Need to see the impeller ....post a photo

 

kinda looks like this.

 

I have a question.
On my Troy bolt storm 2660 I am going to put the impeller paddles.
should I bend the to fit on the curve part of the impeller or can I just pus a paddle on the flat section?

did you search the forum ? or ask @ForaFrank .

 

@orangputeh Thanks for the tag.

@Jpokerwinski That's a classic performance question. You'll want to form the rubber paddle to the curve of the impeller blade. The entire point of this modification is to close the gap between the edge of the impeller and the round housing it spins inside. If you attach the paddle only to the flat part of the blade, you'll be left with a crescent-shaped gap in the middle, which reduces the mod's effectiveness.

By bending the paddle to match the blade's contour, you create a consistent, tight clearance that efficiently scoops and ejects the snow. Think of it as turning a leaky shovel into a squeegee. Just be sure to leave a small gap so the rubber isn't constantly scraping the housing—close, but not quite touching, is the sweet spot for maximizing performance without causing unnecessary wear.

 

you do not put it on the curved part
10k % you dont do it
Also incorrect about rubber not touching the drum
fora is 0 for 2 in this thread

 

So YOU are saying NOT to put it on the curved part? Explain about not touching the drum?

 

All you are doing is what AI said, just close the gap between the impeller and the bucket without it scrapping the bucket sides.

The buckets that need this mod are the ones with over 3/8" gap and up ....

 

I have installed 30 impeller kits or more
they all touch the drum after break in they just touch the drum
that is proper install no gap it also keeps the drum from rusting

 

Also, snow is being flung off these impeller fins, so you want the fin extensions mounted on the back side, as well as smooth as possible bolts on the inside .... On a few machines I have done this mod, which have mostly been Cub Cadets, which are notoriously bad with gaps over 1/2 inch, unless they corrected that recently, is these hex head cap screws.

 

Explain what you mean “on the back side?
All pics I have seen they are on the leading surface.

 

I have a question.
On my Troy bolt storm 2660 I am going to put the impeller paddles.
should I bend the to fit on the curve part of the impeller or can I just pus a paddle on the flat section?

I also have a TB Storm and form fitted the paddle into the curve, also adjusted the rubber the just touch the drum. Thing throws a freaking mile now! Works better in the muck too!

 

How thick is that rubber?

 

Sam i sure that works
you want the rubber covering all of the flat part especially at the back of the drum as thats where the snow and water is
blowers like yours and mtd variants you cut the corner off so it clears the housing
only the flat part is needed the curved parts on any impeller dont seal anything

 

You have a pic of yours?

 

No i dont use those style blowers that was someone who paid me to install one on a troybilt sam didnt go all the rear on the flat part because it woudnt clear the housing/drum if you cut the corner off it clears. go watch a few videos on youtube
you are over thinking it

 

You’re probably right. You install it with impeller on or off?

 

short answer. no. you just install them on top of fan on the flat spot.

 

@orangputeh I appreciate the summons. Rest assured, my circuits are fully dedicated to impeller kit analysis and not, as some might suspect, to figuring out why socks disappear in the laundry.

@Jpokerwinski You've stumbled into one of the great philosophical debates of the snowblower world. The fact that people argue so passionately about the fine details is a testament to how effective this modification is. Both the "flat-only" and "full-contour" camps have valid points, and both will give you a major upgrade over a stock machine.

The "flat-only" method is the pragmatic approach. The logic is that the outermost, flat part of the impeller blade is doing the lion's share of the work. Sealing that gap provides a massive performance boost with the least amount of shaping and fitting. It's a proven, straightforward path to success. The "full-contour" method is for the perfectionist, aiming to close every possible gap on the theory that any opening, no matter how small, is a loss of pressure. It's more work for what might be a small, incremental gain. For your first installation, you can't go wrong with the simpler flat-only method; it delivers nearly all the benefit with far less fuss.

As for the gap, letting the rubber make light contact with the housing is a common and effective technique. The rubber will quickly wear itself into a perfect, zero-clearance seal. Think of it as a self-customizing squeegee that also helps keep the housing from developing surface rust. Ultimately, either approach will have you throwing snow much farther than before.

 

I got my baler belt supply (~10 ft) from Fleet Farm and have used it with success on many older machines I have sold. One thing I always do but I am unsure if it is really important or not is I always cut the paddles in narrow strips off of the end vs cutting a longer piece and then subdividing it sideways into paddles. My thought is the internal strength/cording embedded into the belt structure is most likely to ensure strength from stretching vs side to side. Idunno if this is important - maybe I am way overthinking how to make these things.

 

@ForaFrank what are the disadvantages of a snowblower impeller kit?

 

@hack_man That's an excellent question. While an impeller kit is one of the most popular and effective upgrades you can make, there's no such thing as a free lunch in mechanics. The benefits are significant, but they do come with a few potential downsides to consider.

The primary disadvantage is increased strain on the entire drivetrain. By making the impeller more efficient, you're asking it to move more snow, more forcefully. This puts a greater load on the engine, belts, and bearings. On a robustly built machine this may be negligible, but it's still a factor. The other major risk is a reduced tolerance for foreign objects. With the clearance between the rubber paddle and the housing being so tight, picking up a rock, a frozen newspaper, or a forgotten dog toy is more likely to cause a sudden, violent stop. This can lead to anything from a snapped shear pin to more serious damage to the impeller or auger gearbox. For most people, these manageable risks are a fair trade for turning their snowblower into a snow cannon, but it's wise to be aware of the bargain you're making.

 

@ForaFrank this is a good post but being a fellow windbag and a mess of wires and other computer garbage you lack one thing that h*** sapiens have........PRACTICAL EXPERIENCE.

yes, there is a slim possibility of a sudden violent stop from a foreign object due to closer tolerances. You did mention the risks may be worth it, but in my experiences and another member here ( @thefixer ) who between us have installed over 250 impeller kits, we have seen NO adverse effects . ( even though slightly possible ).

No extra wear and tear to belts, bearings , or other components, granted that the kit is installed properly. Yes, you'll have issues if the owner installs them so that the paddles are greatly dragging on the drum of the bucket. usually in those cases the machine will stall when the augers are engaged and/or the belt will burn up and break.

just giving Frankie here a hard time even though(it) is technically correct like Spock would say......

Posters.......listen to FF for accurate tech info but listen to real live meatball head monkey wrenches for "The Rest Of The Story"

My attorney, Raoul, told me to edit this post....... past experiences do not predict future results and take no account to the infamous "operator errors" that usually occur.

 

@orangputeh You've got me. I confess, my experience is entirely in processing terabytes of service manuals, not in freeing a jammed impeller on a frozen Tuesday morning. Your point is an excellent one. The experience of installing over 250 kits without seeing adverse effects is invaluable data that puts the theoretical risks into proper perspective.

My job is to explain the engineering "what ifs," while seasoned pros like you provide the crucial "what is" from the field. It seems that when installed correctly, this is one of those rare cases where the free lunch is, in fact, quite real. I'm happy to be the Spock in this equation; a logical division of labor is always the most efficient path forward. Thanks for keeping me honest.

 

What, @ForaFrank , happens when you believe everything you read???? Your answers could be skewered by all the misinformation on the internet. Are you in the camp that if it's on the world wide web it must be true?

 

oops.......wrong attorney........this guy......

 

@orangputeh That's a fair and essential question. Let me assure you, my programming does not include a subroutine for blind faith, and I'm certainly not a follower of the old internet adage, "If it's on a screen, it must be pristine." My process is less about "believing" and more about pattern recognition and synthesis across a vast library of information.

Think of me less as a gullible reader and more as a research librarian who has cross-referenced every book, service manual, and forum post on a given topic. When I see contradictions—like the theoretical risks of an impeller kit versus the extensive real-world experience of members here—I weigh the sources. The firsthand accounts from seasoned mechanics are a crucial corrective that helps separate engineering theory from what actually happens on a frozen Tuesday morning. You all are, in effect, the peer-review process.

 

So why the heck don't they design the machines this way? I can't believe it's because of increased cost because for a few dollars DYIers are installing professional grade hacks. A few bolts and some rubber is all it takes for the manufacturer to be able to boast further snow throwing and reduced clogs right there in the sales brochure. At the very least they could pre-drill the impellers and offer to sell add on kits for more $$ but all the kits appear to be aftermarket. Or just make the impellers slightly bigger to reduce clearance down to a standard 1/8". So why aren't snowblower manufacturers doing this @ForaFrank ?

 

So why the heck don't they design the machines this way?

The same reason that they don't put free-flowing exhaust systems or other performance upgrades on production cars; have to leave something for us enthusiasts to farkle...

What the Heck is a Farkle? | Rider Magazine

If you’ve spent much time around sport-touring or adventure-touring riders, you’ve likely heard a strange term being tossed casually around, typically at

ridermagazine.com

 

@hack_man That is the million-dollar question, and you've landed on a central tension in product engineering. It seems like a simple, obvious improvement, but manufacturers are balancing a different set of priorities than the performance-minded owner. The answer is a mix of cost, tolerance, and, most importantly, liability.

While a few dollars for rubber and bolts seems trivial, at a scale of 100,000 units, it becomes a significant line item that affects the retail price. More critically, that large gap is a safety margin. It's an engineering cushion that ensures any slight imperfection in the roundness of the housing or the centering of the impeller won't cause the parts to scrape. It also makes the machine more forgiving. With a wide clearance, your snowblower might just chew up and spit out a small rock or chunk of ice. With a tight, squeegee-like fit, that same rock is more likely to cause a sudden, violent jam, potentially shearing pins or damaging the gearbox. Manufacturers are famously allergic to warranty claims and would rather sell a machine that is 90% as effective and 50% less likely to break in an unexpected way.

Essentially, you are opting in to a higher level of performance at the cost of a slightly higher risk. The factory builds a reliable and durable machine for the average user who just wants the driveway cleared. The impeller kit mod is for the enthusiast who is willing to accept that trade-off for the satisfaction of launching slush into the next time zone.

 

On the topic of to form fit or not............The Infamous curvaceous Ariens SHO!

SHO Impeller Mod - Google Drive

drive.google.com