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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all,
Toro 1128OXE new fall 2005, 83 hours on the meter. I do all my own maintenance on this machine.

The impeller bearing was shot as there was alot of play in the shaft and noise from the impeller scraping on the housing. I figured that if I opened it up to replace the bearing I would also install a kit in it while I was in there.


There are many ways the machine can be opened up for access but here is the methods I used (note some pictures may be slightly out of sequence):

I started by removing the chute. Remove chute stick control cover and slide back


Mark location of cable then loosen the pinch bolt and remove the cable



Im not a tool hog but my old ratcheting box wrenches came in handy here




Once disconnected the chute just lifts off

 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Unbolt the chute control rod from the control


Remove the pulley cover, pulley/belt guard, and disconnect the impeller/auger drive belt from the engine pulley


Disconnect the impeller pulley brake retract spring (I should have just removed the entire brake assembly here as it needed to come out later)


Remove the lower side cover


There are three large bolts on either side that hold the impeller/auger housing to the rest of the frame. The middle ones on both sides go into slotted holes and dont need to be completely removed. Again, stainless bolts intalled 10 years ago came right out (ratcheting box wrenches help here too)




The back half of the machine will not stay upright on its own so I just rested it against my wheel barrow

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
To access the impeller bearing the impeller/auger drive pulley must be removed. I had read some real horror stories about removing these things.



Start by loosening the two set screws. Not much working or sight room.


I dont have any 8 point sockets so I had to improvise using a method I saw on a youtube video. Yes thats a 5/16 open end wrench in a vice grip



With the sets screws loosened the pulley would not budge (no big surprise) so I improvised again using some recommendations I found on the internet - use a puller which required two holes to be drilled in the pulley


I did alot of automotive engine rebuilding in my younger days but hadnt used this thing in years


The shaft protector on my puller was too big for the shaft so I just used a small socket


And the dam thing came right off - no theatrics or even any cussing
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
At this point I decided to remove the impeller housing upper cover. Stainless bolts installed 10 years ago came right off




Housing upper cover

First look in with cover removed
 

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thats kind of disappointing that the bearing only lasted 83 hours, considering both of my ariens are still using what i assume to be the original bearings, and they are 40+ years old. does this toro using a bearing or does this toro use a bearing or a bushing?
 

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So, Toro had its impeller area plastic cover "anti clogging" system back in 2005...? I thought it was something much newer.:smiley-confused009:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The three impeller bearing retaining bolts are carriage head bolts and are buried behind the impeller. These bolts/nuts have never been replaced


Since I am going to replace them I needed to move the impeller out of the way. A broken record here - but the stainless bolts I previously installed for the impeller shear bolts came right out allowing the impeller to slide forward on the shaft allowing ample room to remove the bearing retaining bolts


The shaft woodruff key and thrust washer must be removed


The extent of the wear on the bearing is visible even before I removed the bearing


All bearing retaining bolts removed


And this is what came out. What a mess. Its hard to believe but the unit was actually working and throwing snow the last time I used it





Thankfully the shaft where the bearing rides was in very good shape
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
New impeller bearing and flanges reading to be installed with new stainless bolts



Installed on shaft


And bolted down with new stainless bolts and locknuts

 

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You do know that a 12 pt socket works for taking off those square bolts. as long as the socket set. is not bought off a truck on the side of the road. that also sells dogs playing poker wall rugs. along with a few other things that I will not get into here.:icon_whistling::icon_whistling::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k:
 

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That is the same bearing set up that the POWERSHIFTS run. I still have to look into a sealed roller bearing replacement. the next time I change 1 of those out. but then again that might just be sometime in the next century.:wavetowel2::wavetowel2:
 

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Stick a fork in that baby!!!! it is toast. did you put in 5/16 by 1/2 long stainless steel carriage bolts and nuts????????? better replace that bolt holding up that post. that looks like it will be going next.:eek:k::eek:k::eek:k:
 

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thanks for the write up and pic's paul
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I purchased an impeller kit for a three blade impeller on ebay. It comes with pre-drilled rubber pieces, steel backing plates, and hardware but I am going to use - what else - stainless hardware.

The kit is 'universal' and the rubber needs to be cut to fit each application. I took alot of measurements and made a template. For this application the rubber pieces will only use two mounting holes


Rubber cut to size. You need to make sure the location of the mounting holes is such that the mounting hardware does not interfere with the bracing on the back of the impeller blades


This is the way the rubber was in the kit and how I needed to cut it


Using my template I center punched for the holes


And started with a small drill bit. I used a series of bits to open the holes for the 5/16 bolts I was going to use. I double checked the rubber pieces for alignment before opening the holes all the way


You can see the block of wood I used to hold the impeller in place while I drilled the holes


As I said I did not use the backing plates that came in the kit as they are plain (mild) steel so I used stainless fender washers over the rubber



I used the same processes on the other two impeller blades. I set the blades so that they were as close to the inside of the housing as possible but still allow the impeller to turn freely
 

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You could have used a old flapper paddle from a ss. more than likely a hardware store would have given it to you. because they trash bin them anyway. juts tossing that 1 out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Basically re-assembly is the reverse of the disassembly. Any non-stainless hardware not replaced previously was replaced with stainless

I replaced the square head set screws on the pulley with socket head cap screws



I filed any small burrs off the woodruff key and re-installed it in the shaft keyway. I coated the shaft, key, and the inside of the pulley hub with anti-sieze


The pulley slid right on about halfway and just needed a few gentle taps with a hammer and a block of wood to seat it the rest of the way




Tightening the new set screws was much easier


Finally ready to re-assemble the impeller/auger housing to the frame. With the center bolts installed the housing lifts up to get the pulley over the lower frame lip and the bolts align with the slots in the frame. I thought I may have trouble doing this alone but it was actually pretty easy


In one piece again
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I found getting the belt back on was easier if I removed the brake (which I should have done earlier)



Re-install the brake, covers, and chute



Replaced the spark plug for good measure (.030 gap)


Ready for a few more years


Hope this is helpful
Paul
 

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That 1 works for the old school TORO'S. but I do not know about anything after them.:facepalm_zpsdj194qh:facepalm_zpsdj194qh
 

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I put a cast iron flanged grease able ball bearing in my Sears/Murray.Just had to add a spacer to make up for the extended inner race on the original bearing. Should outlast the blower, and me.
Sid
 

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Nice write-up & pics. Well done.

If you ever have it apart again you might consider having some of that bucket rust chemically neutralized and/or media blasted and then coated with something like pick-up truck bedliner spray and a coat of Rustoleum on top of that.
 
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