have enough stator capacity to run everything either.

8 volts is pretty low, won't be enough to run two lights. Is that reading with the lights connected? If so , sounds like you are overloading the stator current capacity and dragging the voltage below usable levels. You also probably need a proper AC/DC voltmeter to get a proper reading. You want to read the voltage at the lamps on the DC range, and the power into the rectifier at the AC terminals on the AC range.

Try running only one and see if that works OK. You also might want to add a couple of capacitors across the DC output terminals to smooth out the DC ripple and maintain the voltage during low points in the generation cycle.
 

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it is a small cylindrical component, looks like a resistor. Probably 1/2 inch long, 3/16" diameter. They vary in appearance quite a bit, depending on rating, manufacturer, configuration etc. Google diode, then click images and you can see what the common styles look like.

On my unit, it was just soldered onto the end of the wire coming from the stator coil, then hey stuck another piece of wire on the other end of the diode, with a plugin connector on it to connect to the light harness. They covered the diode and the connection on each end of it with heat shrink tubing to keep it safe from water.

Have you looked up your engine parts list to see what kind of stator is on there? You might find the answers there rather than freezing fingers etc.
 

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The purpose of the diode is that it will only allow flow one direction and not the other. Be sure to have it oriented correctly.....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My engine is a HMSk80.

I did as you said and disconnected both lights. I tried powering one with no luck. I was able to power the OEM dull light through the rectifier.

Just boggles my mind how I was able to power one at first and than none all of a sudden. Either way I appreciate everyone's help. I will wire the stock light in and try it on another blower I have.

White 13/33
Ariens 11/28
Craftsman 9/26
MTD 10.5/28
Older craftsman 8/26

Just thought since this was kinda new it would work.
 

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Can you please dumb that down for me.
LED's always have to have a resistor wired in with them, otherwise they will blow out.
the size of the resistor needed depends on the LED, how many LED's, and the source voltage.

Most ready-to-run LED "light units" already have the resistors wired in, but if you are doing a DIY project with "loose" LED's, you will need resistors too.

Scot
 

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You could hook them up to your car battery for a quick test of the lights to be sure they are still good.......
 

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Specs on those eBay lights are input =10-30 volts DC. So the 8vdc you are feeding them are probably not enough.
 
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